The Uniform/LA Lennon Loose Fit jeans drop is now live! Check out both the light Palms and dark Lithium Both are made from premium Japanese right hand 3x1 denim in the USA,. Uniform/LA is know for premium materials and meticulous pattern making. Support a small business built on quality and integrity.
STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.
Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.
Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!
Styleforum is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. Please support us by using them. You may learn more here.
Fantastic thread with some beautiful shoes !! Anyone with both Carmina's and Edward Greens care to comment on how they stack up against each other? I'm in the market for a couple of pairs of shoes and was just going to get EG's job done but after all the recent instances of "bad press" i'm thinking if Carmina is anywhere near the quality i may just let them have my hard earned. I know it can be a very subjective subject but any thoughts would be helpful.
Shoes i have in mind is calf brown double monks & brogue (EG would be Westminster & Inverness).
A quick search of sf posts on Carmina pulls up posts from old hands like Ken Pollock putting the quality somewhere around C&J benchgrade and Peals for BB. 4-5 years later, has the quality really gotten that much better to almost EG standards in terms of craftsmanship/leather? That seems to be a pretty big leap to get from C&J mid-tier to EG quality . . . I remember that I was never really into the lasts when I saw them at BG or Barneys - but the lasts seem to have improved, perhaps the craftsmanship/leather quality has as well.
Technically speaking Goodyear welted refers to a process which typically involves gemming. Any shoe that is advertised as being Goodyear welted should be suspected of using gemming.
The original Goodyear welted shoe relied on a rather complex and not very functional method of cutting two channels in a leather insole and folding them up perpendicular to the surface of the insole. I am not sure how many factories still use this method but it was more or less abandoned in favour of the gemming years ago. I would suspect that there are not many machines left that can cut and fold the channnels.
But the term Goodyear welted" is based on the a machine invented by a fellow named Goodyear. It requires a standing rib of some sort.
Nine times out of ten if it is Goodyear Welted it is gemmed.
There are also machines that can channel an insole and sew an inseam much like a hand welted inseam would be done. It is my understanding that this method is not "Goodyear welted" however. It is something else again. The machines that do this are few and far between and are difficult to control especially on narrow toes.
Vass is hand-welted...they are not Goodyear welted. If someone says they are, they are misusing the terminology--I read the book, cover to cover.
Thanks! Where can I get the "book" you were referring to, or any decent shoe textbook (no idea where you would find that) would do