can you tell a suit's qaulity by just looking?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by ccvle, Dec 16, 2009.

  1. B|aze

    B|aze Senior member

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    -Many times, the inner label on the lining will say something like "Super 100's wool." Super 100 and above is very good
    [​IMG]
     


  2. VikingsFan82

    VikingsFan82 Senior member

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    Pick stitch, check
    No Polyester, check
    Super 150's, check

    http://www.mensusa.com/products.aspx?id=363


    You've distorted my statements.

    I didn't say that all cheap suits are made from polyester.

    I didn't say that all cheap suits lack pick-stitching.

    I didn't say that all cheap suits are made from sub Super 100's wool.​

    All I said is that sometimes, the things I mentioned can be indicators of cheap suits.

    Take a logic class, dude.

    Still, one of the best ways to determine the quality of a suit is with the canvassing "pinch-test."
     


  3. VikingsFan82

    VikingsFan82 Senior member

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    Blaze, don't facepalm at me either.

    Sure, there are fabrics that are tons more softer and supple than Super 100s, but it's well-established the Super 120s range is the threshhold for "hard-wearing" wool. Especially if it's "worsted" (less fuzzy carding).

    I like how people keep taking potshots at me without elaboration.

    As a corollary to my Super 120s statement, I might also add that Super 120s wool from a maker like Zegna or Loro Piana is going to much better-quality than a no-name brand like the one in JPHardy's post.
     


  4. luftvier

    luftvier Senior member

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    Two visual indicators that come to mind:

    -Pick stitching around the lapels (most cheap brands don't do this)
    -Many cheap suits are made of polyester fabric, which gives them a tacky-looking sheen
    -Many times, the inner label on the lining will say something like "Super 100's wool." Super 100 and above is very good


    Problem is that nowadays a lot of cheap retailers have caught on and added pick stitching as a pure aesthetic. Someone posted a great video of some idiot who bought a Jos A Bank suit and thought the pick stitching had to be removed. Anyone have a link to that thread?

    Many cheap suits are also made of inferior wool or blends.

    Many cheap suits use Super 100s as well.

    There's a bunch more to this, but I have run out of patience typing on my Blackberry.
     


  5. heli0x

    heli0x Senior member

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  6. B|aze

    B|aze Senior member

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    Blaze, don't facepalm at me either.

    Sure, there are fabrics that are tons more softer and supple than Super 100s, but it's well-established the Super 120s range is the threshhold for "hard-wearing" wool. Especially if it's "worsted" (less fuzzy carding).

    I like how people keep taking potshots at me without elaboration.

    As a corollary to my Super 120s statement, I might also add that Super 120s wool from a maker like Zegna or Loro Piana is going to much better-quality than a no-name brand like the one in JPHardy's post.


    The Super 120s only means that it's max 17.75 micron in diameter and new wool....that doesn't mean it's high quality.
     


  7. B|aze

    B|aze Senior member

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    Problem is that nowadays a lot of cheap retailers have caught on and added pick stitching as a pure aesthetic. Someone posted a great video of some idiot who bought a Jos A Bank suit and thought the pick stitching had to be removed. Anyone have a link to that thread?

    http://www.styleforum.net/showthread...ighlight=idiot
     


  8. VikingsFan82

    VikingsFan82 Senior member

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    The Super 120s only means that it's max 17.75 micron in diameter and new wool....that doesn't mean it's high quality.
    I'm talking about Super 120's, 100% WOOL (NO BLENDS) from a good maker like Zegna or Loro Piana. How many cheap suits have you seen with that?
     


  9. B|aze

    B|aze Senior member

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  10. VikingsFan82

    VikingsFan82 Senior member

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    Many cheap suits are also made of inferior wool or blends.

    Yes, and the label will usually indicate the "blend." My H&M suit is a wool blend from a no-name fabric manufacturer.

    I was talking about 100% wool.
     


  11. Joe Cool

    Joe Cool Senior member

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    Chock full of heady goodness
    I prefer it when guys just leave the sleeve tag on. That way I can just walk right up, read the tag and draw my own conclusions.
     


  12. VikingsFan82

    VikingsFan82 Senior member

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    http://www.henryjermyn.ie/ProductDetail.aspx?ref=114
    Nice try, buddy. That suit IS expensive. It's merely on sale. The MSRP is clearly marked at $695 euros. That's nearly 1,015 USD. I would hardly call that "cheap." By comparison, my mid-range hickey suit retailed at $1100, but I got it for like 75% off at a discount store.
     


  13. blackbowtie

    blackbowtie Senior member

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    Generally a cheaper fused suit will have zero roll in the lapel, but that's not to say ALL cheap suits have no roll ... just on average it's the easiest way to tell a nicer suit from a poorly constructed one.

    This is probably true until your dry cleaner destroys the roll in the lapel by ironing it flat.
     


  14. Sterling Gillette

    Sterling Gillette Senior member

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    Take a logic class, dude.
    I'd say, dude, you better do your homework.

    Sure, there are fabrics that are tons more softer and supple than Super 100s, but it's well-established the Super 120s range is the threshhold for "hard-wearing" wool. Especially if it's "worsted" (less fuzzy carding).
    That's simply wrong. I dont know one single traditional tailor who recommends using these modern fabrics a/k/a toilet paper over traditional ones.
    I like how people keep taking potshots at me without elaboration.
    I like how you post clichees you read in a newspaper article.
    As a corollary to my Super 120s statement, I might also add that Super 120s wool from a maker like Zegna or Loro Piana is going to much better-quality than a no-name brand like the one in JPHardy's post.
    This, too, is wrong or at least depends on the maker. A great number of much higher regarded woollen mechants than Loro Piana or Zegna don't even sell Super XXX cloth.
     


  15. furo

    furo Senior member

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    And let's not even get into the fact that deciphering between 100s and 120s wool merely by "looking" at a suit is impossible.
     


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