Carmina Shoes - Definitive Thread (reviews, advice, sizing, etc...) - official thread.

[insy]

Current cognac today. Had some issues with dewey grass, so time for conditioning and a lot of brushing.
View attachment 822551

How do you feel about those white dots across the shoes? I really dislike them on my shell Norwegian, but perhaps its characteristic of Cordovan in general and must simply be accepted?

 

[peppercorn78]

How do you feel about those white dots across the shoes? I really dislike them on my shell Norwegian, but perhaps its characteristic of Cordovan in general and must simply be accepted?

Water welts are a way of life with shell cordovan. Embrace them!

 

[jet-stream]

How do you feel about those white dots across the shoes? I really dislike them on my shell Norwegian, but perhaps its characteristic of Cordovan in general and must simply be accepted?

Water welts are a way of life with shell cordovan. Embrace them!

As pep says, it's part of the deal with shell. With no exposure to water, they aren't there. These will be gone soon, but dew in the grass got me this time. Worsened by the fact I didn't notice immediately.

 

[Sandwich]

Walked by the NYC store today and looks like the storefront is up, but no way to see the interior. Anyone have any updates on the grand opening?

 

[Lukeoto]

Hello everyone! This is my first post, so I'll just dive into it...

Winter is coming, and I'm looking to buy a pair of MTO Carmina's to help my feet endure it. The problem is, of course, that I don't already own any Carminas, nor have I tried any on - hence I lack references as so which last and size I should go for. With MTO:s being non-refundable, it's obviously extra important to get it right the first time. Here's the shoe I've put together in their editor:

Model: DERBY SHOES 730
Toe cap: Brown vegano
Vamp: Brown grein
Facing: Brown vegano
Heel: Brown grein
Counter: Brown vegano
Lining: Green calf
Last: ???
Sole: Tramuntana
Sole edge/type: Double sole with storm welt, black edges
Medallion: Without medallion
Eyelets: Blind
Laces: Round brown
Extra: My name on the lining
Special requests: Where there is brouging: only small brouging holes of the same size, with the same size and spacing as on Crockett & Jones "Drummond" model. (Is there any better way to explain this? I'm not sure they'll be able to comply, but then so be it.)

I'm fairly new to the wonderful world of quality shoes, and don't really get the whole size and width system. More specifically, I'm used to British width notations (D, E, F and G from narrow to extra wide). Here are my sizes in other shoes:

Crockett & Jones 236: UK 10F
Crockett & Jones 348: UK 10,5E (10F also fits well, but is not available in all models)
Vass P2: EU 45
Loake Capital: UK 10F
Loake 026: UK 10F
Meermin Olfe: UK 10,5E (ever so slightly long, but they don't make Meermins in UK F width).

All my shoes fit good, but especially the shoes I have in UK 10F fit splendid. From what I read online, consensus seems to be that Carmina fits pretty much true to size(?). I haven't had my feet measured properly on a brannock device, though, so I don't really know my 'true size'. I've searched and read about what sizes other people wear in Carmina compared to other manufacturers, searching for my identical foot twin, but am none the wiser. Whenever I find one forumite in one corner of the web (like in this thread) that seems to have feet similar to mine, and hear his recommendation about Carmina size - the next minute I find another foot-twin candidate who says something different, making me reconsider.

Right now, I guess it comes down to either getting for instance the Llubi last in size UK 10, seeing as how it's wide fitting (or so I hear) - though I'm afraid it will be too wide. (UK 10 G is too wide for me). Or, perhaps I should go for a more narrow last (but which one?) and size UK 10,5. I do like to be hugged tightly at the heel, but I also need my "F width space" where the foot is at its widest. (As my Meermin shoes in 10,5E are ever so slightly long, I tried to put in leather heel inserts, but that just made the shoes uncomfortable and my feet hurt so they had to be removed.)

Now I turn to you with my conundrum, Styleforum. Any advice for a puzzled newcomer?

 

[PatchedUp]

Just received these beauties exactly a month after I placed my order.

Green repello and tanned boxcalf Balmorals (80092) with a plain cap toe on the Rain last.

Couldn't be happier and arrived considerably sooner than I anticipated. Extremely happy Carmina!

 

[PatchedUp]

Hello everyone! This is my first post, so I'll just dive into it...

