Cashmere Sweater Hierarchy

[DorianGreen]

William Lockie for William Crabtree in flannel grey.

For those of you who are familiar with the Permanent Style x William Crabtree Rugby Shirt, this is the equivalent in Crewneck.

Nice bouncy feel to the cashmere and a noticeable weight difference when compared to the Oxton.


View attachment 2091575 View attachment 2091577 View attachment 2091579

Nice! Yes, if it's the equivalent of the Rugby Shirt of PS, it's a 4-ply yarn and accordingly heavier.

 

[Scuppers]

The Rolls Royce of knitwear.
Kiton cashmere cardigan with mink fur lining.
View attachment 2085131 View attachment 2085129 View attachment 2085133 View attachment 2085135 View attachment 2085137


In my size and probably well worth the $5,000 USD asking price.
But seller does not accept returns and has 0 feedback.

Had forgot to reply to this. Mink lining is fine, however, not comfortable. Have a Vicuña topcoat with shorn mink lining (removable), makes the world of difference.

 

[double00]

Would you happen to have recommendations for where to get good wool or cashmere seamless knitwear? Never tried one before, but you piqued my curiosity.

totally seamless ? off the dome you could look at dale of norway which offers examples of seamless hand knitting , or vintage bohus stickning if you can find it . dale will be chunkier but the bohus stuff is quite fine .

for machine work ( maybe you like finer gauged knits ) check out the shima seiki products that other folks have referenced . i've not seen it myself but machine knitting has taken a nice step forward since nike got involved in knit shoe uppers .

did you know the classic polo cable-knit sweaters have no shoulder seams ? it's a nice feature of those knits and i have other polo stuff where the body fabric ascends on one side and seamlessly descends on the other side , it gives a nice ease to the shoulders but does involve side seams ... there are plenty of examples of seamless arms and sides , i like to use seams on shoulders to give a sense of structure but grafting is always possible there so it really depends on what you want to see

 

[fabricateurialist]

totally seamless ? off the dome you could look at dale of norway which offers examples of seamless hand knitting , or vintage bohus stickning if you can find it . dale will be chunkier but the bohus stuff is quite fine .

for machine work ( maybe you like finer gauged knits ) check out the shima seiki products that other folks have referenced . i've not seen it myself but machine knitting has taken a nice step forward since nike got involved in knit shoe uppers .

did you know the classic polo cable-knit sweaters have no shoulder seams ? it's a nice feature of those knits and i have other polo stuff where the body fabric ascends on one side and seamlessly descends on the other side , it gives a nice ease to the shoulders but does involve side seams ... there are plenty of examples of seamless arms and sides , i like to use seams on shoulders to give a sense of structure but grafting is always possible there so it really depends on what you want to see

For shoes, Santoni (unrelated to the shoemaker but also Italian) is the leading producer of these machines that churn out entire 3d knitted uppers with textures, patterns and other details https://www.santoni.com/en/products/seamless

 

[epsilon22]

totally seamless ? off the dome you could look at dale of norway which offers examples of seamless hand knitting , or vintage bohus stickning if you can find it . dale will be chunkier but the bohus stuff is quite fine .

for machine work ( maybe you like finer gauged knits ) check out the shima seiki products that other folks have referenced . i've not seen it myself but machine knitting has taken a nice step forward since nike got involved in knit shoe uppers .

did you know the classic polo cable-knit sweaters have no shoulder seams ? it's a nice feature of those knits and i have other polo stuff where the body fabric ascends on one side and seamlessly descends on the other side , it gives a nice ease to the shoulders but does involve side seams ... there are plenty of examples of seamless arms and sides , i like to use seams on shoulders to give a sense of structure but grafting is always possible there so it really depends on what you want to see

Thanks, this is good info.

depends on where do you live/travel. Zegna stores in general have some
If you happen to have one near by, you can go and try in person. I found some nice pieces but for me they ran a bit too long for my size. But if you are a tall person then it should be ok

I'm pretty average by Western standards (176cm) so definitely not tall haha.

By the way, how would you compare Colombo's cashmere/silk blend vs their kid cashmere? Thinking of trying one or the other for a lightweight turtleneck (maybe eventually both).

 

[Johnny80]

Thanks, this is good info.


I'm pretty average by Western standards (176cm) so definitely not tall haha.

By the way, how would you compare Colombo's cashmere/silk blend vs their kid cashmere? Thinking of trying one or the other for a lightweight turtleneck (maybe eventually both).

If you are talking about their kid cashmere+silk blend it depends if you like the look and feel. From the start it has that more silky look but with kid cashmere it has that bit more accentuated. For light turtleneck, i would go with full cashmere, but if you know you will wear it often cashmere silk blend is even more durable. I would suggest to try, if you can these: full kid/cashmere turtleneck, pure cashmere with silk blend and kid cashmere with silk. For me the silk with pure cashmere was the way to go, but if you have heavy skin sensibility then pure cashmere in any form for turtleneck is out of the question. But try and see these 3 options how makes you feel, what part of that high neck combo you like more from the feel and fit standpoint

 

[BritInOregon]

By the way, how would you compare Colombo's cashmere/silk blend vs their kid cashmere? Thinking of trying one or the other for a lightweight turtleneck (maybe eventually both).

