Canali Fit

[Style Pontifex]

Can anyone explain to me what type of fit/cut Canali suits typically have? Is it true that they have a "roomier" fit without much of a tapered jacket?

 

[antirabbit]

yeah, kind of boxy is the best way to describe them.
A structured shoulder and chest (hence boxy). Any jacket can get "shape" in the waist, but not in the shoulders and chest persay.

 

[Style Pontifex]

Thanks so much. This explains a lot.

Would you say that a Canali in the same size as say, a Zegna, could feel too loose in the chest even though the Zegna feels fine? I mean, the Canali almost feels as if the buttons are too far apart; I want to wrap the jacket tighter around me, but I know I have the right size! Does that make any sense?

 

[antirabbit]

Yes it does.
Look at the drop on the jacket.
Canali looks good on some bodies.

 

[jta1188]

Perhaps you don't have the right size. A drop down in size might--pardon the pun--suit you better.

 

[robasaurus]

Canali does make some trimmer cuts. The boxier fit that everyone talks about is their 13000 body (at least that's what it's called in the North American market). If you look really hard you may be able to find their 14000 and 15000 bodies, which are trimmer, have higher armholes and more waist suppression, and a slimmer pant. They're pretty similar fits, but have slightly different shoulder treatments.

The 13000 is by far the prevalent fit available in North America, and they make several other cuts beyond the 14000 and 15000 that I have never seen. I can't remember how to figure it out from the inside tag, but I can have a look at work today and get back to you.

 

[Douglas]

I own several Canali jackets and suits, and several Zegnas. As Robasaurus has pointed out, not every cut is the same... but I can say that my Canalis tend to fit me a bit larger than my mainline Zegna stuff. My Zegnas feature trimmer fits and higher armholes. I'm not sure if there's more waist suppression in technical terms based on the drop, but the shoulders seem to start trimmer and the whole jacket follows suit. (Ha, two "suit" puns in one thread.) As others have noted, the shoulders are built up more for a more square looking overall shape, while the Zegnas have softer and more sloping shoulders.

I think if you want a more Zegna-like fit, you should consider sizing down. You said you are sure you have the "right" size, but remember, the "right" size is going to vary depending on cut, manufacturer, etc. You don't have one holy grail size that is always appropriate.

Your other option may be to have the waist taken in, but you'll have to live in general with the shape of the shoulder.

 

[Style Pontifex]

Thanks, everyone. :]

 

[robasaurus]

Alright, I had a look at a Canali tag at work. Under "Modello", you'll find a five-digit number. The first two digits identify the cut of the jacket. So you'll want to look for 14--- or 15--- when you're searching for a new Canali suit, and those will be the trimmer-fitting garments you're after. Your best bet will be to try and find both so you can decide which shoulder treatment you like.

If you have any questions about this stuff, I'd be happy to find out some answers for you. I can always call our Canali rep if I don't know it off the top of my head.

 

[binge]

I can concur in that I have one Canali sportcoat, which I would say has a boxy fit and the model number on the tag is 13220/00.

The fact that it's a 54R and I'm a 52R doesn't help the fit either

 

[__PG__]

Just to bump this one, I'm wondering if the model number is directly related to the drop. i.e all Model 11XXX/XX suits I've seen have been drop 6. all Model 13XXX/XX suits I've seen have been drop 7. all Model 14XXX/XX suits I've seen have been drop 8. To all those who suggest that the 13000/00 is 'boxy'...you should try on an 11000/00

I have two 13XXX/XX drop 7 canali suits and I'd never describe it as a boxy cut... but I guess it depends on your chest/shoulder/waist/stomach proportions as to how you fill the suit out.

 

[weinberger]

QUESTIONS? I HAVE 2 CANALI FOR BLOOMINGDALES SUITS AND I HAVE NO CLUE HOW TO READ THE TAGS. CAN SOMEONE PLEASE EXPLAIN WHAT ALL THIS INFORMATION MEANS? MY BIGGEST QUESTIONS ARE WHAT TESSUTO AND MODELLO NUMBERS AND LETTERS MEAN. PLEASE FORGIVE ME I AM TOTALLY NEW AT BUYING SUITS. ANY AND ALL HELP WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED, THANK YOU

 

[razl]



QUESTIONS? I HAVE 2 CANALI FOR BLOOMINGDALES SUITS AND I HAVE NO CLUE HOW TO READ THE TAGS. CAN SOMEONE PLEASE EXPLAIN WHAT ALL THIS INFORMATION MEANS? MY BIGGEST QUESTIONS ARE WHAT TESSUTO AND MODELLO NUMBERS AND LETTERS MEAN. PLEASE FORGIVE ME I AM TOTALLY NEW AT BUYING SUITS. ANY AND ALL HELP WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED, THANK YOU

Ok, I'll bite - but only if you promise to STOP SCREAMING.

Tessuto is essentially Italian for the outer "fabric" or "composition" - in both cases the suits are made out of 100% wool. The Tessuto with the numbers above it is probably the specific wool used for that batch of suits (and it probably means something like the color, weight, weave, etc.). fyi the Fodera is for the internal fabric or comp, in both cases bemberg which is the highest quality lining available.

The Modello means "model" and is the manufacturer's way of differentiating different styles/cuts/flavors of suits. Someone would have to be a Canali expert to tell you what those means.

There, that's your first SF Q&A, hope it helps. Someone else with more knowledge can pick it up from here...

 

[weinberger]

Thanks so much, LOL I only text bold when I can't see what I am actually texting. Thanks again

 

[AlexE]

Canali boxy? I own a Canali suit and have tried several others. Compared to BB Regent / Fitzgerald, those were similar in the shoulders, but definitely cut trimmer in the waist. Trouser are also trimmer than their BB counterparts. Compared to the Zegna Milano fit they are slightly bigger across all dimensions. Now these are European models - might be that there is a boxy version for the US market.