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Carmina Shoes - Definitive Thread (reviews, advice, sizing, etc...)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by w.o.e.is.me., May 3, 2011.

  1. RogerP

    RogerP Senior member

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    That's one of the nicer shades of Cognac I have seen. Nice boots!
     
  2. scrolls

    scrolls Senior member

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    Hot damn those boots are sexy.
     
  3. Todd V

    Todd V Senior member

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    Nice boots. Were these spec'd as "light cognac?"
     
  4. Leaves

    Leaves Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    This was part of a large GMTO organized by Frankthesheep. It was made up in Cognac Cordovan. The first batch that was delivered came out light, the second a bit darker. According to Horween the lighter version is the standard Cognac, then they have a hue called Dark Cognac.

    According to some reports I've had from Carmina we might be looking at a long term Cordovan shortage, I have yet to learn if this will affect the Frankenstitch GMTO. But people should expect longer lead times for Cordovan MTO and GMTO in the next year or so.
     
  5. Mr. Six

    Mr. Six Senior member

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    Thanks, all. It is as Leaves said regarding the spec. Mine were part of the lighter batch. What you see is the result of many applications of Saphir brown cordovan cream and a lot of elbow grease. It will be interesting to see what happens with additional applications.
     
  6. Journeyman

    Journeyman Senior member

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    No shoe bags included??
     
  7. dddrees

    dddrees Senior member

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    Oh, this stinks. Thanks for the heads up though.
     
  8. agedashidofu

    agedashidofu Senior member

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    All the more reason why shoemakers need to find alternative sourcing for shells. I know a tannery in the UK called Joseph Clayton had started producing shells, though I haven't seen them made into shoes yet. Additionally, I feel that the new shells that I had ordered are not as high quality as the ones I had bought a couple of years ago (the older ones look much smoother and colors more consistent from batch to batch.)
     
  9. Leaves

    Leaves Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    I visited a Swedish tannery called Tärnsjö the other day. Their rep said that they had experimented with shell but with unsatisfactory results. He said the problem is the raw material, the density of the shell is much worse now than a few decades ago. He blamed this primarily on horses being bred up too quickly these days. I'm no expert so I can't comment on that specific statement, maybe someone with more experience of tanning could pitch in.
     
  10. agedashidofu

    agedashidofu Senior member

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    I did a bit of searching on Joseph Clayton shells on this forum and "stole" the below from the non alden shell thread. Again I'm not an expert but thought i'd share my findings below

    http://www.reddit.com/r/goodyearwelt/comments/1w67n7/shell_cordovan_shortage/?sort=old

    I have handled horween, clayton, and comipel shell. Not japanese/south american though.

    First off, horween is more than twice the price of the others, at 180 quid a shell vs 72 for clayton, and 90 or so for comipel. Horween shell is thick, with a kinda oily, glossy finish. It was pretty soft and flexible, but not overly so. One thing I noticed is that there were lot's of marks and scratches on the shell. This might have been because I ordered a dark colour (no 8), but I was expecting a smoother finish.

    Comipel shell was slightly thinner than horween, but the finish was absolutely perfect. Like, there was literally not a single mark on any of the shells. It feels really waxy, and firm, and has a more matte colour than horween.

    My personal favourite though, was clayton. It is very thin, making it super easy to stitch, though kinda inappropriate for footwear (they offer heavier grades, though I have no experience with those.). It has very little shine, but the surface is really smooth and buttery. I saw a few blemishes, but nothing serious. The depth of colour is fantastic, and there's some really heavy striations in the dye.

    Really, I guess my reasoning boils down to price and surface finish. Horween shell is nice (I mean, even crappy shell is a beautiful leather), but it's not that nice. I feel the major price increase is totally unsubstantiated. Also, it seems that due to increased demand, horween is loosening their qc. If comipel and clayton can make sure their shell meets certain standards, horween should too.
     
    2 people like this.
  11. RogerP

    RogerP Senior member

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    Oops wrong thread.
     
    Last edited: Mar 7, 2014
  12. Bakes11771

    Bakes11771 Senior member

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    I proposed this explanation in the Alden thread about 2 years ago, and it was scoffed at. I've come to realize that not everyone that appreciates nice shoes can understands elementary concepts of business, economics and manufacturing.
     
  13. NAMOR

    NAMOR Senior member

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    Navy shell bal boot. Shell is nice and thick

    [​IMG]
     
    5 people like this.
  14. Journeyman

    Journeyman Senior member

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    NAMOR, those are outstanding. Are they on the Robert or Forest last - and where did they come from?
     
  15. rc121

    rc121 Senior member

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    wow, look wonderful in the sunlight
     
  16. NAMOR

    NAMOR Senior member

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    thanks guys. boots are on the robert last. mto from carmina directly before the mto surcharge increased
     
  17. NAMOR

    NAMOR Senior member

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    i kind of forgot i had them so when I pulled them out today i remembered why they havent been worn for 8 months:

    [​IMG]

    after a little procedure of wipe, apply cream, apply venetian, bone, brush, wipe and voila:

    [​IMG]

    what i used

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Mar 7, 2014
    2 people like this.
  18. europrep

    europrep Senior member

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  19. RogerP

    RogerP Senior member

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    Love that navy shell.
     
  20. Pastor

    Pastor Senior member

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    I bought my Carmina MTO navy shell single monk after seeing your boots. The navy shell on my looks the same as yours after some hard wear. These Carminas are difficult to maintain a good shine. They look good when polished but it's work keeping them up.
     

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