Pascal1980
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- Sep 27, 2023
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Hello everybody,
a colleague asked me about my experience with the different mid-tier shoemakers. Here is what I think:
I am familiar mostly with Crockett & Jones (C&J) and Heinrich-Dinkelacker (HD), because they are easily accessible here in Frankfurt am Main, Germany, in the higher-level shoe stores. The quality is the same, albeit the styles are very different. C&J is on average 100€ more expensive than HD, because HD now produces in Spain. HD has by far more derbies and derby boots, the typical German-Hungarian-Austrian styles, than C%J. Also HD has the wider lasts "Buda", "Rio", "Genf", "Zürich", and particularly "Janosh" and "Janosh K" in the very wide "K" width.
TLB Mallorca and Carmina I tried as well. Carmina has nowadays also retailers in Germany, like the mens' fashion store "Anton Meyer" or so with the Carmina oxfords and boots. Hence Carmina is also easily accessible here in Germany similar to C&J and HD. Carmina has more styles and lasts than any of the other mid-tier shoe makers and is in terms of quality similar. The Carmina store in Paris is also close by, 3.5h by train, and I was there with my girlfriend before Christmas to try different lasts.
The TLB Mallorca Artista line is very nice, only accessile online, and offers are very high quality for the price. If the three lasts they offer fit you, they are a good choice.
Therefore it comes down to accessibility, the fit of the lasts, and which styles you prefer. I think C&J is still in terms of the upper leathers, which are more supple, still a notch better, but up to 100€ to 200€ more expensive in their benchgrade shoes than Carmina, TLB Mallorca and HD.
Hence the quality in terms of stiching of the uppers, welts etc. are comparable and high, with the differences being stylistic choices made by the shoe makers.
So C&J, HD, Carmina, TLB Mallorca Artista Line, Vass and Enzo Nonafe I would put into the mid-tier shoe makers that are interesting with a good value-to-money relationship I think.
If you have wide feet, HD offers you the broadest range of lasts and styles. If you like oxfords, the TLB Mallorca Artista Line has the largest range of styles. Carmina has the most extensive and flexible MTO customization program and are therefore a very interesting choice in their MTO promotions in March and October/November without the upcharge for the customization. C&J is classic British with more casual boots, loafers and country derbies nowadays
Enzo Bonafe I do not have ever seen. Edward Green I tried here in a mens clothing boutique and their lasts do not fit me well, also they are overpriced compared to CJ handgrade. VASS is also difficult to assess, either online only or by visiting their store in Budapest.
My girlfried liked the stiching of Carmina better for instance than of CJ benchgrade, and looked at the edges of the leather, which was better at Carmina than CJ. We were surprised to see that. Also my cobbler, Alexander Dohn, says that Carmina is similar in quality to CJ, and then also TLB Mallorca Artista as well.
Best regards
Pascal
a colleague asked me about my experience with the different mid-tier shoemakers. Here is what I think:
I am familiar mostly with Crockett & Jones (C&J) and Heinrich-Dinkelacker (HD), because they are easily accessible here in Frankfurt am Main, Germany, in the higher-level shoe stores. The quality is the same, albeit the styles are very different. C&J is on average 100€ more expensive than HD, because HD now produces in Spain. HD has by far more derbies and derby boots, the typical German-Hungarian-Austrian styles, than C%J. Also HD has the wider lasts "Buda", "Rio", "Genf", "Zürich", and particularly "Janosh" and "Janosh K" in the very wide "K" width.
TLB Mallorca and Carmina I tried as well. Carmina has nowadays also retailers in Germany, like the mens' fashion store "Anton Meyer" or so with the Carmina oxfords and boots. Hence Carmina is also easily accessible here in Germany similar to C&J and HD. Carmina has more styles and lasts than any of the other mid-tier shoe makers and is in terms of quality similar. The Carmina store in Paris is also close by, 3.5h by train, and I was there with my girlfriend before Christmas to try different lasts.
The TLB Mallorca Artista line is very nice, only accessile online, and offers are very high quality for the price. If the three lasts they offer fit you, they are a good choice.
Therefore it comes down to accessibility, the fit of the lasts, and which styles you prefer. I think C&J is still in terms of the upper leathers, which are more supple, still a notch better, but up to 100€ to 200€ more expensive in their benchgrade shoes than Carmina, TLB Mallorca and HD.
Hence the quality in terms of stiching of the uppers, welts etc. are comparable and high, with the differences being stylistic choices made by the shoe makers.
So C&J, HD, Carmina, TLB Mallorca Artista Line, Vass and Enzo Nonafe I would put into the mid-tier shoe makers that are interesting with a good value-to-money relationship I think.
If you have wide feet, HD offers you the broadest range of lasts and styles. If you like oxfords, the TLB Mallorca Artista Line has the largest range of styles. Carmina has the most extensive and flexible MTO customization program and are therefore a very interesting choice in their MTO promotions in March and October/November without the upcharge for the customization. C&J is classic British with more casual boots, loafers and country derbies nowadays
Enzo Bonafe I do not have ever seen. Edward Green I tried here in a mens clothing boutique and their lasts do not fit me well, also they are overpriced compared to CJ handgrade. VASS is also difficult to assess, either online only or by visiting their store in Budapest.
My girlfried liked the stiching of Carmina better for instance than of CJ benchgrade, and looked at the edges of the leather, which was better at Carmina than CJ. We were surprised to see that. Also my cobbler, Alexander Dohn, says that Carmina is similar in quality to CJ, and then also TLB Mallorca Artista as well.
Best regards
Pascal