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Cashmere Sweater Hierarchy

msimon

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I don't remember my alan paine Madagascan crew neck had reinforced seams, can't check either because the cat destroyed it.
 

DorianGreen

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Cashmere Diaries No. 1

Today while putting on my William Lockie I discovered, to my pleasant surprise, that not only the armpit seams are reinforced, but they also hand reinforced the turn cuff seams and the seams at the bottom ribbed hem - for a total of six (6) spots. To me, this kind of hand work and attention to detail is what makes a knitwear piece truly "worth it", and what makes them last.
View attachment 1861722

On the contrary, the Berk I got my from my father does not have these reinforcements.
View attachment 1861723

Other than WL, Only Loro Piana, Fioroni and Chanel (Barrie) have this feature. Colombo does not.
View attachment 1861725 View attachment 1861726 View attachment 1861727
Maybe the reinforcements on the BERK jumper are done in a subtler way (less visible).

Anyway nobody with some cognition would say that their knit were inferior quality because of it.
 

DorianGreen

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Looking to get thoughts on Johnstons of Elgin cashmere? I’m currently looking at their ribbed roll necks. I have a JOE cashmere scarf, but I purchased this some time ago.

Im particularly interested to hear how they stack up against William Lockie and Colhays both of which I have experience with.

Thanks
I would recommend WL over Johnston's of Elgin, whose jumpers are generally less tightly knit (more slack) than WL. See posts number 624 and 647 of this thread.
I would also prefer William Lockie to Johnstons of Elgin, they feel more consistent, at least in the plainer styles. I also have some heavier knits from JOE that are rather thick and sturdy-feeling instead.

Like this one, made for Private White VC.
20221029_103906.jpg
 
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happydayz1

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I was actually looking at this from Private White. It looks a lovely piece.

How is the overall fit? True to size? The cuff and ribbed waist length look quite long so wasn’t sure exactly how it would look aesthetically. Thanks
 

DorianGreen

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I don't remember my alan paine Madagascan crew neck had reinforced seams, can't check either because the cat destroyed it.
I don't know whether my Alan Paines are made in Madascar, because there's no indication on the label (probably a clue they are, or at least they are not made in the UK).

Frankly I never paid much attention to this aspect, because I always saw that and took it for granted. I also think that the reinforcements sometimes are made in a coarse way.
 

DorianGreen

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I was actually looking at this from Private White. It looks a lovely piece.

How is the overall fit? True to size? The cuff and ribbed waist length look quite long so wasn’t sure exactly how it would look aesthetically. Thanks
I took a 3 size, opting to size down to get a snug fit, as I usually wear an EU 50. According to your preferences you can choose the normal size, if you prefer a more relaxed fit (as it's also thought for), or a smaller one, if you, like me, want it more fitted.
The long hem and cuffs are features reminiscent of the original Submariner jumper, they are nice style elements in my eyes.

And yes, it's a really lovely piece.
 
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fabricateurialist

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There's always interest for nice knitwear.
the first three pictures feature the Drumhor, it feels more Scottish than Italian, not overprocessed in any way, interestingly it comes with roll-up cuffs, it's definitely a lighter piece for layering or milder winter temperatures despite its relatively tight-knit, I'd say it falls somewhere in between a Fedeli 2ply and fine merino knit - and one can't argue the sale price of $87

the latter four feature the Dolce and Gabbana polo, it feels like silk, now make of that what you will, but I could not find a single fiber peaking out anywhere, so whatever they did to it, they did it well, the fit is typically DG, slim with enough fabric in the right places to allow for comfort, it is a tad shorter than any other knit polo I have, but the sturdy hem on the waist holds it in place quite well, the collar kills it for me, it is their signature narrow one which is remarkably well-executed rolls slightly off from the buttonhole and is even tighter knitted than the hems

TLDR, the Drumhor appears to be a good and sturdy layering piece with an Italian fit and "British" cuffs, the DG polo is impeccably made with the brand's signature design details
 

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DorianGreen

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the first three pictures feature the Drumhor, it feels more Scottish than Italian, not overprocessed in any way, interestingly it comes with roll-up cuffs, it's definitely a lighter piece for layering or milder winter temperatures despite its relatively tight-knit, I'd say it falls somewhere in between a Fedeli 2ply and fine merino knit - and one can't argue the sale price of $87

the latter four feature the Dolce and Gabbana polo, it feels like silk, now make of that what you will, but I could not find a single fiber peaking out anywhere, so whatever they did to it, they did it well, the fit is typically DG, slim with enough fabric in the right places to allow for comfort, it is a tad shorter than any other knit polo I have, but the sturdy hem on the waist holds it in place quite well, the collar kills it for me, it is their signature narrow one which is remarkably well-executed rolls slightly off from the buttonhole and is even tighter knitted than the hems

TLDR, the Drumhor appears to be a good and sturdy layering piece with an Italian fit and "British" cuffs, the DG polo is impeccably made with the brand's signature design details
The Drumohr is really nice, and at that price a great bargain.
 
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HotDilf

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Thank you for sharing, @rbc - I especially appreciate the weight comparison!
 

HotDilf

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In colder seasons it is often advisable to dress in "threes": start with a sweat-wicking base layer, then a warmth retaining mid layer, and finish with a wind- and rain-resistant outer layer.

Is merino wool a better option than cashmere for the moisture-wicking base layer?
 

happydayz1

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I find merino effective and more economical for base layer purposes. Obviously depends on the mid layer garment in question, but if just opting for a crew neck base layer for temperature regulation purposes, which will be covered by say a cashmere mid layer which you won’t be taking off, I find offerings from Icebreaker and Veilance effective (and well constructed) for such purposes.
 

Zc94

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In colder seasons it is often advisable to dress in "threes": start with a sweat-wicking base layer, then a warmth retaining mid layer, and finish with a wind- and rain-resistant outer layer.

Is merino wool a better option than cashmere for the moisture-wicking base layer?
I do this three layer set up when I’m outside for a long period of time.

But most of the times when I’m in and out of places or staying inside of a building for a little bit I find it too hot to have base layer plus a mid layer. Usually I’d just wear a cotton t shirt underneath the mid layer.

P.S. I’m in the north east US, it’s usually very very hot in the buildings in the winter. But this year may be different though since the energy bill will be higher.
 

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