I can't speak to Lan Colombo's cashmere/silk blends, but the few C/S blend sweaters (of any brand) I have do feel noticably stronger and with a little more stretch to them. More light weight too, not something I'd wear as an outer layer in the winter, but better for going under a jacket or overcoat. Pictured is a stefano cashmere silk blend sweater that I'm very fond of. Please excuse the murky office mirror and weary, end-of-year look on my face.

 

[DorianGreen]

I can't speak to Lan Colombo's cashmere/silk blends, but the few C/S blend sweaters (of any brand) I have do feel noticably stronger and with a little more stretch to them. More light weight too, not something I'd wear as an outer layer in the winter, but better for going under a jacket or overcoat. Pictured is a stefano cashmere silk blend sweater that I'm very fond of. Please excuse the murky office mirror and weary, end-of-year look on my face.

Thanks for your contribution. I also think that a cashmere/silk blend is more suitable for layering. Roll and mock necks, as well as polo shirts would be the best styles, in my opinion.

By the way, I have some socks in cashemere and silk and they feel very solid.

 

[acconrad]

Thank you both - I was actually wondering why people would ever prefer C/S to 100% cashmere, this is helpful. Was actually planning on getting a roll/mock neck and now I have a good idea of why I could justify a C/S version instead.

--

Unrelated, who makes the cashmere for Private White VC? They only list it as Scottish 8-gauge cashmere so curious if that's Lockie or someone else.

 

[epsilon22]

Thanks everyone, I think I'll try to get one each (one kid cashmere, and one cashmere/silk) eventually. I took a look at the pics on Colombo's website, I feel like for most colors I prefer the look of the pure kid cashmere, though they don't always have the exact same color on both.

I was able to get used to my pure cashmere WL Oxton after a few wears (initially my neck did feel a bit itchy) so I think my skin is not super sensitive.

Currently considering this navy kid cashmere from Colombo and a thicker navy 4-ply from Colhay's. The latter should be substantially heavier than my Oxton, and would be great for when I spend a lot of time outdoors.

 

[Xyol]

Thanks everyone, I think I'll try to get one each (one kid cashmere, and one cashmere/silk) eventually. I took a look at the pics on Colombo's website, I feel like for most colors I prefer the look of the pure kid cashmere, though they don't always have the exact same color on both.

I was able to get used to my pure cashmere WL Oxton after a few wears (initially my neck did feel a bit itchy) so I think my skin is not super sensitive.

Currently considering this navy kid cashmere from Colombo and a thicker navy 4-ply from Colhay's. The latter should be substantially heavier than my Oxton, and would be great for when I spend a lot of time outdoors.

I am “blessed” with sensitive skin as well. I bought the Colombo a few months ago and it did not feel itchy at any point - the same cannot be said about my Colhay’s (2-ply) but as with your Lockie: time solved the issue.

If both are not an option, I would get the one that gets the most use (first). Colhay’s may provide some other use cases as you noted. You cannot go wrong either way in my opinion. Just note that Colombo’s ribbing feels a bit tighter than Colhay’s.

 

[epsilon22]

I am “blessed” with sensitive skin as well. I bought the Colombo a few months ago and it did not feel itchy at any point - the same cannot be said about my Colhay’s (2-ply) but as with your Lockie: time solved the issue.

If both are not an option, I would get the one that gets the most use (first). Colhay’s may provide some other use cases as you noted. You cannot go wrong either way in my opinion. Just note that Colombo’s ribbing feels a bit tighter than Colhay’s.

Yeah I think eventually I'll try them both (plus the cashmere/silk blend from Colombo), but I try to not rush and slowly acquire new things for my wardrobe, so I don't waste money and space for things that I end up not wearing a lot. These things aren't cheap after all.

 

[DorianGreen]

Thank you both - I was actually wondering why people would ever prefer C/S to 100% cashmere, this is helpful. Was actually planning on getting a roll/mock neck and now I have a good idea of why I could justify a C/S version instead.

--

Unrelated, who makes the cashmere for Private White VC? They only list it as Scottish 8-gauge cashmere so curious if that's Lockie or someone else.

I have their Cashmere Submariner Rollneck and seem to remember that they specified it's made by Johnstons of Elgin. A lovely, substantial piece.

 

[Hardtmuth]

Anyone have an opinion on the Ballantyne Raw Diamond line? Is this sweater worth $300?. It is definitely heavy and 100% cashmere. Not nearly as soft as my Malo sweaters of a similar weight.

 

[coloRLOw]

i also have a question about Ballantyne

i remember blue dragon is made in 1970s, and i just saw two different blue dragons.

so are they both from 1970s?