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Can this blazer be altered or tailored to fit my measurements?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by cacky, Jan 16, 2009.

  1. cacky

    cacky Senior member

    Messages:
    360
    Joined:
    Jan 26, 2007
    Greetings all -- I wanted to seek your opinions on suit adjustments and tailoring. In the past, I've generally bought my suits bespoke, but I am now thinking about buying some pre-owned suits or blazers off StyleForum. Obviously it's hard to find a suit that fits exactly my measurements off the rack, but here's an example of a blazer that seems somewhat close to what I normally wear. It is blazer to be a 38L based on measurements provided by the seller. I would like to know if it is possible to tailor it such that it would actually fit my measurements. The dimension of the blazer I'm thinking about buying is as follows:

    - Shoulder seam to shoulder seam across the back is 19 "
    - Chest: Armpit to armpit is 21 "
    - Midsection 19 ½ "
    - Sleeve length from top of shoulder seam on the arm to cuff hem is 26 " ( ½ " extra material to let out)
    - Back length from top of collar to bottom hem is 31 ¾ "

    And my personal dimensions from my most recent bespoke suit are as follows:
    (inches) \t 
    - Jacket Length \t29.25
    - Jacket Shoulder \t18
    - Jacket Sleeves \tLeft 23.875, Right 24.125
    - Chest \t37
    - Stomach \t31
    - Hip \t38.75

    I'm 5'8" and 155 lbs., with a typical (ex-)college tennis player build.

    Can you please let me know how easily it will be to shorten and take in the blazer that I just mentioned, and if any complications would arise? It's been forever since I've bought a suit off-the-rack or sight-unseen, so I'd appreciate your input. Also, is there a general rule-of-thumb concerning how "close" a jacket must be relative to my actual measurements such that tailoring or alterations can be used to fix it?

    Many thanks,
    cacky
     
  2. Mr. Potato

    Mr. Potato Senior member

    Messages:
    394
    Joined:
    Jan 6, 2008
    The jacket seems a littler far off from what you normally wear.

    First off, shoulders are 1 inch off, which will be difficult to alter. That should be a red sign. Of course depends on how much shoulder padding your bespoke or intended jackets have.
    Second, the length is more than an inch off. Would skew off the jacket's proportions if you have it altered to 29in.

    Overall, too much money to spend on altering. Even if it can be done, it won't look right.
     
  3. SkinnyGoomba

    SkinnyGoomba Senior member

    Messages:
    12,590
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    Jan 3, 2008
    Location:
    Princeton, NJ
    too far off, you'll spend more altering that and be less happy with it, then just buying one much closer to fitting.
     
  4. lee_44106

    lee_44106 Senior member

    Messages:
    8,106
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    Jul 19, 2006
    Location:
    the Zoo
    Don't do it.

    Shoulder is at least 1" larger. It's a very very tricky alteration that only a few very competent tailor can tackle. Rule of thumb, if shoulder doesn't fit don't buy.

    Secondly, that's a 2 inch variation between sleeve length. If the jacket you want to buy has functional sleeve buttonholes, then it's no good.

    Third, when you say your jacket length is 29.25" do you mean TOTAL length (from top of collar to bottom of hem) or do you measure from the bottom of collar to bottom of hem? If the former, then there is at least 1" variation in length. While it's possible to shorten a jacket, excessive tailoring will throw off the look because the pockets will look too low.

    So to summarize, I would not buy the jacket as the alterations are too much.


    Now having said that, if the jacket in question is a "KITON", then by all means get it because a KITON is a KITON and that's all it matters.
     
  5. SkinnyGoomba

    SkinnyGoomba Senior member

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    Location:
    Princeton, NJ
    lol i sense some sarcasm in that last part.
     
  6. X-Calibre

    X-Calibre Senior member

    Messages:
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    Feb 6, 2007
    Location:
    Washington D.C.
    That jacket exactly fits my measurements. If you are not getting it, do you mind PMing me the source [​IMG]
     
  7. cacky

    cacky Senior member

    Messages:
    360
    Joined:
    Jan 26, 2007
    Hi all -- thanks so much for the detailed advice. I'm so glad that I brought my question to this forum.

    Maybe you guys can opine on something else then -- how often are you able to find suits and blazers on eBay/StyleForum that are pre-owned, and actually meet your measurements? For me, I have almost always bought stuff bespoke just because I don't want to deal with the hassle of an ill-fitting suit. But now that I'm looking for better "values," I wouldn't mind buying stuff second-hand; only problem is being able to find something that's just right. Have you guys had better luck finding stuff that fits?

    X-Calibre, I can PM you the source. Hope you will be able to make use of it.
     
  8. lee_44106

    lee_44106 Senior member

    Messages:
    8,106
    Joined:
    Jul 19, 2006
    Location:
    the Zoo
    lol i sense some sarcasm in that last part.

    No sarcasm playa,

    those in the nose know that Kitons cannot be beat.
     
  9. gsugsu

    gsugsu Senior member

    Messages:
    894
    Joined:
    May 9, 2008
    You probably should not be looking at buying a long jacket and does the top of collar to bottom seam measurement qualify the jacket as a 38 L?
     
  10. cacky

    cacky Senior member

    Messages:
    360
    Joined:
    Jan 26, 2007
    Don't do it.

    Shoulder is at least 1" larger. It's a very very tricky alteration that only a few very competent tailor can tackle. Rule of thumb, if shoulder doesn't fit don't buy.

    Secondly, that's a 2 inch variation between sleeve length. If the jacket you want to buy has functional sleeve buttonholes, then it's no good.

    Third, when you say your jacket length is 29.25" do you mean TOTAL length (from top of collar to bottom of hem) or do you measure from the bottom of collar to bottom of hem? If the former, then there is at least 1" variation in length. While it's possible to shorten a jacket, excessive tailoring will throw off the look because the pockets will look too low.

    So to summarize, I would not buy the jacket as the alterations are too much.


    Now having said that, if the jacket in question is a "KITON", then by all means get it because a KITON is a KITON and that's all it matters.



    I don't remember off-hand whether the jacket length of 29.25" for me represents the distance from top of collar to bottom of hem, or from bottom of collar to bottom of hem. I'd have to check for sure when I got home. Those measurements I took came from my last visit with W.W. Chan.

    Also, when it comes to tailoring and alteration, how much of a consideration are the mid-section and chest measurements? There's a lot of talk about the overall jacket length as well as how it fits on the shoulders; are all other measurements basically just secondary considerations at that point?
     

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