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Cashmere Sweater Hierarchy

VinnyMac

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I bought a variety of JAB cashmere and merino sweaters over 2 years ago. They all still look great...no shininess....no fuzziness. Women like to rub their hands on them. I wore one last night and my date loved it. The sweaters were $20 or less. I think that the investment was justified. The only issue is that I had to take them to a tailor to have them slimmed down, but that's the case with otr clothes that I buy from almost every store.
 

apack

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I bought a variety of JAB cashmere and merino sweaters over 2 years ago. They all still look great...no shininess....no fuzziness. Women like to rub their hands on them. I wore one last night and my date loved it. The sweaters were $20 or less. I think that the investment was justified. The only issue is that I had to take them to a tailor to have them slimmed down, but that's the case with otr clothes that I buy from almost every store.

That's a good tip. I'll have to check them out on JAB's next 75% off sale.
 

Dingusberry

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Hey,

what brand give most bang for the buck for cashmere sweaters in small sizes?
I am interested in buying a good cashmere sweater, that would be my first, and I can't afford expensive brands like Brunello Cucinelli and Loro Piana right now.
 

OinkBoink

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bourbonbasted

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Hey,

what brand give most bang for the buck for cashmere sweaters in small sizes?
I am interested in buying a good cashmere sweater, that would be my first, and I can't afford expensive brands like Brunello Cucinelli and Loro Piana right now.


If you're looking for a "cheap" sweater, I'd stick with Merino. In terms of value and quality, decent cashmere starts around $350-$400. I wouldn't mess with anything under that price point, as there are much better options at lower price points.
 

mcbrown

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If you're looking for a "cheap" sweater, I'd stick with Merino. In terms of value and quality, decent cashmere starts around $350-$400. I wouldn't mess with anything under that price point, as there are much better options at lower price points.


Johnston's of Elgin sweaters are always available at Sierra Trading Post for $232, and routinely can be had for about $200 (+/- $10, depending on the particular promotion). Not all sizes and colors all the time, but if you are patient you can get them in most colors. I can't speak to the long-term durability as I only recently got on the "don't buy cheap cashmere" bandwagon, but the brand seems reasonably well-regarded around here, and after 2 months my first J of E sweater is plainly much nicer than the crap I bought previously.
 

bourbonbasted

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Johnston's of Elgin sweaters are always available at Sierra Trading Post for $232, and routinely can be had for about $200 (+/- $10, depending on the particular promotion). Not all sizes and colors all the time, but if you are patient you can get them in most colors. I can't speak to the long-term durability as I only recently got on the "don't buy cheap cashmere" bandwagon, but the brand seems reasonably well-regarded around here, and after 2 months my first J of E sweater is plainly much nicer than the crap I bought previously.


Have heard good things about Johnston's, though I have no experience. Honestly I wouldn't consider $232 cheap, and if I'm willing to spend around $250 on a sweater, then I'm willing to spend $350-$400. Though that might not be the case for everyone.

Around the $200-$250 price I'd recommend BB Made in Scotland sweaters on sale. They are made with Todd & Duncan fibers, which is the major supplier to famous, high-end Scottish makers like Lockie. And they are frequently on sale for 30-50% off (most recently last week). I will warn, however, it's single ply and therefore better suited for layering.
 
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Dingusberry

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What about Polo Ralph Lauren cashmere sweaters? Many of my friends wear cashmere sweaters from that line, but is it good?

There is this site that sells cashmere sweaters from lots of random brands and some famous (like Kiton, Brunello Cucinelli, Loro Piana, John Smedley, Borelli etc.) They also sell cashmere sweaters from Malo for $180 and Trillion Private Label for $270 at discount. Have you heard of the brands?
 

bourbonbasted

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RL cashmere is made in China. The technology gap between European makers and Chinese makers has narrowed in the recent past and there are some good-to-better Chinese makers out there. However, the Chinese houses are infamous for adding synthetic materials or other fibers (like wool) to elongate fibers. The result is often a softer product, due to the cheaper, over-washed materials used; don't think soft cashmere is superior. I generally avoid Chinese fibers as there is no way to know where it was actually made, what QC processes are in place, etc.

I think of knitwear like I think of shoes: I wouldn't buy a "high-end" name just because that brand is known for making nice things. Think of it like buying E Zegna shoes vs. Crockett and Jones. Zegna is a great name and makes tremendous fabrics, but their shoes are crap (pardon Couture/XXX). Again, it's easy to be blinded by a name and a premium. So I generally stay away from the big Italian names when I'm going with knitwear (Kiton, Attolini, Gucci, Brioni, etc). I stick to smaller houses that specialize in, or only make, knitwear.

