• Hi, I am the owner and main administrator of Styleforum. If you find the forum useful and fun, please help support it by buying through the posted links on the forum. Our main, very popular sales thread, where the latest and best sales are listed, are posted HERE

    Purchases made through some of our links earns a commission for the forum and allows us to do the work of maintaining and improving it. Finally, thanks for being a part of this community. We realize that there are many choices today on the internet, and we have all of you to thank for making Styleforum the foremost destination for discussions of menswear.
  • This site contains affiliate links for which Styleforum may be compensated.
  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

    Styleforum is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. Please support us by using them. You may learn more here.

Cashmere Sweater Hierarchy

DorianGreen

Distinguished Member
Joined
Sep 7, 2022
Messages
4,783
Reaction score
6,143
So the 2% polyamide, 1% elastane in this Bottega Veneta jumper is just “cost-cutting”?

View attachment 1861072 View attachment 1861073 Extremely tight knitting, by the way. No light shines through.
of course, every 2% means around 12-15% less expensive to the final customer, for the maker is a cost reduction at scale
But the feels remains at that composition, i dont know why is it that way, because you dont loose the benefits or draws of an 100% cashmere but you also dont get the benefits of an 70% cashmere with 30% synthetic.

These small additions of synthetic fibres make no sense to me, as they don't really cut costs. It's more a trend in my opinion: as I already said in another thread, even Loro Piana add some elastane in their jacketing fabrics.

I totally refuse this foolishness.
 
Last edited:

DorianGreen

Distinguished Member
Joined
Sep 7, 2022
Messages
4,783
Reaction score
6,143
A few years after Ballantyne went into receivership and destroyed their equipment, I found a stash of original Ballantyne in Buenos Aires. That stash plus some from the Berk brick and mortar are still in heavy rotation and represent the last of my Ballantyne.

What a great loss! We'll probably never experience a better cashmere than old Ballantyne's.

Enjoy it and take care of it!
 
Last edited:

Bespoke DJP

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 14, 2015
Messages
999
Reaction score
762
A few years after Ballantyne went into receivership and destroyed their equipment, I found a stash of original Ballantyne in Buenos Aires. That stash plus some from the Berk brick and mortar are still in heavy rotation and represent the last of my Ballantyne.


It has fun, hasn't it?

Not only do we relentlessly try to find vintage cloth of our liking for our bespoke commissions (please see: The Unfunded Liabilities & Ongoing Bespoke Projects Threads), but also of knitwear grails around the world!

Now that I became aware - thanks to you gentlemen - of Ballantyne, it's official: I would call myself treasure hunter!


Best to all,

Dimitris
 

Johnny80

Senior Member
Joined
May 2, 2021
Messages
559
Reaction score
460
It has fun, hasn't it?

Not only do we relentlessly try to find vintage cloth of our liking for our bespoke commissions (please see: The Unfunded Liabilities & Ongoing Bespoke Projects Threads), but also of knitwear grails around the world!

Now that I became aware - thanks to you gentlemen - of Ballantyne, it's official: I would call myself treasure hunter!


Best to all,

Dimitris
For your treasure hunt you must search and add Colombo 100% yangir knit or coat
 

Bespoke DJP

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 14, 2015
Messages
999
Reaction score
762
For your treasure hunt you must search and add Colombo 100% Yangir knit or coat


Well noted, dear sir!

However, please, let me enjoy the shift of my knitwear preference - from Italian to Scottish - for a moment or so, and we shall see about it! After all, It took me couple of decades to decide it and act accordingly, so this has to be taken into consideration as well!


Best,

Dimitris
 

DorianGreen

Distinguished Member
Joined
Sep 7, 2022
Messages
4,783
Reaction score
6,143
Well noted, dear sir!

However, please, let me enjoy the shift of my knitwear preference - from Italian to Scottish - for a moment or so, and we shall see about it! After all, It took me couple of decades to decide it and act accordingly, so this has to be taken into consideration as well!


Best,

Dimitris

I understand you, Scottish cashmere has this mythical aura. I also tend to prefer it, but, objectively seen, despite some senseless play with synthetic fibres, Italian cashmere has nothing to envy at the moment. On the contrary I think that Italian mills have achieved a certain supremacy over their Scottish counterparts, as quality of fibres, style, variety and craftsmanship. On the other hand I see signs of awakening in Scotland, and this competition is obviously a very good thing for us consumers.
 
