Canclini Fabric

[Galix]

Hi guys!

I have a question for the experts on fabrics or those with experience. Is a Canclini "weft 60/1 warp 90/2" good? I know Canclini it's an outstanding fabric producer, but I'm used to associate a good fabric to at least 100s (that's because I'm a newbie, of course). Plus, does that difference between weft and warp that the shirt (labeled as Poplin) is not a 2-ply one?

 

[Shirtmaven]

cotton shirt fabric construction has changed in the last 5 years.

to keep cost down, mills are using single ply "compact" construction.
what does this mean?
a lot more threads per inch.

you can buy the shirt with confidence that you are getting good fabric.
Canclini finishes their fabric very well.

the exact same construction from a different mill may not be as nice.
mill #2 may be using inferior raw cotton and may not be using the same quality finishing products.

 

[CrimsonWave]

Greetings. I have three shirts from Canclini: a white twill, one from the College range, and one from the Squire range. According to their website, the Squire is indeed 60/1 and 90/2, and the pattern was printed on both sides. The fabric feels softer than my Acorn Tudor (2/100's x 2/100's). I've only worn it about five times or more, so I cannot comment on durability.

 

[CrimsonWave]

Update: I have since spoken to the person who sold me the Canclini shirts, who also has a stake in the Canclini mill and was trained in fabrics. He explained that using fewer threads on the weft helps to keep the weight down, which makes it more suitable for warmer climates. He also showed me another catalogue from a different mill. It had some double twisted 180s zendaline, but I couldn't find a design I liked from this range. I ended up choosing a fabric that had a glossy finish which reminded me of the Jermyn range from the Monti Prince Rose book.

 

[Napolitano]

I prefer some Canclini fabrics to Alumo´s. Have better silky touch but yes, only for Summer use, to light.

 

[Shirtmaven]

Antek turns out an excellent product

not sure if the "zedelyne" is comparable to what was turned out 10-15 years ago