Can't quite get this right - pants with bow legs

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by nekostyle, Jun 19, 2016.

  1. nekostyle

    nekostyle Active Member

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    Folks could I get some opinions on the fit of these MTM pants please?

    I have fairly pronounced bow-legs and tailor has made some adjustments (including shifting the crease 1cm inwards when viewed from the front. Confuses the hell out of dry-cleaners but has dramatically improved the break).

    Can't quite get the left leg right though.
    Yes I have strange posture - leaning forward - that really is a natural stance for me so suit balance is typically an issue.



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  2. mensimageconsultant

    mensimageconsultant Senior member

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    Putting aside likely locked knees and less-than-ideal camera angle, It looks weird, mainly due to the seeming very short tibia. In the future, the best solution might be to get pants with very little creasing.
     
  3. nekostyle

    nekostyle Active Member

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    Thanks - creases will ease but I'm keen to understand what the structural issue is. Any thoughts on adjustments I can put through on these pants to make them less "weird"?

    Also if there is a better camera angle let me know and I can send again. I just put the camera on the dining table and hit go...
     
  4. mensimageconsultant

    mensimageconsultant Senior member

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    That was an indirect way of saying there's probably no more tailoring that can be done. Unless that was just a dry-cleaner - an alterations tailor might have more knowledge.
     
  5. nekostyle

    nekostyle Active Member

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    Thanks - any thoughts from the tailors in the forum on what I can do with the next pair to avoid this issue?
     
  6. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Issue seems more about prominent calves creating a bow effect.
    The adjustment required on finished trousers is to open the entire length of the outseam and inseam. You have to separate each of the 4 panels of the trouser. The front part is shifted downwards at the knee notch on the outseam. This makes the outseam longer to accommodate the length needed for the curvature of your leg.
    The front knee notch is moved up/above the knee notch on the inseam of the back part. This shortens the inseam and straightens the inner line of the leg. You also need a bigger circumference around the knee and calf.

    Think of the front panel as a plane you are rotating to make the outseam longer/inseam shorter. ( ) This is the shape of a bow leg. You need extra length over the outside curve and less length on the inside of the curve. This makes the leg look straight.

    Its not a big deal but takes some time so that means it's going to cost. You also need someone who knows what to do.

    The result can vary because you are limited by working on a finished garment compared to cutting a trouser and being able to make this adjustments during cutting and before construction. In other words, altering may get you 50 to 80% better but maybe not as good as if the trouser was made with the necessary adjustments. Changing the crease has a small cosmetic effect but isn't changing the drape of the trouser leg.

    You have a high right hip that needs to be adjusted for and need a straight back to clean up the wrinkles along the back part of the trouser.

    Technical explanation from a technician
     
    Last edited: Jun 25, 2016
  7. nekostyle

    nekostyle Active Member

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    Despos you are a gentleman and a scholar (and a tailor too, of course). Very much appreciated.

    My local tailor in Tokyo pushed back on these ideas - probably because I didn't translate them into Japanese well - but I am going to look further afield to get this done right.
     

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