Last edited:

Bespoke DJP

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 14, 2015
Messages
999
Reaction score
762
I understand you, Scottish cashmere has this mythical aura. I also tend to prefer it, but, objectively seen, despite some senseless play with synthetic fibres, Italian cashmere has nothing to envy at the moment. On the contrary I think that Italian mills have achieved a certain supremacy over their Scottish counterparts, as quality of fibres, style, variety and craftsmanship. On the other hand I see signs of awakening in Scotland, and this competition is obviously a very good thing for us consumers.


I very much agree on all counts!


Best,

Dimitris
 
Last edited:

fabricateurialist

Senior Member
Joined
May 12, 2022
Messages
257
Reaction score
205
For your treasure hunt you must search and add Colombo 100% yangir knit or coat

I coincidentally came about these last 2.5m of Yangir cloth

 

DorianGreen

Distinguished Member
Joined
Sep 7, 2022
Messages
4,783
Reaction score
6,143
One of my treasures.

20221127_113344.jpg
20221127_113527.jpg
20221127_113545.jpg
20221127_113354.jpg


A NOS cashmere jumper from the defunct Peter Scott, bought some years ago in a Roman shop. I would say it's the same quality as Ballantyne, very thick and tightly knit, really amazing.
It's a 42 size, 52 cm pit to pit.
 

DorianGreen

Distinguished Member
Joined
Sep 7, 2022
Messages
4,783
Reaction score
6,143
I coincidentally came about these last 2.5m of Yangir cloth


Here another contribution: https://www.lussuosissimo.com/non-solo-cashmere-ecco-le-fibre-piu-preziose-al-mondo/
 

HotDilf

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 25, 2022
Messages
83
Reaction score
297
Cashmere Diaries No. 1

Today while putting on my William Lockie I discovered, to my pleasant surprise, that not only the armpit seams are reinforced, but they also hand reinforced the turn cuff seams and the seams at the bottom ribbed hem - for a total of six (6) spots. To me, this kind of hand work and attention to detail is what makes a knitwear piece truly "worth it", and what makes them last.
F39587CA-17F6-459F-A6FD-F16EC6BA30BC.jpeg

On the contrary, the Berk I got my from my father does not have these reinforcements.
5EB6DC09-F1D1-4518-AB96-BE8CFE997D8C.jpeg

Other than WL, Only Loro Piana, Fioroni and Chanel (Barrie) have this feature. Colombo does not.
D769B35F-3844-4F0E-926C-EDFEDC235C84.jpeg 643A9AA3-A8E6-4EC2-B37B-CD40BB7C33B8.jpeg CF357D04-BBEA-47C1-8620-4D22BC19AD3B.jpeg
 

msimon

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 16, 2022
Messages
237
Reaction score
148
Cashmere Diaries No. 1

Today while putting on my William Lockie I discovered, to my pleasant surprise, that not only the armpit seams are reinforced, but they also hand reinforced the turn cuff seams and the seams at the bottom ribbed hem - for a total of six (6) spots. To me, this kind of hand work and attention to detail is what makes a knitwear piece truly "worth it", and what makes them last.
View attachment 1861722

On the contrary, the Berk I got my from my father does not have these reinforcements.
View attachment 1861723

Other than WL, Only Loro Piana, Fioroni and Chanel (Barrie) have this feature. Colombo does not.
View attachment 1861725 View attachment 1861726 View attachment 1861727
can confirm this on geelong and camel aswell. I assume all there knitwear is the same.
 

Featured Sponsor

How important is full vs half canvas to you for heavier sport jackets?

  • Definitely full canvas only

    Votes: 85 37.3%
  • Half canvas is fine

    Votes: 87 38.2%
  • Really don't care

    Votes: 24 10.5%
  • Depends on fabric

    Votes: 36 15.8%
  • Depends on price

    Votes: 36 15.8%

Forum statistics

Threads
506,483
Messages
10,589,823
Members
224,252
Latest member
ColoradoLawyer
Top