Winter is coming, and I'm looking to buy a pair of MTO Carmina's to help my feet endure it. The problem is, of course, that I don't already own any Carminas, nor have I tried any on - hence I lack references as so which last and size I should go for. With MTO:s being non-refundable, it's obviously extra important to get it right the first time. Here's the shoe I've put together in their editor:

Model: DERBY SHOES 730
Toe cap: Brown vegano
Vamp: Brown grein
Facing: Brown vegano
Heel: Brown grein
Counter: Brown vegano
Lining: Green calf
Last: ???
Sole: Tramuntana
Sole edge/type: Double sole with storm welt, black edges
Medallion: Without medallion
Eyelets: Blind
Laces: Round brown
Extra: My name on the lining
Special requests: Where there is brouging: only small brouging holes of the same size, with the same size and spacing as on Crockett & Jones "Drummond" model. (Is there any better way to explain this? I'm not sure they'll be able to comply, but then so be it.)

I'm fairly new to the wonderful world of quality shoes, and don't really get the whole size and width system. More specifically, I'm used to British width notations (D, E, F and G from narrow to extra wide). Here are my sizes in other shoes:

Crockett & Jones 236: UK 10F
Crockett & Jones 348: UK 10,5E (10F also fits well, but is not available in all models)
Vass P2: EU 45
Loake Capital: UK 10F
Loake 026: UK 10F
Meermin Olfe: UK 10,5E (ever so slightly long, but they don't make Meermins in UK F width).

All my shoes fit good, but especially the shoes I have in UK 10F fit splendid. From what I read online, consensus seems to be that Carmina fits pretty much true to size(?). I haven't had my feet measured properly on a brannock device, though, so I don't really know my 'true size'. I've searched and read about what sizes other people wear in Carmina compared to other manufacturers, searching for my identical foot twin, but am none the wiser. Whenever I find one forumite in one corner of the web (like in this thread) that seems to have feet similar to mine, and hear his recommendation about Carmina size - the next minute I find another foot-twin candidate who says something different, making me reconsider.

Right now, I guess it comes down to either getting for instance the Llubi last in size UK 10, seeing as how it's wide fitting (or so I hear) - though I'm afraid it will be too wide. (UK 10 G is too wide for me). Or, perhaps I should go for a more narrow last (but which one?) and size UK 10,5. I do like to be hugged tightly at the heel, but I also need my "F width space" where the foot is at its widest. (As my Meermin shoes in 10,5E are ever so slightly long, I tried to put in leather heel inserts, but that just made the shoes uncomfortable and my feet hurt so they had to be removed.)

Now I turn to you with my conundrum, Styleforum. Any advice for a puzzled newcomer?

From my personal experience Carmina fits true to size, particularly the Rain last. I take a C&J 358 in a 10E (E being standard width) which is ever so slightly wide for me but not wide enough to go down. On a Carmina shoe, I would take a 10EE for the Rain (Inca fits similarly for me) and fits perfectly.

Not exactly like for like I realise, but hopefully should give you some guidance.

 

[MrUnderwood]

@Lukeoto @PatchedUp i would like to co-sign on the Carmina (rain last) fit true to size in my personal experience as well.

 

[Roger la Rock]

Lukeoto, for this type of shoe I would l look at the UK makers. Trickers in particular are known for sturdy country shoes, also other makers like Alfred Sargent, C & J, and Loake do this type of shoe. If you can't find what you like in the stock options, suppliers like the Shoe Healer and Pediwear have their own make ups.

Carmina are known for the elegant lasts of their dress shoes. It appears they will make you a pair of country shoes but it is not what they generally do. I would think it is better to get this type of shoe from someone who specialises in it, and use Carmina for something dressier. I would definitely try a stock model before going MTO.

If you want to go Carmina, be aware that wide is relative to their other lasts. I have Rain, Inca and Llubi, and Inca is the only one I would call wide. Rain is significantly narrower than Loake Capital; I take 7.5 in Capital and 8 in Rain. Inca is closer to Capital, but still slightly narrower. Llubi has a roomier toe box, but I found it tighter around the vamp (ball of the foot) than Rain. Also Llubi has a bulbous toe which is fine in boots, but is not something that I personally would want in a pair of shoes.

 

[john sherdy]

Sharing some inspiration from my recent pickup from the Palma store. Modell 737 double monks on the Philadelphia last in something explained to me as goat leather. It's very soft to the touch, far from the sturdiness of grain and thickness of the normal vegano calf. Apparently called "Jumilla" but i simple go with calling it burgundy grain goat (Perhaps @Carmina can pitch in and correct if wrong) It has this crazy smooth subtle grain structure that really caused all boxes to be ticked and me to reach for the wallet. Somewhat pricier than regular calf at 400 Euro.

Looks really nice. Good quality and QC is really top

 

[Lukeoto]

Lukeoto, for this type of shoe I would l look at the UK makers. Trickers in particular are known for sturdy country shoes, also other makers like Alfred Sargent, C & J, and Loake do this type of shoe. If you can't find what you like in the stock options, suppliers like the Shoe Healer and Pediwear have their own make ups.

