Canali formal trouser alteration

[lowlander]

I have a pair of formal Canali trousers that have an 8 inch hem opening. I would prefer to have an 8.5 inch opening to allow for at least a half break and am curious about how easy an alteration this would be. There is half an inch of material on one side of the inside seams on both legs but no extra material on the outside seams (so if the alteration is possible it must be done letting out the inside seams only). I don't know whether this is possible without throwing the crease off centre.

Is this possible? Easy? How should I instruct?

Many thanks.

 

[Despos]

The outlet is on the inseam of the back part. Once it is let out you only change the crease of the back part. Front crease stays as is. If you have to instruct them, find someone more experienced.

 

[Aloysius16]

Coincidence - I posted the same question earlier.

The half inch inlay would get your hem open to 8.25" presumably, rather than the 8.5" you want.

 

[Despos]

A two-fer, one answer split between you both. Efficient!

 

[lowlander]

Coincidence - I posted the same question earlier.

The half inch inlay would get your hem open to 8.25" presumably, rather than the 8.5" you want.

Thanks for that -coincidence indeed.

8.25 is better than 8

 

[lowlander]

The outlet is on the inseam of the back part. Once it is let out you only change the crease of the back part. Front crease stays as is. If you have to instruct them, find someone more experienced.

That's good to know, thank you.

 

[Aloysius16]

I am looking to make a similar change, but my half inch inlay is spread across both sides of the inseam (only). So, following Chris’ advice, it seems that much less will be possible - I.e. an eight of an inch increase

 

[Despos]

Not sure I follow what you are saying. It's pretty rare to find much if any outlet on RTW trousers. Any outlet in the trouser leg is always put on the back part. Always a small amount on the inseam and rarely but sometimes on the outseam of the back part. There is no outlet on the front panels. Crease should always be centered on the front panel at knee and bottom. The measurement from crease to outseam and inseam should be equal at the knee and bottom on the front panels. After the legs are sewn the seam of the inseam and the outseam should be centered on each other. If the leg is twisting you have to shift the leg along the inseam up or down. Meaning moving the front panel inseam up or down in relation to the back panel. This is getting too technical

 

[Aloysius16]

Yes, quite technical! What I meant was that the rtw trousers I would like to let out have some inlay on the inseams (nothing on the outseam) but that the inlay comprises quarter of an inch plus seam allowance) on either side of the inseam. I presumed your advice was that the max I could let out is half of this - I.e. the inlay on the back part of the inseam - and that the inlay on the front part is redundant. So if the max I can let out is quarter of an inch - therefore increasing hem diameter by an eighth.

 

[Despos]

Guess so, if there isn't any more cloth

 

[lowlander]

Not sure I follow what you are saying. It's pretty rare to find much if any outlet on RTW trousers. Any outlet in the trouser leg is always put on the back part. Always a small amount on the inseam and rarely but sometimes on the outseam of the back part. There is no outlet on the front panels. Crease should always be centered on the front panel at knee and bottom. The measurement from crease to outseam and inseam should be equal at the knee and bottom on the front panels. After the legs are sewn the seam of the inseam and the outseam should be centered on each other. If the leg is twisting you have to shift the leg along the inseam up or down. Meaning moving the front panel inseam up or down in relation to the back panel. This is getting too technical

That's very helpful. I actually have 3 clear 4ths of an inch to let out. Would letting all of that out be a simple job, without making the back crease look strange?

 

[lowlander]

The problem is I don't even know if these trousers are tapered or not, or whether they just run straight from the

Guess so, if there isn't any more cloth

Also, should the trouser be let out the entire length of the seam? I notice that the seam goes right up to the trouser pocket, but if it was let out all the way to the pocket wouldn't that create too much excess room in the seat area?

 

[Despos]

You can let out the entire outlet but .25" is needed for the seam. This will have no negative effect. The back crease will change but you won't notice a difference. Letting out the entire length of the inseam will make the knee a touch wider and the thigh but not the seat. If you only want the bottom wider, begin letting out at the knee down to the hem. There is really very little at risk here.

That is a good clear picture showing how the two seams, inseam and outseam should line up. On on top of the other. That is perfect.

 

[lowlander]

You can let out the entire outlet but .25" is needed for the seam. This will have no negative effect. The back crease will change but you won't notice a difference. Letting out the entire length of the inseam will make the knee a touch wider and the thigh but not the seat. If you only want the bottom wider, begin letting out at the knee down to the hem. There is really very little at risk here.

That is a good clear picture showing how the two seams, inseam and outseam should line up. On on top of the other. That is perfect.

That's grand, thanks!