From the brands you mentioned, I've only owned a couple (Brunello Cucinelli and Loro Piana). Both are very nice, but also incredibly expensive. I've heard great things about John Smedley and Borelli. I've handled Malo on a few different occasions and, while some has been quite nice, I've also seen some single ply offerings that seemed quite lack-luster, considering their price point. I've never heard of "Trillion."

All and all I'd be wary about ordering something like knitwear online without handling it beforehand. Just like a suit or shirt, you really only get a feel of something's quality by handling it. If you're truly on a budget I'd keep any eye out on eBay and thrift stores for older (1960s-1980s) cashmere. That time frame is widely considered the golden age of cashmere and most everything made during those years, when cared for properly, will still look and wear nearly new today. Do some looking through this (and others) thread for some names to keep an eye out for.

Many of the purists will tell you that there are no excellent cashmere makers left. The expensive and difficult process of procuring cashmere properly, coupled with the invasion of bargain cashmere and the disposable nature of today's "designer" offerings, put a lot of the old makers either out of business or has forced them to decrease quality considerably. Pardon a few VERY expensive makers (think Hermès), there aren't many tremendous cashmere options out there.
 
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Dingusberry

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Oh, many thanks for the most informational response I've ever received on this forum
This helped me a lot. Now, when my friends tell me that "high-end" brands are superior compared to small houses, I tell them what you wrote.

Yeah, I think I am on budget, because I am just 18 and student, and my parents are not that rich, but I have a part time job that gives me a little cash to afford small luxurious things in life.
 
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Nikola

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Fall is around the corner, no metter how July feels hot, and l became huge cashmere admirer after reading this thread and decided it's time to invest in some quality 100% cashmere sweaters. l know l will have a hard time keeping it clean as someone saying- NO DRY CLEANING whatsoever, other disagree with handwash, saying it might stretch the fibers .. But, that's not why l came on this thread ..

Considering that up until now, most of my casual wardobe l was buying in Hugo Boss, l decided to go one step above this year, and invest more money in some nicer brands like Brunello Cucinelli/Loro Piana /Aida Barni on one side and HB on another side, though difference between these brands in price is about 300% ..

My question would be, as l was lurking the hugo boss page by default and found one 100% cashmere sweater for around 300 usd, l was wondering does Brunello Cucinelli or Loro Piana have 3x better cashmere blend than Hugo Boss, is the price of around 1.000 usd is justified compared to HB 300 usd? l know they are importing cashmere from Mongolia, and that it's propably best in the market, but is hugo boss that bad?

I mean, what could l expect from Hugo Boss 100% cashmere sweater? Will it peal? Will it fall apart 3 times faster then BC or LP?Is it worth buying Hugo Boss cashmere? Because l don't want to be a sheep and pay premium for just brand name .. Can you advice me?
 
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bourbonbasted

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I'll take a stab for you.

You're buying cashmere. Cashmere, by process and definition, is a luxury material. There is little-to-no added benefit of cashmere that justifies the process by which it is harvested and manufactured. Accordingly, it is a luxury product to be worn by those who can afford to indulge. It isn't appropriate or correct to examine a luxury good solely on its "quality" or inherent superiority to other items because, at the end of the day, you're flat out paying more.

Now, in terms of comparing cashmere quality: Anyone that tries to objectively tell you Product A is worth exactly 150% more than Product B is lying to you. There is no objective way to quantify superiority of one product over another unless you're examining complete opposite ends of the spectrum. Manufacturing process, quality control, raw materials, business ethics and personal utility all weigh in on the value of a good. However, when discussing luxury items, this value identity is even further clouded, if not completely thrown out the window. You use terms like "quality" and "value" to justify purchases, but they are far from absolute, largely informed by group-think or brand image, and rarely the sole reason one purchases a good.

Trying to objectively state how much better one item of clothing is than another is a slippery slope. You're better off using your emotional indicators and pocket book to inform your decision. That is to say: Do you find the object aesthetically pleasing? Does it align with your moral and ethical means-of-manufacturing sensibilities? Do you enjoy wearing it? Does it address your needs? Can you afford it? And so on. Eventually you will arrive at your own personal definition of cost vs. utility vs. justification. Unfortunately, it's generally only personal experience that can be your guide. You won't know how great that sweater looks in 10 years until 10 years goes by. You won't know that last doesn't fit your foot until you wear the shoes, etc.

In short, if you're looking to make yourself feel better about spending more, and the pleasure of buying, wearing or maintaining the good isn't enough, I suggest you not spend the extra money.
 
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