• Hi, I am the owner and main administrator of Styleforum. If you find the forum useful and fun, please help support it by buying through the posted links on the forum. Our main, very popular sales thread, where the latest and best sales are listed, are posted HERE

    Purchases made through some of our links earns a commission for the forum and allows us to do the work of maintaining and improving it. Finally, thanks for being a part of this community. We realize that there are many choices today on the internet, and we have all of you to thank for making Styleforum the foremost destination for discussions of menswear.
  • This site contains affiliate links for which Styleforum may be compensated.
  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

    Styleforum is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. Please support us by using them. You may learn more here.

can you tell by this pic if it is goodyear or hand welted?

DWFII

Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Jan 8, 2008
Messages
10,132
Reaction score
5,714
Regardless whether a shoe is lasted by hand or machine, welted by hand or machine or has the outsole applied by hand or machine, the last (more likely to be plastic these days) stays inside the shoe until all the work is completed. Once the shoe is finished in it's entity, the last gets removed.

Only exception would be Blake-construction, which needs the last to be removed temporarily for the Blake-stitcher to operate.

Right...but even in the case of Blake the insole and outsole are in place before the last is removed.
 

brax

Distinguished Member
Joined
Apr 2, 2008
Messages
2,850
Reaction score
3,979
Thanks for the clarification on the timing of the removal of the last. But I trust that I adequately explained the purpose of lasting in the shoe making process.
 

DWFII

Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Jan 8, 2008
Messages
10,132
Reaction score
5,714
Thanks for the clarification on the timing of the removal of the last. But I trust that I adequately explained the purpose of lasting in the shoe making process.


I'm sure you did.

I got the impression that the post you were replying to was asking specifically about hand lasting...maybe from the words in that post--"hand lasting."

Regardless, I have a hard time imagining that, given the short video, the concept of lasting, itself, is not understood. I assume there is a language barrier but given the long standing misunderstanding (and misuse) of the term "goodyear welting" in that part of the world, I kind of hoped to head off a similar situation.

FWIW...and no disrespect intended...it's always best to have a clear understanding of how things work before trying to explain to others.

IMO...
 

UNOAIMX

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 29, 2016
Messages
331
Reaction score
264
If you take a pair of a good year welted shoes and "repair" it by hand like what this pro Japanese repairman did, then its a Good Year Hand Welted lol, so its all good, no oxymoron.
 

DWFII

Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Jan 8, 2008
Messages
10,132
Reaction score
5,714
Not really. 'Goodyear Welted' always refers to a method of construction and always implicitly refers to a limited set of materials techniques and results. Same is true for 'Hand Welted.'

What you have there is a hand sewn repair or welt replacement.
 

Nick V.

Distinguished Member
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Nov 12, 2007
Messages
1,949
Reaction score
1,543
Replacing a welt on a Goodyear welted shoe is the same as replacing a welt on a hand welted one.
The only difference is what the welt is stitched to.
With a GY welted shoe it gets stitched to the gemming. On a hand welted shoe it gets stitched to the feather. In either case the original holes are being used.
 

Maja Bayyoud

Member
Joined
Jun 12, 2019
Messages
9
Reaction score
3
Thank you all for your contributions again, I think I've got a clear idea of the terminology and would never have gotten to that point without all of you!

I've written a blog about my experiences as a novice of discovering how all this works, and given the forum a shoutout for all the useful support. It seems there's a lot of brands out there using misleading language to describe their dress shoes, which I covered with reference to specific brands. You can have a read here, please do let me know if I've miscommunicated anything and I'll update it:

Maja :)
 

Featured Sponsor

How important is full vs half canvas to you for heavier sport jackets?

  • Definitely full canvas only

    Votes: 92 37.6%
  • Half canvas is fine

    Votes: 90 36.7%
  • Really don't care

    Votes: 26 10.6%
  • Depends on fabric

    Votes: 41 16.7%
  • Depends on price

    Votes: 38 15.5%

Forum statistics

Threads
506,930
Messages
10,592,839
Members
224,333
Latest member
SalmanBaba
Top