Canali and Corneliani Differences.

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by demeis, Mar 24, 2006.

  1. demeis

    demeis Senior member

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    So this has been asked serverl time, i answered it on AA but SF has a search engine and there are several difference i didn't post before that i was not aware of and have never seen metioned between the two. I'm only dealing with Corneliani main line and Canali, no trend, CC, proposta, etc.

    I'll start off saying Corneliani is the better buy and the better garmet.

    Differences are as follows:

    Sleeves of Corneliani jackets are trimmer. They run a tad bit narrower that Canali, this could be a plus to trim guys like myself but a minus to bigger guys. I have found that if you wear a shirt with a large french cuff that sometimes it gets stuck on Cornelini sleeves, but 95% of the time this isn't a problem if your wearing a decently designed/fitting shirt.

    The shoulders of Corneliani are finished better. They have a little nicer round to them and are not at pronounced. The shoulder or Corneliani aren't as padded either. They have a softer shoulder with less padding. Which IMO looks better. The emphasis on the shoulders is cleaner and more flattering than Canali and resembles Kiton or Ravazzollo better. Also looking underneith you will find better construction. The shoulders of Corneliani are assembled by hand with tape and there is no fusing in the shoulder construction which means they can be pressed if they pucker and conform to the body better. Canali while hand felled the canvased is not taped together but rather fused and cannot be pressed.

    The collar construction is also better in Corneliani than Canali. Canali's bottom collar is a fused peice of canvas which cannot be pressed or shaped. Corneliani's bottom collor is a full canvas piece which ensures a little better fit.
    The last two facts were pointed out by my tailor who opened both jackets up for me to show me the difference i never knew existed.

    Fabrics for the two are pretty much the same as well as fit. Looking purely at fit and fabrics i would think they are the same garments.

    Except for one thing Corneliani's tend to run a bit longer. They run about a 1/4 of an inch longer than Canali's which is better for someone like myself who is more of a semi tall at around 5'11" then a reg or a tall.

    Pants they both make great pants, some of the best but Corneliani's tend to come with split back trousers (something that probibly varries by model) and they both have identical fit and flaws (especially in their flat front pants where the pockets are attachted like jeans pockets and make for poor fit).

    Just thought i would share this info and now its searchable plus the two construction differences that I recently found out about. I feel like i left something out but can't think of it now. Please chime in if you have found anything else that differs.

    Nik
     


  2. topcatny

    topcatny Senior member

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    Except for one thing Corneliani's tend to run a bit longer. They run about a 1/4 of an inch longer than Canali's which is better for someone like myself who is more of a semi tall at around 5'11" then a reg or a tall.

    That is the truth. I am definitely tall (6'4") and I have long arms (37" sleeve), on all of the L jackets I have tried on lately, the sleeves end at my knuckles! I can't imagine how they can make a jacket that is too long in the sleeves for me. In a few cases a R actually fit me much better.
     


  3. thinman

    thinman Senior member

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    That is the truth. I am definitely tall (6'4") and I have long arms (37" sleeve), on all of the L jackets I have tried on lately, the sleeves end at my knuckles! I can't imagine how they can make a jacket that is too long in the sleeves for me. In a few cases a R actually fit me much better.

    [​IMG] [​IMG] Maybe I should start trying on Corneliani 40R. I'm "only" 6'3" tall, with 36" sleeves. I usually assume I need a 38-40 L or XL jacket.
     


  4. topcatny

    topcatny Senior member

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    [​IMG] [​IMG] Maybe I should start trying on Corneliani 40R. I'm "only" 6'3" tall, with 36" sleeves. I usually assume I need a 38-40 L or XL jacket.

    I have always needed a L since I was 16 yrs old. This was the first time I ever encountered a problem. These were a couple of styles I saw in my local Saks. Maybe it was the particular model I tried on. Of course I didn't check or ask what model the jacket was. I'll try and head back there and see if I can find out some more info.
     


  5. AlexP415

    AlexP415 Well-Known Member

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    Interesting. I'm 6'2", and I always wear a 42L, but I actually tried on a 42R in Corneliani at Saks a few weeks ago and it fit almost perfectly. So, stupid me, I went on eBay that night and bought a 42R in one of the "Trend" models, without really checking all the measurements. The jacket is definitely about 1" to 1.5" too sort - it doesn't look bad at all, but it's a little too fashion-foward for business, IMO. [​IMG]
     


  6. billiebob

    billiebob Senior member

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    Hmm. The shoulders of the Corneliani for $600 at Filene's Basement are always either heavily padded or roped. Contrast this to the Corneliani for Polo blue label which is pretty natural (thought not entirely). I wished I could find a fully canvassed natural shoulder corneliani.
     


  7. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Hmm. The shoulders of the Corneliani for $600 at Filene's Basement are always either heavily padded or roped. Contrast this to the Corneliani for Polo blue label which is pretty natural (thought not entirely). I wished I could find a fully canvassed natural shoulder corneliani.

    My newer Cornelianis have less shoulder padding, in general, than my older ones. But all have roped shoulders. That's one thing I like about Corneliani.
     


  8. pkincy

    pkincy Senior member

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    That is the truth. I am definitely tall (6'4") and I have long arms (37" sleeve), on all of the L jackets I have tried on lately, the sleeves end at my knuckles! I can't imagine how they can make a jacket that is too long in the sleeves for me. In a few cases a R actually fit me much better.
    I recently bought an e54L Corneliani and it had to have about 3 inches cut off the sleeves losing most of the placket and all of the prestitiched buttonholes. I than bought a e54R from Ebay because the measurements indicated it would be long enough and sure enough it was. It is cut wider both in the shoulder and the body than the e54L. The shoulder width addition was small and was no problem, the body I am having taken in. The e54R sleeves only had to come up 1/2 inch for my 34/5 shirt length sleeve length. I am nearly a perfect e54L in Zegna excepting 1 inch out of the sleeves to give some comparison to this. I definitely am liking the Corneliani and it tends to be available and less expensive on Ebay than the Canalis. I own a fair number of Canalis but all have been bought at retail and I am beginning to think I prefer the Corneliani to the Canali. Less expensive and better can be a good thing. Perry
     


  9. montecristo#4

    montecristo#4 Senior member

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    I'm somewhere between 6'3" and 6'4" and I own one 40L Corneliani. I had to have the sleeves shortened as well and the fake button stitching (and button) on the bottom sleeve button moved to the top of the four buttons to accomodate the alteration.

    And I definitely prefer Corneliani to Canali for the reasons others have articulated.
     


  10. skalogre

    skalogre Senior member

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    I agree with what has been posted so far. I have both "natural" and rope-shouldered Corneliani (four suits and one black blazer), and they do have a nice shoulder line (assuming you get a good tailor for any alterations [​IMG] ). The Canali I have tried one tended to be rather boxy and inelegant although I do have a slim-ish frame.
     


  11. Sartorially Challenged

    Sartorially Challenged Senior member

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    How is that done (the stitching, not the buttons)?
     


  12. montecristo#4

    montecristo#4 Senior member

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    How is that done (the stitching, not the buttons)?

    Apparently the fake stitches can be carefully removed (almost like a patch or something) and resewn on in a new position. I didn't think it was possible, but they did it for me at James. The result was not perfect, but adequate.
     


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