Cars We Drive!

Discussion in 'Fine Living, Home, Design & Auto' started by Bert1568, Jul 18, 2006.

  1. hopkins_student

    hopkins_student Senior member

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    My partners are giving me shit about the four door. So maybe the coupe instead. Can't handle the reduced trunk space of the cab.
     


  2. brokencycle

    brokencycle Senior member

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    Who cares what your partners think? Get the car you like. Personally, I don't like a coup with backseats.
     


  3. Dino944

    Dino944 Senior member

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    IMG_0570.JPG

    Old cars are more beautiful, more involving to drive, are fun to drive, are fun to show at club events, and there is a special comradery that exist between owners of old cars.

    The best of both worlds is having a modern car you enjoy for some days, and a vintage car to enjoy for others.

    Above is my favorite view on a Sunday morning...
     


  4. Medwed

    Medwed Senior member

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    Gated Ferrari...Noice.
    I could not believe when Ferrari got rid of gated shifter for the first time and replaced it with some reverse-gear clitoris.
     


  5. Dino944

    Dino944 Senior member

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    :rotflmao:

    Interesting description of their F1 transmission with paddle shifters.

    The F1 one transmission shifts faster than any human can, but their is something satisfying about using the classic gated shifter and the iconic metallic "clack" you hear when the stick hits the back of the slot gate as you change gears. Yes, it was a sad day for me when I heard Ferrari had stopped offering a manual transmission.
     
    Last edited: Jul 28, 2017 at 7:06 AM


  6. ridethecliche

    ridethecliche Senior member

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    This attitude turns 500 dollar builds into 1500 dollar engine builds lol.

    It's actually as simple as that. Swap rods, replace bearings, and replace piston rings. All are stock sizes so just plastigauge to double check.

    No need to install stronger valve springs. Miata engines have pretty shitty flow compared to honda engines (for instance). I'm limiting my revs to about 7k even though stock is closer to 7.2k because apparently the oil pump can fail at higher HP past that level. Going way past that requires a crank damper as well.

    My turbo is pretty much maxed out at 275-300 tops. I really don't see the need to build a block that's capable of 600hp when that's an absolutely bonkers goal. If I decide that I do want to go nuts with shit... then sure. It can all be done again the following winter. It's not like I'd have spent a ton of money on machine work. If I bored the block, I'd like an overbore. Again... slippery slope.

    I'd rather do a bit than do 'allofit'. Rods are the weak point and the stock pistons are cast and have been shown to be good to 325-350. Replacing rings and bearings is obviously a good idea though. Oem or aftermarket will be done.

    It's about mating budget to goals and being realistic :)

    Edit: Replacing oil pump as well! Probably not aftermarket though, but posssiblyyyy.
     
    Last edited: Jul 28, 2017 at 2:11 PM


  7. rohde88

    rohde88 Senior member

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    At what, $100 a pad set? Anyway, to each their own.
     


  8. jcman311

    jcman311 Senior member

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    Do you need to hone/crosshatch the cylinder walls? Otherwise uneven wear might eat up the new rings.
     


  9. colHolm

    colHolm Senior member

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    True. Better than 3 $500 builds though, no?
     


  10. ridethecliche

    ridethecliche Senior member

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    You just need to add a boxster to the list and you'll fit right in!
     


  11. ridethecliche

    ridethecliche Senior member

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    Depends on what it looks like in there. In a block with a little over 100k miles, I don't expect things to be all that bad. I think this runs like 100-150 bucks at a machine shop so if there's any doubt at all it's a small price to pay.

    There's a reason why I'm not buying a cheap block to rebuild here. I wouldn't trust doing this to a motor with uncertain-ish history.

    But your assumption is that these things don't work. There are tons of documented builds where they do. The amount of info for these cars is mind boggling. Folks have been boosting them since the 90's. The parts haven't changed all that much between 94-05. The heads got better over time and a six speed came out, but that's about it.

    Guys are running fully built blocks using 200 dollar ebay rods (wiseco pistons etc) with ARP hardware. No issues with 350-400 hp.

    The failures have been well documented as well. A miata specific shop that makes some of the best turbo kits for the cars runs a few race series. One is capped at 250hp. His race car has forged rods. Nothing else in the block has been touched, except for a refresh of things. Track cars get a ton more abuse than my mostly street car will get!
     
    Last edited: Jul 28, 2017 at 2:35 PM


  12. colHolm

    colHolm Senior member

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    Not assuming anything. Just suggesting to do the work once. I have no doubt that replacing the rods will meet your requirement... For now. What about in the future?

    I've just made that mistake in the past.
     


  13. ridethecliche

    ridethecliche Senior member

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    Oh totally agree!

    The for now works because going past that level will require a new turbo and likely a new manifold and exhaust as well. The 6 trans will be a wear item at that point and the good trans solutions for the miata cost about 3k for swaps. At that point everything is coming out anyway. It's not like I would have wasted any machine work etc, you know? While my goals may be ~275-300 to max out this current setup, the build with just swapping the rods is likely good to 325-350.

    If it honestly came to a point where I was thinking about 350-400+ hp in a miata, I would:
    A) Question my sanity, as anyone should.
    B) Consider selling off my entire drivetrain and do a honda swap. It'll be more expensive, but far more reliable. The LS swap is an order of magnitude more expensive than the honda swap so we'll see.

    TLDR:
    Goals are likely to max out current setup for 'high boost' setting and run lower than that 90%+ of the time
    'Rods only' build is good for 325-350 with a conservative tune. Detonation breaks everything though, even expensive forged pistons (vs the stock miata forged pistons).
    Going past current turbo setup's power capacity will be quite expensive and just wouldn't make any sense at all at any point in the near or near-distant future.
    I'm doing this mostly because I want to take apart an engine and learn. If I'm going through the trouble of it, might as well refresh it a bit and drop in some rods. Why waste all that time on a cheap busted motor I wouldn't want in my car ;)
     


  14. otc

    otc Senior member

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    Well, 4x that is still $400. Plus most people are going to pay for labor on that (I doubt too many people considering a prius are going to do their own work). And by then, you probably would have needed to do the rotors as well for more money...

    The margins on the analysis that BC was talking about are usually pretty slim. You pay a couple grand extra for the prius, and then you whittle away at that by saving a couple hundred bucks a year on gas. Saving even $400 cuts that payback period down a fair amount.

    If you start talking about the newer versions of the prius with plug in hybrid capabilities, it has the potential to improve even more. If you can drive 25 miles without using any gas, that means a lot of people's commutes or grocery runs become 100% electric. Gas is so cheap right now that it is tough to make this stuff add up...but I doubt gas is going to stay this cheap for too much longer.
     


  15. brokencycle

    brokencycle Senior member

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    Maybe gas won't stay this cheap for long. My point is that you pay a premium for your eco signaling with the Prius. There are other cars out there that get better highway mileage and there are hybrids that don't have the same premium. You could get a civic, accord, or camry hybrid.

    Are the Prius brakes actually better/last longer? Or is this somehow a fluke/they got replaced with factory parts before he bought the car.
     


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