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Cashmere Sweater Hierarchy

Charles Knight

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I dont know where these 10x markups are coming from, most luxury brands markup to retail price of 3.0-3.7x

I often wonder how it is possible that so many SF guys can nerd out on product based details yet be so uninformed about the business of fashion.

Its obvious some of yall work in finance or accounting so I dont blame you for looking, but looking at operating margin is poor way to derive a markup value for individual products.

For the record Cucinelli markup is not that high, its much less than most of the offerings from brands under LVMH or Kering
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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I dont know where these 10x markups are coming from, most luxury brands markup to retail price of 3.0-3.7x

I often wonder how it is possible that so many SF guys can nerd out on product based details yet be so uninformed about the business of fashion.

Its obvious some of yall work in finance or accounting so I dont blame you for looking, but looking at operating margin is poor way to derive a markup value for individual products.

For the record Cucinelli markup is not that high, its much less than most of the offerings from brands under LVMH or Kering
Are you taking mark up from pure manufacturing cost or the total cost of doing business?
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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From manufacturing costs
I believe you work at Cucinelli, is that right?

I suppose it's hard for me to understand how these are marked up by just 3x. I don't claim to know the exact mark-up and I don't think it's as high as 10x. But these sneakers, for example, are $745. How would these cost $248 to make when even Common Projects don't wholesale for that much?

Screen Shot 2020-09-18 at 12.28.59 AM.png



A machine-stitched wallet for $545. If it's a 3x mark-up that would make this $181 to manufacture?

Screen Shot 2020-09-18 at 12.28.52 AM.png



A wool-silk-cashmere blend sweater for $2,000. Which would put manufacturing at $666?
Screen Shot 2020-09-18 at 12.32.47 AM.png



A suit for $8,000? About five years ago, a fully handmade bespoke suit from Savile Row cost about $2,000 to make.


Screen Shot 2020-09-18 at 12.33.45 AM.png



Not saying you're incorrect, just curious as the prices seem very high to me.
 

Charles Knight

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I believe you work at Cucinelli, is that right?

I suppose it's hard for me to understand how these are marked up by just 3x. I don't claim to know the exact mark-up and I don't think it's as high as 10x. But these sneakers, for example, are $745. How would these cost $248 to make when even Common Projects don't wholesale for that much?

View attachment 1460740


A machine-stitched wallet for $545. If it's a 3x mark-up that would make this $181 to manufacture?

View attachment 1460741


A wool-silk-cashmere blend sweater for $2,000. Which would put manufacturing at $666?
View attachment 1460742


A suit for $8,000? About five years ago, a fully handmade bespoke suit from Savile Row cost about $2,000 to make.


View attachment 1460743


Not saying you're incorrect, just curious as the prices seem very high to me.

Yep, the markup applies to all of these, in fact the markup on that brown chalkstripe jacket is less than 3x (from price including shipping and import taxes)

That exact suit has the same costs (actually about 100EUR less) as an average Savile Row suit (according to this article from Simon Crompton )

Not saying the quality is the same as savile row believe me, but I think people (especially in the us where obviously the prices are high after VAT etc) have distorted view of our prices.
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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Yep, the markup applies to all of these, in fact the markup on that brown chalkstripe jacket is less than 3x (from price including shipping and import taxes)

That exact suit has the same costs (actually about 100EUR less) as an average Savile Row suit (according to this article from Simon Crompton )

Not saying the quality is the same as savile row believe me, but I think people (especially in the us where obviously the prices are high after VAT etc) have distorted view of our prices.
Maybe too much to get into here, and perhaps not info you can divulge, but how does a machine-made suit end up costing in the neighborhood of $2,000 to manufacture? The lapels look like they were finished with an AMF machine, so I assume the other parts of the garment were machine sewn.
 

Charles Knight

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Maybe too much to get into here, and perhaps not info you can divulge, but how does a machine-made suit end up costing in the neighborhood of $2,000 to manufacture? The lapels look like they were finished with an AMF machine, so I assume the other parts of the garment were machine sewn.

We have quite high manufacturing costs because of alot of factors outside of just quality/materials. For one, the employees are paid on average 20% higher than similar companies. Secondly we produce almost all of our garments in house in Umbria, which is expensive because of the lack of supply chain here (small factory in the middle of farmland) as well as the fact that we don't outsource anything.

Most our high price is related to the way Brunello wants to operate the company, with respect for his workers as well as nature, which is an expensive way to do business.
 

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I read in another thread that Inis Meain's wool/cashmere has a tendency to pill, perhaps earlier and more visibly than other brands' offerings. Wondering if others have any experience/opinions.
 

TheShetlandSweater

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I read in another thread that Inis Meain's wool/cashmere has a tendency to pill, perhaps earlier and more visibly than other brands' offerings. Wondering if others have any experience/opinions.
I have one sweater from them. It is wool. It pills a lot. I still like it, but I think their sweaters are very overpriced for what they are (at least based on the one data point I have).
 

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I have one sweater from them. It is wool. It pills a lot. I still like it, but I think their sweaters are very overpriced for what they are (at least based on the one data point I have).
Thank you. I’m sorry to hear it hasn’t held up as hoped.
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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I read in another thread that Inis Meain's wool/cashmere has a tendency to pill, perhaps earlier and more visibly than other brands' offerings. Wondering if others have any experience/opinions.
I have multiple cashmere-merino sweaters from them. They pill less than cheap sweaters, in my experience. All knitwear pills eventually, but I woudn't say these are prone to pilling.
 

garigo

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Has any of you ever tried knitwear from Anderson & Sheppard? Do you consider it overpriced compared to Lockie?
 

Phileas Fogg

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Has any of you ever tried knitwear from Anderson & Sheppard? Do you consider it overpriced compared to Lockie?
No but my guess is that they outsource to someone who makes it for them under a private label. Find out who that is, and you’re bound to be able to get it cheaper
 

reidd

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I bought this 12 ply from O'Connells last winter:


Not sure what mill it comes from but it looks a lot like the Begg. It is indeed very plush and thick. Unfortunately, it pill very very much.
 
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