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Cashmere Sweater Hierarchy

Scuppers

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Wore this today, was in Tassie - not seeking Thylacine. Old school Hermes.
 

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double00

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I'm surprised that you said full needle rib has become the commercial knitwear standard, as from your explanation it seems that full needle rib uses more needles (and thus more yarn) and is a more labour- and time-intensive way to knit compared to using just a single flatbed machine.

virtually any sweater you see compare the body knit to a typical 2x2 hem ribbing this is exactly true - the ribbing is denser and indeed takes more time and labor to accomplish whether by hand or machine or some combination .

btw knitting machines are gauged , recall thta it's a comb and needle array and so there are differently sized machines to deal with various yarns and patterns etc . for that matter the body knit and ribbing don't have to be made on the same machine . ultimately you're trying to match the product with the tools available .

you don't have to hem with ribbing btw you can for instance turn the body fabric as you can see on a lot of cardigans , frankly much simpler but again it's about the idea of the product
 
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Does someone have experience with the quality and make of the Permanent Style cashmere products, in particular their/his shawl collar cardigan? I suspect the shawl is made by William Lockie (like the long-sleeve polo) but have not found any confirmation about this, so if you know/have reason to suspect as well let me know. There has been relatively little discussion of the products so I would be curious about any opinions and what people think of products purchased across the whole range and where you would place them relative to other brands and/or makers
 

DorianGreen

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Does someone have experience with the quality and make of the Permanent Style cashmere products, in particular their/his shawl collar cardigan? I suspect the shawl is made by William Lockie (like the long-sleeve polo) but have not found any confirmation about this, so if you know/have reason to suspect as well let me know. There has been relatively little discussion of the products so I would be curious about any opinions and what people think of products purchased across the whole range and where you would place them relative to other brands and/or makers

Well, I suspect the same, but don't have any confirmation about it. What I know is that the cardigan is made in Scotland and there are not many makers which are familiar with that style. Scott & Charters is only other one I can think of.

Also speaking for it, the Rugby (long-sleeved polo) Sweater is produced by Lockie as well.

I also have the Dartmoor in fine merino wool produced by Umbria Verde in Italy for Permanent Style.

So far I'm pretty happy with the quality, although I had to have the M size (my usual one) of the Rugby Sweater replaced with the S one, because the fit was too loose, but it's a matter of personal preference.
 
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happydayz1

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Has anyone experience with the Lockie Oxton cardigan? Too light weight for a cardigan or happy with your purchase? Thank you
 

DorianGreen

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Has anyone experience with the Lockie Oxton cardigan? Too light weight for a cardigan or happy with your purchase? Thank you

I have two of them, pretty happy with them, it's a perfect layer garment. It could be too light on its own, according to preferences and climate and weather conditions.
 

spicyypenguin

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Does anyone have experience or insight with Zegna's Oasi Cashmere line, specifically for sweaters? Especially compared to Brunello Cucinelli and Loro Piana's quality for the price?
 
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Rowyourboat

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Does anyone have experience or insight with Zegna's Oasi Cashmere line, specifically for sweaters? Especially compared to Brunello Cucinelli and Loro Piana's quality for the price?

The Oasi line has been around for a while and now has full traceability. I don't own any but I've tried them on several times. In terms of comfort/softness/durability, I think Zegna knitwear is pretty high quality and comparable to pieces by LP/BC. I think the price is too high for what it is ("medieval processing techniques", "full traceability") like you're way better off buying a jumper from BC than a Zegna Oasi sweater at a 30% premium. But there are lots of brands in this thread with comparable quality at much lower prices.