Carmina are known for the elegant lasts of their dress shoes. It appears they will make you a pair of country shoes but it is not what they generally do. I would think it is better to get this type of shoe from someone who specialises in it, and use Carmina for something dressier. I would definitely try a stock model before going MTO.

If you want to go Carmina, be aware that wide is relative to their other lasts. I have Rain, Inca and Llubi, and Inca is the only one I would call wide. Rain is significantly narrower than Loake Capital; I take 7.5 in Capital and 8 in Rain. Inca is closer to Capital, but still slightly narrower. Llubi has a roomier toe box, but I found it tighter around the vamp (ball of the foot) than Rain. Also Llubi has a bulbous toe which is fine in boots, but is not something that I personally would want in a pair of shoes.

Hey @Roger la Rock, and thanks for the reply!
You are probably right in recommending 'saving' Carmina for something dressier. I guess I am so tempted because they have such an easy webpage for making MTO shoes, and I have such a specific idea about what I want. I have looked at Trickers, but their models (including the Pediwear-branded) are so very robust. Silly as it sounds, I'm thinking more along the lines of 'james bond goes hiking'. I will keep this advice in mind though as it's hard to argue against getting a special item from a specialist, so I'm not sure I'll go for the Carmina MTO in this design after all. Also, thanks for the sizing info! To me that translates to another vote for 10,5 in my case.

From my personal experience Carmina fits true to size, particularly the Rain last. I take a C&J 358 in a 10E (E being standard width) which is ever so slightly wide for me but not wide enough to go down. On a Carmina shoe, I would take a 10EE for the Rain (Inca fits similarly for me) and fits perfectly.

Thanks, @PatchedUp and @MrUnderwood! Also: beautiful boots!
In "UK" widths, does EE translate into F? I've looked at the sizing chart at Skoaktiebolaget here, but still don't get wheter D, M or E or EE is the most close to UK F.

Also attatching a slightly sloppy photoshop of what I'm looking for, just to help the mind visualize.

 

[PatchedUp]

Thanks @Lukeoto, the photos don't really do the boots justice.

It is my understanding that EE translates to an F but I could be wrong, it certainly seems to be for me anyway.

 

[peppercorn78]

Thanks @Lukeoto, the photos don't really do the boots justice.

It is my understanding that EE translates to an F but I could be wrong, it certainly seems to be for me anyway.

I definitely find this not to be the case with Carmina. I wear an F or G in all U.K. Brands, H in European brands, and E, or EE, or EEE in American Brands.

They call Rain and Detroit "EE" but in my experience, they are simply standard width lasts that are on the roomier side (like Alden Barrie). I have tried the wider "EEE" versions of these two and even then Rain is too narrow for me. Most of the extra width seems to go to the waist and heel.

Detroit wide, however, works quite well for me. I have three pairs of Carmina using this last.

Would also recommend either going for Trickers, Alden, or even Vass for something like what OP is looking for. Best!

 

[PatchedUp]

I definitely find this not to be the case with Carmina. I wear an F or G in all U.K. Brands, H in European brands, and E, or EE, or EEE in American Brands.

They call Rain and Detroit "EE" but in my experience, they are simply standard width lasts that are on the roomier side (like Alden Barrie). I have tried the wider "EEE" versions of these two and even then Rain is too narrow for me. Most of the extra width seems to go to the waist and heel.

Detroit wide, however, works quite well for me. I have three pairs of Carmina using this last.

Would also recommend either going for Trickers, Alden, or even Vass for something like what OP is looking for. Best!

With F being a "standard" UK width (rather than the standard for EG, C&J etc. for which E would be their standard) , would that not confirm what you are saying above, that EE is equivalent to F?

 

[beargonefishing]

Hey @Roger la Rock, and thanks for the reply!
You are probably right in recommending 'saving' Carmina for something dressier. I guess I am so tempted because they have such an easy webpage for making MTO shoes, and I have such a specific idea about what I want. I have looked at Trickers, but their models (including the Pediwear-branded) are so very robust. Silly as it sounds, I'm thinking more along the lines of 'james bond goes hiking'. I will keep this advice in mind though as it's hard to argue against getting a special item from a specialist, so I'm not sure I'll go for the Carmina MTO in this design after all. Also, thanks for the sizing info! To me that translates to another vote for 10,5 in my case.


Thanks, @PatchedUp and @MrUnderwood! Also: beautiful boots!
In "UK" widths, does EE translate into F? I've looked at the sizing chart at Skoaktiebolaget here, but still don't get wheter D, M or E or EE is the most close to UK F.

Also attatching a slightly sloppy photoshop of what I'm looking for, just to help the mind visualize. View attachment 824388

Cobbler Union has an Oxford similar to what you are looking for.