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Cashmere Sweater Hierarchy

Nobilis Animus

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I don't think the concept of "best" has much meaning in terms of style and fashion. Style is about aesthetics, feeling, emotion, culture, identity, etc. This concept of "the best" is for collectors.

In a very normative sense, there are some things that are better made than others. But this pursuit of the "best" is a very collector-type mentality, as you're seeking the best in some class. Frankly, I've only seen it come up in this era of internet fashion. In the '90s, I only heard of people talking about fashion and style in terms of culture, aesthetics, emotion, identity, etc.

This is like people who are more interested in kitchen knives than cooking.

One of my favorite lines from Bruce Boyer, I think in his book Elegance, is that style is still an art and hasn't yet descended to the sciences.

I believe that's true as well, but I just define the metaphor a little differently.

The way I see it, style and elegance are a personal expression - one's style is a reflection of taste and personality, and when that is in accord with the clothing, it's 'the best.'

So it's more like using the best materials for a work of art, rather than what kind of art is better. First someone has to know themselves, and then they will know how they want to present themselves to the world. And after that, it's simply a matter of finding varying levels of quality, colour, etc. The important thing is still the style, ultimately.
 

Phileas Fogg

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@dieworkwear was lamenting the discussion of pilling as an example of the devolution of this thread. And now we’re getting some haughty theoretical discussion of aesthetics and quality.
 

Nobilis Animus

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@dieworkwear was lamenting the discussion of pilling as an example of the devolution of this thread. And now we’re getting some haughty theoretical discussion of aesthetics and quality.

No more than drawing the line between the two. I think we can meaningfully discuss and differentiate the quality between sweaters and materials without subjecting it to the same standards by which we judge clothing style itself.

If a cashmere sweater fits better, lasts longer, dyes better, keeps you warmer, and is more comfortable and luxurious than all the rest, then it's simply a better sweater. The trouble is finding something that measures up - and most fall far short of that. But we can still have a standard.
 

ZRH1

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may I ask advice about a bespoke cashmere throw? I have been quoted around 3'000 GBP for a 6-ply throw in 180x255cm. Thank you.
 

Panama

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may I ask advice about a bespoke cashmere throw? I have been quoted around 3'000 GBP for a 6-ply throw in 180x255cm. Thank you.
I would go for Vicuña at that price..
 

Panama

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Is vicuña any better or is it just rarer-er...hypothetical question as I can’t afford vicuna ?
Both.The best fibre is the Tibetan Antelope. However this is an endangered species. Red Deer from New Zealand is probably the next rare fibre. There is the Siberian Ibex, but I haven't seen any items produced at all in the fibre.
 

Panama

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Both.The best fibre is the Tibetan Antelope. However this is an endangered species. Red Deer from New Zealand is probably the next rare fibre. There is the Siberian Ibex, but I haven't seen any items produced at all in the fibre.
Lanificio Luigi Colombo produce Yangir wool from the Siberian Ibex. I have just found two scarves in Yangir.
 

Phileas Fogg

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Is vicuña any better or is it just rarer-er...hypothetical question as I can’t afford vicuna ?

Vicuna live well above 10,000 feet elevation. Also, they are not an animal easily herded and so the the harvesting of the wool is rather difficult. Each animal also only produces 1/2 kg of wool per year.

Whether that makes the exorbitant cost worth it, I don’t know. A vicuña coat at Loro Piana will cost you well over $20k. Certainly out of my price range for such an item.
 

Panama

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Vicuna live well above 10,000 feet elevation. Also, they are not an animal easily herded and so the the harvesting of the wool is rather difficult. Each animal also only produces 1/2 kg of wool per year.

Whether that makes the exorbitant cost worth it, I don’t know. A vicuña coat at Loro Piana will cost you well over $20k. Certainly out of my price range for such an item.
Johnstons of Elgin have a scarf I can afford :cool:
 

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How important is full vs half canvas to you for heavier sport jackets?

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