Long story short, no I don't think it is higher quality than the average sweater from those brands, so definitely not worth the price premium.
 

fabricateurialist

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Does anyone have experience or insight with Zegna's Oasi Cashmere line, specifically for sweaters? Especially compared to Brunello Cucinelli and Loro Piana's quality for the price?
I have a bunch

Oasi was a rebrand of their regular cashmere under the SPAC/IPO move upmarket, accompanied by traceability; according to my SA there's no difference in the yarn to their "premium" and "luxury" monickers that they used to label cashmere for the past twenty years

Compared to BC and LP, it's on par, Zegna processes their cashmere a bit more for a softer hand, which does not affect durability in any way ime

The only mentionable difference is that the knit is slightly more flexible/springy than the others. I find BC to be the least flexible of the three. To be clear, this doesn't imply any form of stretching out

I still can't tell the difference between LP's baby cashmere and Zegna's sweaters when put side by side, even if there probably is one on a fiber/microscopic level

There is a minimal amount of fluffing up, but I've never experienced any pilling on them except for one, but that was caused on the hips due to a garment tag of an outerwear jacket that I wore that winter

The only items I would not recommend are the CashSeta or cashmere silk blend, while beautifully fine knit and available in all colors of the rainbow, they will pill just by being looked at, and you're better off paying half the price for the same blend from N.Peal for example
 

spicyypenguin

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I have a bunch

Oasi was a rebrand of their regular cashmere under the SPAC/IPO move upmarket, accompanied by traceability; according to my SA there's no difference in the yarn to their "premium" and "luxury" monickers that they used to label cashmere for the past twenty years

Compared to BC and LP, it's on par, Zegna processes their cashmere a bit more for a softer hand, which does not affect durability in any way ime

The only mentionable difference is that the knit is slightly more flexible/springy than the others. I find BC to be the least flexible of the three. To be clear, this doesn't imply any form of stretching out

I still can't tell the difference between LP's baby cashmere and Zegna's sweaters when put side by side, even if there probably is one on a fiber/microscopic level

There is a minimal amount of fluffing up, but I've never experienced any pilling on them except for one, but that was caused on the hips due to a garment tag of an outerwear jacket that I wore that winter

The only items I would not recommend are the CashSeta or cashmere silk blend, while beautifully fine knit and available in all colors of the rainbow, they will pill just by being looked at, and you're better off paying half the price for the same blend from N.Peal for example

Thanks for the detailed response!

I have a couple of BC cashmere sweaters and just purchased my first Zegna "Oasi" cashmere sweater, I have the same thoughts as you. The BC one feels more structured whereas the Zegna one feels more relaxed, which gives a bit of mobility and less of a closely fitted look in the chest/shoulders - for me at least (larger, athletic build)

I actually do like the fit of the Zegna one more than my BC sweaters, but just wasn't sure how it compares in terms of overall fabric quality (beyond the initial soft feel) and long term durability. Like Rowyourboat mentioned, I couldn't tell if it was worth the price premium especially when compared to BC or LR cashmere. Thanks for the insight though, that's really assuring.
 

fabricateurialist

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Thanks for the detailed response!

I have a couple of BC cashmere sweaters and just purchased my first Zegna "Oasi" cashmere sweater, I have the same thoughts as you. The BC one feels more structured whereas the Zegna one feels more relaxed, which gives a bit of mobility and less of a closely fitted look in the chest/shoulders - for me at least (larger, athletic build)

I actually do like the fit of the Zegna one more than my BC sweaters, but just wasn't sure how it compares in terms of overall fabric quality (beyond the initial soft feel) and long term durability. Like Rowyourboat mentioned, I couldn't tell if it was worth the price premium especially when compared to BC or LR cashmere. Thanks for the insight though, that's really assuring.
The fit is actually an important detail, especially since measurements are so frequently discussed on this thread; thanks for pointing that out

I'm an L/50IT in most brands, but Zegna's all-season/non-runway knitwear is cut rather generously, and a 48 will always be the right fit and the sleeve length is on par with their suits, so I can confirm your size comparison to BC, which fits rather snug in comparison, but they are not as roomy and long as LP

For those interested, Zegna also offers MTM cashmere sweaters (but they are more MTO with back and sleeve length being taken), and last time I checked they had a fairly quick turnaround time of three to four weeks
 
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