Canali formal trouser alteration

[lowlander]

I have a pair of formal Canali trousers that have an 8 inch hem opening. I would prefer to have an 8.5 inch opening to allow for at least a half break and am curious about how easy an alteration this would be. There is half an inch of material on one side of the inside seams on both legs but no extra material on the outside seams (so if the alteration is possible it must be done letting out the inside seams only). I don't know whether this is possible without throwing the crease off centre.

Is this possible? Easy? How should I instruct?

Many thanks.

 

[breakaway01]

If you want to have a trouser break the typical alteration is to lengthen the trouser leg, not to increase the leg opening. Increasing the hem opening will not increase the trouser break. So if you want to have more trouser break, you want to see how much extra material is inside the hem, not along the seams.
If you still want to increase the leg opening, sounds like you do not have enough to go up to 8.5 inches. You need a little material to sew the seam back together after opening it up. You should be able to increase it to 8.25 inches or so. With such a small increase on one side, I think simply re-pressing the crease will work.

 

[lowlander]

If you want to have a trouser break the typical alteration is to lengthen the trouser leg, not to increase the leg opening. Increasing the hem opening will not increase the trouser break. So if you want to have more trouser break, you want to see how much extra material is inside the hem, not along the seams.
If you still want to increase the leg opening, sounds like you do not have enough to go up to 8.5 inches. You need a little material to sew the seam back together after opening it up. You should be able to increase it to 8.25 inches or so. With such a small increase on one side, I think simply re-pressing the crease will work.

Thanks for that.

In fact I want to increase the hem opening and lengthen the leg slightly. The hem opening also affects the appearance of the break - you can only have so much of a break with a narrow hem opening and I prefer a fuller break (when the back of the trouser almost reaches the heel of the shoe). That much of a break wouldn't work with a narrow leg opening.

8.5 would be ideal, but 8.25 is better than 8!

 

[breakaway01]

I see. You may also want to consider a military/slanted hem, in that case, to reduce the amount of break at the front of the leg. But this is all a matter of personal preference.

 

[lowlander]

I see. You may also want to consider a military/slanted hem, in that case, to reduce the amount of break at the front of the leg. But this is all a matter of personal preference.

It's an idea, but god forbid someone sees my sock!

 

[Tim Beasley]

Canali usually has enough let out to widen another 1/2 inch. However, you keep saying formal which I'm wondering if you're saying tuxedo trousers. If this is the case, and because of the satin or grosgrain trimming on the outseam, then you will only have the inside seam for let out.

Also, like my trousers at Gent Row, regular Canali trousers usually have pic stitching along the outseam therefor you will want to only let out within the inseam trouser, in this case, to avoid losing the pic stitching from alterations.

 

[lowlander]

Canali usually has enough let out to widen another 1/2 inch. However, you keep saying formal which I'm wondering if you're saying tuxedo trousers. If this is the case, and because of the satin or grosgrain trimming on the outseam, then you will only have the inside seam for let out.

Also, like my trousers at Gent Row, regular Canali trousers usually have pic stitching along the outseam therefor you will want to only let out within the inseam trouser, in this case, to avoid losing the pic stitching from alterations.

Thanks for that.

No, they aren't tuxedo trousers but suit trousers (formal as in not purple chinos).

There's actually about 3/4ths of an inch outlet on the back section of the inseam so I will get someone to let out as much as possible there. The outseam won't be touched as there's no material available.

 

[Tim Beasley]

Thanks for that.

No, they aren't tuxedo trousers but suit trousers (formal as in not purple chinos).

There's actually about 3/4ths of an inch outlet on the back section of the inseam so I will get someone to let out as much as possible there. The outseam won't be touched as there's no material available.

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Great! Best of luck!