Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by jefferyd, Oct 7, 2011.
Very instructive, it's always great to learn! thanks for sharing
Been wondering about this for a while, thanks for something so comprehensive. And I think a strand of horse hair came out my coat this morning oddly enough.
(Disclaimer: I don't know if it's phenomenal enough to warrant the price on the tag, but since it was deeply discounted, I don't care.)
This has been a great thread - thanks for writing this impartial point of view "Cliffs Notes" for us Jeffery.
Jefferyd, would you mind commenting on the breaking in of canvassed jackets? I have a blazer that feels fantastic now but took a while to break in. Any tips on speeding up the break in process? Thanks.
I don't really subscribe to the idea that a garment should require breaking in.
I'm glad to hear to check the bottom of a coat for full canvassing. Thanks!
For a variety of reasons, I think that this thread should be about construction techniques without referencing any particular brands (i.e. is this brand or that brand full canvas or not?) Please refer any brand-specific questions to a different thread, or, ideally retailer or rep who is familiar with those brands.
I will clean up some of the previous posts that refer to specific brands.
Thank you so much for posting this. To me, half-canvass construction is one of them hardest things to understand in this trade.
Sorry for the OT. Do you have any recommendations for sources of good quality material used for canvassing you mentioned? I would love to supply these to my tailors when I have them make my garments.
Most tailors will use different weights of canvas depending on the weight of the cloth so it's best to let your tailor do his own sourcing. Otherwise you could try B Black and Sons or Richard James Weldon.
Appreciate it, I will check those out. I also enjoyed peaking through your blog. I have a fascination with suit crafting, there is so much too it when you start digging - unbelievable. I have lots to learn .
Can we talk about the bridal tape along the roll line? Is it really needed for soft constructed suits? On my heavier things you can feel where it is holding in the chest piece relative to the canvas, as in the canvas goes past the bridal tape and into the lapel. On my softer stuff it doesn't really seem to support the roll of the lapel and there is almost no difference in thickness between the chest and lapel.
So, why does it need to be there? Can the chest piece just be either padstitched, or zigzagged right to the canvas leaving the edge free?
The principal function of the bridle tape is actually to draw the roll line close to the chest- it is pulled tight as it is basted, shrinking the roll line a bit to prevent gaping, so yes, it does need to be there, even in a completely unstructured garment.
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