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daisybay

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As has been pointed out shell often results in slightly different shades between panels (more pronounced in direct light), but ideally the clicking should be done so that the left and right shoe are generally consistent with each other, even if within a shoe itself there is variation. You can see the shell boots I'm wearing today (from another maker but worn in honor of the shell mismatch theme discussed here) have different panel shades but they match across left and right foot.
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I have another pair from Carmina where the two shoes are entirely different colors -- these were sold as seconds :lol:
View attachment 2315317
Wow no kidding! Those second pair looks quite different! Also is the first pair Aldens? With the exception of the welt/outsole, the vamp eyelets etc look just like my jcrew alden PCT
 

KarlHungus

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Wow no kidding! Those second pair looks quite different! Also is the first pair Aldens? With the exception of the welt/outsole, the vamp eyelets etc look just like my jcrew alden PCT
Yes Alden. It is the perf toe model for Leffot, also sometimes called the Naval boot.
 

Pascal1980

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Hello everybody,

a short question: Why do some of you write about negative quality control experiences? Is it really that much worse than the, in my experience excellent, quality control e.g. of Crockett & Jones or other high-end British shoe manufacturers that I visited and tested on Jermyn Street and here in Frankfurt?

I only had once a broken welt stitching at the tip of the toe, and the same for an TLB Mallorca Artista oxford, which can happen.

Best regards

Pascal
 

TheLawBeard

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Hello everybody,

a short question: Why do some of you write about negative quality control experiences? Is it really that much worse than the, in my experience excellent, quality control e.g. of Crockett & Jones or other high-end British shoe manufacturers that I visited and tested on Jermyn Street and here in Frankfurt?

I only had once a broken welt stitching at the tip of the toe, and the same for an TLB Mallorca Artista oxford, which can happen.

Best regards

Pascal
I’ll say this- none of them are perfect. I’ve detailed my Carmina QC issue sometime back in this thread. Short version- they sent me a pair of MTO shell where the shell on the toes was super rough and noticeable from eye level. A story associate advocated for me and got a remake. The remake was a drastically different color and I ended up having a dye artist have a go at them.

Although I feel like C&J makes better quality shoes- they aren’t perfect either. Visited the Jermyn street location about a month back to get sized. Two pairs in the same material and same size fit drastically different. Happened with two different models. One felt a half size difference between the pairs. The other felt about a quarter size difference between the pairs. A different pair was as comfortable as any boots I’ve ever worn. (Slightly regret not purchasing but way too much overlap there). The same material but different color? Did not feel the same at all.
 

Pascal1980

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I’ll say this- none of them are perfect. I’ve detailed my Carmina QC issue sometime back in this thread. Short version- they sent me a pair of MTO shell where the shell on the toes was super rough and noticeable from eye level. A story associate advocated for me and got a remake. The remake was a drastically different color and I ended up having a dye artist have a go at them.

Although I feel like C&J makes better quality shoes- they aren’t perfect either. Visited the Jermyn street location about a month back to get sized. Two pairs in the same material and same size fit drastically different. Happened with two different models. One felt a half size difference between the pairs. The other felt about a quarter size difference between the pairs. A different pair was as comfortable as any boots I’ve ever worn. (Slightly regret not purchasing but way too much overlap there). The same material but different color? Did not feel the same at all.
Hello TheLawBeard,

then I am lucky that something like this so far never happened to me. Except for a stitch not perfectly alligned, or the welt joint not perfectly smooth, everything finde. The broken welts at the tips of the toes were the only real mishap I experienced so far.

Good luck with your shoes and best regards

Pascal
 
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would the C&J models you tried Conistons in Tan vs Dark Brown by chance. Iv noticed issues with sizes also. To be fair, the shoes are hand made so will have variations.
 

TheLawBeard

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would the C&J models you tried Conistons in Tan vs Dark Brown by chance. Iv noticed issues with sizes also. To be fair, the shoes are hand made so will have variations.
Yes. However, two pairs of tan weren't consistent with each other. And neither felt like the brown. The shell Harlechs I tried on were also inconsitent.
 

JTMD

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Cap-toe Oxfords in Burgundy Shell Cordovan on the Oscar last today...

