Using the pinch test that I read on this forum, I checked the two suits I mentioned above. I pinched above the pocket area in the chest and also the bottom of the jacket, just beside the pockets. The result: I felt the wool layer (no thicker than the sleeve area), an interlayer, and the lining layer. I read on this forum that Collezioni suits are fused. The Barney's suit that I tested is made in Japan where I live, and lists for about two thirds the price of a Collezioni suit. Am I doing the pinch test wrong? I don't think so because I have tested fused suits before and they feel very different (Cerruti and Zegna Soft). Could these suits really be canvas suits, even if they are machine sewn? Please help clarify. Thanks.