Cartier high-end watches?

[Aristocrat]

Well, what about them?
I always hear complains about the santos, although it's most beautiful..
But what about the more high-end watches, I don't recall seeing one on a human being the last year or so..
Please enlight me, since I'm considering in a buy.

 

[TheFoo]

I would just be aware that you are paying a large premium for the style and the brand when it comes to Cartier. There are many other choices that offer a far superior value in mechanical quality for equal or less money. If you like the Santos, take a look at the JLC Reverso Squadra. It's also a chunky, square watch, but with a much better movement.

 

[neato]

When someone says high-end watch, I automatically think of Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, Audemars Piguet, and the like.

Aren't Cartier watches more like "designer watches?"

 

[gdl203]

The higher end "Collection PrivÃ

e" collection is wonderful. I really like some of the Tortue models. In the regular range, I have a soft spot for the Santos Dumont. Other than that, I'm not a huge fan of Cartier's men watches.

If you don't care too much about movements but like their designs, go for it. The movements are certainly not bad - just more common than some higher-end makers - and they're reliable and serviceable

 

[Aristocrat]

Yes I was talking about the Collection PrivÃ

e!
OK thank you gdl203, I'll keep it in mind when I go for a watchhunt.

 

[TheFoo]

Originally Posted by Aristocrat

Yes I was talking about the Collection PrivÃ

e!

You'll find that though the PrivÃ

e watches have better movements, they are still vastly over-priced as compared to watches made by other makers.

 

[Etienne]

Originally Posted by gdl203

The movements are certainly not bad - just more common than some higher-end makers - and they're reliable and serviceable
That's one thing I always have difficulty understanding, since I am not a watch-buff. Does the quality of the movement really make difference to the wearer as long as said movement is serviceable? How do you tell?

 

[zjpj83]

Collection PrivÃ

e is very nice but a very high price for what it is IMO.

 

[TheFoo]

Originally Posted by Étienne

That's one thing I always have difficulty understanding, since I am not a watch-buff. Does the quality of the movement really make difference to the wearer as long as said movement is serviceable? How do you tell?

Functionally, an ETA ebauche will probably do just as well as any other non-complicated movement. With modifications and proper adjustment, it can be extremely precise and it's inherently durable in design.

The disadvantages are that ETA movements can be thicker because of their modular design (made to be easily disassembled for service and to allow additions of complication modules), and they aren't very pretty to look at.

An un-modified ETA is a pretty cheap thing. The problem to me is not that a Cartier with an ETA is going to break down more frequently than a watch with an in-house movement, but that you wind up paying a lot for something you could have gotten for much, much less if not for the brand name.

 

[gdl203]

Originally Posted by Étienne

That's one thing I always have difficulty understanding, since I am not a watch-buff. Does the quality of the movement really make difference to the wearer as long as said movement is serviceable? How do you tell?
Étienne - "quality" for watch movements does not only encompass accuracy and other utility aspects (such as being easy to service). Just like tailored clothes for example, the difference is in the finishing details, some of the components used (e.g. balance springs, plate materials, swan-neck regulators,...) and the amount of handwork put into making that movement. Some of the higher-end movements require dozens of man hours of work to e.g. chanfer the edged of all the plates, polish the heads of all the screws, blue some steel parts on a flame, hand engraving, etc... So, a high quality movement is not simply different for its enhanced utility (such as complications) but also by the amount of work involved

 

[gdl203]

Here is an example of an ETA movement that is quite pretty to look at IMO. Obviously, some additional work was put into it by the watchmaker

 

[TheFoo]

Originally Posted by gdl203

Here is an example of an ETA movement that is quite pretty to look at IMO. Obviously, some additional work was put into it by the watchmaker

Dornbleuth does do a number on that Unitas. To be fair, though, you pay a price to match that quality of finish. Panerai's treatment of the same movement is also nice, but does not go nearly as far. Also, the Unitas is not a typical ETA ebauche.

Cartier, on the other hand, does very little if anything to its ETA-supplied movements. For the money, either of the above brands are a better buy, in my opinion.

 

[Etienne]

Originally Posted by gdl203

Just like tailored clothes for example, the difference is in the finishing details
I hear you, but I usually try to distinguish between details that do have some utility or add to the beauty and those that do not. For example, I am not religiously attached to hand-made clothes, but only to the extent that they fit better. I freely admit that the distinction is sometimes supercilious. Many people say that a leather sole "breathes" better without rubber added, but that is dubious at best, and if I insist and keeping my leather soles without protection that is in large part out of snobbishness. So I guess my question was more to know if the difference is really discernable or if it just a comfort to know that those (invisible and making no difference in utility) details are there. (not that there's anything wrong with that, I just want to know)

 

[TheFoo]

Originally Posted by Étienne

So I guess my question was more to know if the difference is really discernable or if it just a comfort to know that those (invisible and making no difference in utility) details are there. (not that there's anything wrong with that, I just want to know)

More detailed finishing does appear to allow movements to suffer less visible wear and tear: fewer coarse edges to grind away at each other. With cheaper movements, the best repair is often replacement.

If you plan on keeping the watch a long time, and perhaps passing it on, a nice movement makes more sense.

 

[Cantabrigian]

Originally Posted by Étienne

So I guess my question was more to know if the difference is really discernable or if it just a comfort to know that those (invisible and making no difference in utility) details are there. (not that there's anything wrong with that, I just want to know)

In terms of what you would notice in the normal course of business - i.e. without frequently checking your watch against the atomic clock - the differences won't be very noticeable at least not on an uncomplicated watch. Though I hear there is more of a difference when it comes to chronographs, for instance.

So long as the watch is maintained at the recommended interval, you're not likely to notice any difference in performance.

It's more for the aesthetics of the movement and knowing that you're supporting a tradition.