20250117_153041.jpg


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20250117_150625.jpg
 

rob g

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Yes. However, two pairs of tan weren't consistent with each other. And neither felt like the brown. The shell Harlechs I tried on were also inconsitent.
I wish I could find a pair of C&J Islays that fit a quarter size smaller than standard uk8.5...would fit me like a glove!
 
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I have a labelled coniston uk9.5 in tan which fits my 27 cm feet really well. I bought a bought a dark brown coniston which was way to large eg half to full size too large for my feet. Had to sell them. I'm going to carefully try again. Noting the chances of returning the boots due to sizing is very much on the cards. Il be looking a coniston in a uk9.0 in dark brown. Iv ordered a cameria uk 9 in the Oscar last as they have a sale now on a few models.
 

vmss

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These Snuff suede Carmina String loafers were the second pair of Carminas I purchased back in 2016. They’re still holding up remarkably well and remain among my most comfortable shoes. The color is also the perfect shade for the spring and summer seasons.
 

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Pascal1980

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@Carmina : Is there likely to be another MTO-Week in March or so?

I am looking for a swan-neck oxford with a medallion in tan vegano for the summer
Also a burgundy vegano & navy suede balmoral boot would be great.

The classic French two-eyelet derby is on my wishlist.

Thanks and best regards

Pascal
 

JUAN MANUEL

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Hello daisybay,

thanks for your compliment. I appreciate it.

I cannot say anything about Alden, as I never tried their shoes. I just saw their boots in a mens fashion store in Hamburg. They looked comparable to my "Luzern" boots from HD.

The thickness of the leather has not necessarily something to do with "quality", however it is defined, but is a stylistic choice made by the shoe maker. Thinner leathers are more pliable and often softer, albeit not necessarily as durable as thicker leathers.

If you like the "Inca" last from Carmina, go for it. I liked it as well when trying their lasts in the Paris store.

I looked up out of curiosity the wage differences between Inca on Mallorca in Spain, where TLB Mallorca and Carmina are based, and Northhampton in the UK where C&J is based. The average salary in Inca on Mallorca is 28,000€, and the average salary in Northhamptonshire is 34,000 GBP, or around 40,800€. That is already a 40% difference of higher salaries in Northhamptonshire than in Inca on Mallorca. As around 50% of a shoe's manufacturing costs are labor costs, this explains already roughly a price difference of 20%. Another difference is that the quality control in the production process of C&J is supposed to be better, more labour intensive, with a more diligent final quality control and finishing of the shoes before they are shipped to the customer or retail stores. That adds another few percentage points of price difference to the higher prices of C&J compared to the Spanish-based shoemakers. Then add a little bit of higher costs for "British shoe heritage" to C&J compared to the Spanish brands, and maybe a little bit better raw materials and you have easily a price difference of 30% to 40% of C&J benchgrade shoes compared to the shoes manufactured in Inca on Mallorca by Carmina and TLB Mallorca.

Then take the average salary of just ~1,200€ per month in Budapest, or ~14,400€ per year, and you get a perspective in which way hand-made shoes from Vass in Budapest can be manufactured relativly cheaper compared to the shoes manufactured in Spain or Northhampton. The average salary in Budapest is only half of what is paid in Inca on Mallorca and a third of what is paid in Northhamptonshire.

Enjoy your evening and best regards

Pascal

Thank you for the detailed comments / answers, have a great day.
 

NORE

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so I know there’s talk often on here about mismatched cordovan and every time it seems people say “that’s not a flaw, that’s a feature,” but I’m curious if you’ll still say that about these.

I bought a pair of natural shell cordovan longings back in 2018. When they arrived, the colors didn’t match, but Carmina told me they will even out over time

It’s 2025 and the left shoe has gotten even more 2-toned than when it arrived

I didn’t order a 2-toned left shoe and single-tone right shoe

I know it’s been years, but I feel like if I walked in to the Carmina store a few blocks from my office, they might say “that doesn’t look right”

Or will they just say “sorry, too bad?”

View attachment 2314857
They gave you a real Hollywood answer with the, 'give it time' nonsense. You only have 1 job now. To come up with the most ridiculous reply encompassing the, 'I gave it 7 years...now what?' You need to do this in person. I'm in NYC and will gladly come along and film it.

If it makes you feel any better, I once bought a pair of Tims and they were mismatched:
1000007907.jpg
 

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