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Cashmere Sweater Hierarchy

DorianGreen

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As it happens I have the answer my dear fellow; they are indeed made by William Lockie and the difference in fineness is present because it is supposed to be as such.

Let me elaborate a bit. After the discussion with our fellow @BMC, I followed the link that he posted which is found here below and I carefully read what it is written.


After that, I emailed A-Hume to seek more information on the matter and clarifications because the key phrase and I quote is: “William Lockie now call their classic lambswool sweaters “Geelong Lambswool”, and they confirmed that this is exactly the case.

In other words, in whichever WL garment the label states Geelong Lambswool (as your Harvest Gold waistcoat and our fellow's crewnecks), the garments are in reality exactly like the old 100% New Lambswool ones, only now re-labeled. They come from the Geelong breed all right, but they are not Super Geelong (first clip, 19.5μ, finer gauge), hence the difference that you've just experienced. Therefore, my past phrase addressed to @BMC that there is no difference between Geelong and Super Geelong, they're exactly the same, does not hold true.


Best,

Dimitris
Very interesting, thanks!
 

Bespoke DJP

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Very interesting, thanks!

You are welcome!

Since I had this piece of solid information, it went without saying that it would be useful for everyone to be posted here, and you did offer me the appropriate opportunity!

The orange Super Geelong waistcoat looks very nice, was your first photo more indicative of its color IRL?

At any rate, these waistcoats are exquisite, either "super" or not, and as a matter of fact I find myself fancying a waistcoat in dark-colored fairisle, although my understanding is that they are offered only in the 100% New / Geelong Lambswool quality.


Best,

Dimitris
 

DorianGreen

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You are welcome!

Since I had this piece of solid information, it went without saying that it would be useful for everyone to be posted here, and you did offer me the appropriate opportunity!

The orange Super Geelong waistcoat looks very nice, was your first photo more indicative of its color IRL?

At any rate, these waistcoats are exquisite, either "super" or not, and as a matter of fact I find myself fancying a waistcoat in dark-colored fairisle, although my understanding is that they are offered only in the 100% New / Geelong Lambswool quality.


Best,

Dimitris
I would say, something in the middle. The photos on the website are pretty faithful. I suppose it's the colour called Furnace.
 

DorianGreen

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Spier & Mackay offers a vee-neck jumper in a style similar to that of Rubato, inspired by vintage Holliwood style, as they say. Made in merino wool, at a price of $118,00 they could be interesting. They don't say where the knit is made.

Screenshot (144).png
Screenshot (145).png
Screenshot (146).png
 

Johnny80

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wEstSidE

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Refreshing my clothes, so I ordered a bunch of inxpensive cashmere from Yoox. Here's what I've got:
  • Kangra
  • Felippo de laurentiis - tneck and crewneck, both marked "brit cashmere" made in italy
  • Ballantyne - 2 different intarsia crewnecks, just says "made in italy"
  • Drumohr
  • Malo
What photos or info, if anything, can I post that would help the experts here figure out where they stack up? I'm satisfied with all of them and yoox return policy is basically freerolling, just wanna give a chance for people in the future to know what to look for.
 

DorianGreen

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Careful on how this is made, the base V neck in time can broke like a spider. I need to see the inside but careful, check the return policy.
Thank you for having warned me, but I don't want to buy the jumper. It's just a suggestion for those who want to try that style, but are not willing to pay the prices of Rubato.
 

philosophe

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Refreshing my clothes, so I ordered a bunch of inxpensive cashmere from Yoox. Here's what I've got:
  • Kangra
  • Felippo de laurentiis - tneck and crewneck, both marked "brit cashmere" made in italy
  • Ballantyne - 2 different intarsia crewnecks, just says "made in italy"
  • Drumohr
  • Malo
What photos or info, if anything, can I post that would help the experts here figure out where they stack up? I'm satisfied with all of them and yoox return policy is basically freerolling, just wanna give a chance for people in the future to know what to look for.
I have some Drumohr and Malo pieces I love. I'm not familiar with Kangra or FdL. What are they like? Ballantyne, to my mind, used to better.
 

wEstSidE

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the ballantynes I have are new production, nothing like the vintage ones posted here.
I don't think I can say much of value since I haven't tried all the stuff people post here. I can say that felippo de laurentiis makes a nice product that I'm happy with. Kangra same thing. This is why I asked what details people want, since I don't even have the language to describe things.
 

DorianGreen

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Refreshing my clothes, so I ordered a bunch of inxpensive cashmere from Yoox. Here's what I've got:
  • Kangra
  • Felippo de laurentiis - tneck and crewneck, both marked "brit cashmere" made in italy
  • Ballantyne - 2 different intarsia crewnecks, just says "made in italy"
  • Drumohr
  • Malo
What photos or info, if anything, can I post that would help the experts here figure out where they stack up? I'm satisfied with all of them and yoox return policy is basically freerolling, just wanna give a chance for people in the future to know what to look for.
I think you bought good stuff. Of course made in Italy Ballantyne is not like the made in Scotland one, but still pretty good. Malo and Drumohr are excellent as well. I saw some garments from Filippo de Laurentis in real life, but don't own anything.
I would much appreciate, if you would post some pictures.
 

wEstSidE

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I think you bought good stuff. Of course made in Italy Ballantyne is not like the made in Scotland one, but still pretty good. Malo and Drumohr are excellent as well. I saw some garments from Filippo de Laurentis in real life, but don't own anything.
I would much appreciate, if you would post some pictures.
I'm volunteering to post pics, but you gotta give me some guidance or examples of what to take pics of. I'm pretty good at taking pics, just not sure what is of interest here. Like the gauge thickness? Macros of certain spots? Let me know.
 

DorianGreen

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I'm volunteering to post pics, but you gotta give me some guidance or examples of what to take pics of. I'm pretty good at taking pics, just not sure what is of interest here. Like the gauge thickness? Macros of certain spots? Let me know.
Feel free to post what you like, the items themselves, fit pics, details. And provide some information, material, size and measurements, country of origin. Everything is appreciated here.
 

Johnny80

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I'm volunteering to post pics, but you gotta give me some guidance or examples of what to take pics of. I'm pretty good at taking pics, just not sure what is of interest here. Like the gauge thickness? Macros of certain spots? Let me know.
Pictures with garments as they arrived; open up with the arms spread; inside out; and close pictures , if you can, where the threads meet the base (if you have vertical garment), post the base of the garment, and the crewneck/v neck close up, also where the arms touches the shoulders (ofc if its from 2/3 pieces)
If your Kangra and Drumohr are lighter colours , please make macro pictures (if you can) with the threads (anywhere but base or arms base)
All of these if you can/want, otherwise just pictures with the overall garments
 
Last edited:

DorianGreen

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Another waistcoat, William Lockie for Michael Jondral.

20221207_102319.jpg
20221207_102418.jpg
20221207_102432.jpg
20221207_102712.jpg


3ply geelong lambswool, Natural colour, EU 50 size, 54,5 cm pit to pit.

Here I chose a looser fit, as the garment is a little more casual and the knit thicker.
 
Last edited:

fabricateurialist

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Missoni round neck arrived, I just have a soft spot for their knitwear

100% wool, I haven't bought from them in a minute, so I noticed that the wool feels remarkably smooth and soft to the touch (I assume it's coated)

some linen sweaters from Inis Meáin came too (as layering pieces for spring and the ever-hotter summer season) that I can share if there's interest

image1.jpeg
image7.jpeg
 

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