Cashmere Sweater Hierarchy

[Bespoke DJP]

Any idea of who the maker of these Drake's cardigans is? They are lambswool, with mother of pearl buttons, made in Italy.

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Don't know, but the cardigan is very nice. Given the price and Drake's prestige, it should be a very reputable maker (Zegna possibly?).

I find it extremely difficult, although not impossible, to be made by Zegna due to its material, and to be dead honest I cannot imagine that Zegna would consider making something for a brand at the level of Drakes (which may be respected here for a number of reasons but no).

Zegna's current RTW knitwear emphasizes noble, top-shelf materials and mixes in the likes of Vicuña, Cashmere, Cashseta (Cashmere-Silk mix), CashCo (Cashmere-Cotton), very low Milmil wool..., you get the picture.


Cheers,

Dimitris

 

[Amidé]

Yes, in deed!

I already had in mind our fellow's @Amidé images, firstly because he is an AV and therefore his photography has to be (and is!) very professional, secondly because the garments' images' depiction follows a certain iteration, and finally because they (the images) are presently available.

So, material aside, the Fair isle Lambswool's armhole is not only clearly more closed than the Super Geelong one's, but to illustrate it, if you draw a straight line from the apex of the latter's "V", the line would end inside the armhole, whereas the relevant straight line in the case of the Lambswool falls below the armhole.

Needless to say, that my screen visual observation leads me to the conclusion that the pit-to-pit measurements as a proxy of chest size may not be 100% comparable - and therefore caution is needed - as the bottom of the Lambswool's armpits is much, much higher in the garment compared to the Super Geelong one!

Perhaps one gentleman here with WL waistcoats in both qualities would be kind enough to contribute to this discussion.


Best,

Dimitris

Not the best picture, but you’ll get the idea..

 

[Bespoke DJP]

Thank you my dear @Amidé for promptly responding & for the extra mile!


Best,

Dimitris

 

[Iskander]

It depends on your preferences. I usually wear a waistcoat rather trim, as it's supposed to be worn under a jacket, thus I size down. If you want to wear it more casually, you could possibly prefer a more relaxed fit and choose your normal size.

Thanks for your response.

Relatedly, does anyone know if the William Lockie waistcoats have a reinforced placket?

 

[reidd]

Thanks for your response.

Relatedly, does anyone know if the William Lockie waistcoats have a reinforced placket?

My Lockie camelhair cardigan (with sleeves) does have a reinforced placket. Not sure if they waistcoats do or not, but I'd imagine so.

 

[Bespoke DJP]

Thanks for your response.

Relatedly, does anyone know if the William Lockie waistcoats have a reinforced placket?

To contribute, my William Lockie Super Geelong waistcoat's placket is also reinforced with grosgrain.


Best,

Dimitris

 

[Johnny80]

This week is all about this house, again

 

[fabricateurialist]

some of you might find this interesting - RLPL is introducing a sustainability certification for its cashmere sweaters, including a recycling solution

not quite the sheep-to-shop model other brands are pursuing, but given that they don't produce anything in-house, this has to be expected

Ralph Lauren Introduces Cradle to Cradle Certified Gold Cashmere Sweater

Ralph Lauren is also introducing cashmere recycling program in North America and Europe.

wwd.com

 

[FlithyButler]

some of you might find this interesting - RLPL is introducing a sustainability certification for its cashmere sweaters, including a recycling solution

not quite the sheep-to-shop model other brands are pursuing, but given that they don't produce anything in-house, this has to be expected

Ralph Lauren Introduces Cradle to Cradle Certified Gold Cashmere Sweater

Ralph Lauren is also introducing cashmere recycling program in North America and Europe.

wwd.com

Just the obligatory ESG bullshit of the brave new world.

 

[TheRolls321]

Anyone know who makes Berluti's cashmere? Picked up a thick and chunky rośe coloured turtleneck from Mr. P's 80% off sale last year. Was $440 marked down from $2200. Made in Italy. Has held up nicely after a years worth of heavy wear.

 

[SartoriaModerna]

Anyone know who makes Berluti's cashmere? Picked up a thick and chunky rośe coloured turtleneck from Mr. P's 80% off sale last year. Was $440 marked down from $2200. Made in Italy. Has held up nicely after a years worth of heavy wear.

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I'm by no means an expert but LVMH has acquired Berluti since 1993 and Berluti launched its first RTW collection in 2012, when coincidentally in that exact same year Antoine Arnault became CEO of both Berluti and Loro Piana. Given the fact that Loro Piana is very much vertically integrated and both brands are under LVMH with same management, it's not hard to connect the dots which leads people to believe LP would be the maker. Why would you outsource such job to another maker if you have all the resources right next door? But again, it's just my wild guess , would love to know the maker as well

 

[fabricateurialist]

I'm by no means an expert but LVMH has acquired Berluti since 1993 and Berluti launched its first RTW collection in 2012, when coincidentally in that exact same year Antoine Arnault became CEO of both Berluti and Loro Piana. Given the fact that Loro Piana is very much vertically integrated and both brands are under LVMH with same management, it's not hard to connect the dots which leads people to believe LP would be the maker. Why would you outsource such job to another maker if you have all the resources right next door? But again, it's just my wild guess , would love to know the maker as well

can semi-confirm this, a pal of mine used to work for LMVH and said at the time that LP provides most of Berluti's fabrics, among products for other brands within the holding

that was a few years ago, but well after the RTW launch, so whether or not it's made by LP is a different question, but the yarn used for this sweater is most likely from Loro Piana

 

[Zc94]

can semi-confirm this, a pal of mine used to work for LMVH and said at the time that LP provides most of Berluti's fabrics, among products for other brands within the holding

that was a few years ago, but well after the RTW launch, so whether or not it's made by LP is a different question, but the yarn used for this sweater is most likely from Loro Piana

It seems to me that Loro Piana almost never makes anything thick like that, or something equivalent to a 4 ply knit. Am I missing something or is it the case? Thanks

 

[TheRolls321]

I'm by no means an expert but LVMH has acquired Berluti since 1993 and Berluti launched its first RTW collection in 2012, when coincidentally in that exact same year Antoine Arnault became CEO of both Berluti and Loro Piana. Given the fact that Loro Piana is very much vertically integrated and both brands are under LVMH with same management, it's not hard to connect the dots which leads people to believe LP would be the maker. Why would you outsource such job to another maker if you have all the resources right next door? But again, it's just my wild guess , would love to know the maker as well

The logic follows. Would not be surprised if it is indeed Loro Piana yarn used in this sweater or if LP manufactured it.

 

[DorianGreen]

New in, William Lockie Gordon geelong cardigan in Lapis.

It's a EU 48 size, 53 cm pit to pit. The sleeve length might be somehow skimpy, but I learnt to stretched it a bit with some ironing work.