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Can I resole these Ferragamos?

navysuede

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The Ferragamo in the photo can be repaired...A good cobbler can do it...no
problem..Checking some of the work samples at the shop is always a good
thing to do..Also check with SSIA...Shoe Service Industries of America for
refs.. and locations nearest you.
smile.gif
 

lee_44106

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Originally Posted by haganah
I'll have to check now.

But I have a couple more questions:

1) What is the benefit of stitching on the sole instead of gluing it on?
2) If they cut off the outer layer on the goodyear welt, by cutting the stitches, are they just gluing another layer back on or stitching something on?
3) Why can't I see the stitching go through the bottom layer of the goodyear? Is it hidden by a piece that's glued on?



1) The stitching on the sole is indicative that a pair of shoe MAY be welted in the Goodyear fashion. Having the different layers of the shoe stitiched together means that it will be more durable and allow the shoe to be resoled.

2) They could glue another leather sole on, but why? If the shoe was originally welted, it's simple to rewelt the shoe by stitching a new leather sole/layer on.

3) Some welted shoe you can see the stitiching, some you can't. Best example are the Crockett&Jones line of shoes. The benchgrade (cheaper) you can see the stitiching, whereas the handgrade (more expensive) you can't. On the ones that you can't see the stitiching, there is an extra thin layer of leather cut into the sole that covers the stitching. From a functional standpoint there is no difference, but from a cosmetic/aesthetic standpoint, no stitiching looks better, and thus more expensive.
 

Nick V.

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Originally Posted by HomerJ
What is the construction method of these Ferragamo shoes?

I'd like to resole them... but I don't see the same stitching I see on my goodyear welt AEs. Are these blake? Cemented?!

imgp1976wh4.jpg

imgp1977bl1.jpg


Seams from the picture that they are manufactured with a "dummy or fake welt". In most cases that type of sole is cemented on. They can easily be resoled by a qualified repair shop. They can also be blake stitched if you so desire.
 

HomerJ

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Originally Posted by lee_44106
Tramezzas can be identified by the following (Any one will suffice):

-a CLOTH tag on the heel portion of the insole saying "Salvatore Ferragamo"
-cursive writing engraved into the sole saying Tramezza
-a small oval metal tag on the sole, I belive it says Tramezza or Ferragamo

Also, look into the insole, is there a complete leather covering? Can you seen any stitching on the ball portion of the insole? The stitching is a tipoff for blake-rapid or bologna.

Try posting picture of the sole and insole.


Didn't find any of that. No stitching in the insole, rather what looks like some nail holes or something in the ball portion. Oh well, cost me 6.99 and they still have plenty of life. (Sorry, no pictures for whoever requested. My home internet is too slow for uploading)

Checked out your site Nick V. If my local guy doesn't work out I may be sending these your way.
 

lee_44106

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Then your shoe is not Tramezza, and therefore not welted in the Goodyear fashion.
 

haganah

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Originally Posted by lee_44106
1) The stitching on the sole is indicative that a pair of shoe MAY be welted in the Goodyear fashion. Having the different layers of the shoe stitiched together means that it will be more durable and allow the shoe to be resoled. 2) They could glue another leather sole on, but why? If the shoe was originally welted, it's simple to rewelt the shoe by stitching a new leather sole/layer on. 3) Some welted shoe you can see the stitiching, some you can't. Best example are the Crockett&Jones line of shoes. The benchgrade (cheaper) you can see the stitiching, whereas the handgrade (more expensive) you can't. On the ones that you can't see the stitiching, there is an extra thin layer of leather cut into the sole that covers the stitching. From a functional standpoint there is no difference, but from a cosmetic/aesthetic standpoint, no stitiching looks better, and thus more expensive.
I hope you don't mind my questions. I seem to buy all the better quality things and I would just like to understand why I do so. 1) Why does stitching hold up better? whether they are blake, rapid, goodyear or cemented, when a sole wears down it still has to be replaced. And assuming the soles all last the same depending on use, what role does the glue or stitching play? 2) I just thought they cut it off because stickonatree said goodyears were "easy to resole is the fact that the outsole can be simply removed by cutting the stitches". 3) So when you can't see the stitching like that C&J, they just glue another thin piece over it?
 

Ricardo Malocchio

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Originally Posted by AlSailor
This is a quote from RIDER on shoe repair. Hope this helps:

Quote:
3. How easy is it to have Blake-stitched shoes resoled at a typical local cobbler's? My local cobbler is excellent, but I have yet to ask him what he (and his contemporaries in other cities -- I may be moving soon) can do with Blake stitched soles.

This is probably THE MOST mis-understood topic that appears regularly on these boards...shoe repair guys have really done a great job making their work seem more complicated than it is. First of all, 90% of the adhesion of all parts of a factory shoe, including the sole, is all-purpose cement and/or double-sided tape. Secondly, EVERY shoe repair shop that is any good will have a MacKay stitcher...Blake and MacKay are interchangeable - same machine, different name on different continents. It's very easy - the heels are removed and the toplifts thrown out, the existing outsole is sanded down to a uniform thickness, the new sole is laminated on and then the shoes are run around the MacKay stitcher. The heel bases are then glued/nailed back on, and new toplifts glued/nailed to the bases. Excess is trimmed away, ink is rolled around the sole edge, shoes are ready - straight forward job.
Now, with the exception of the alligator flanks model I have, all Martegani shoes are BLAKE/RAPID construction - not Blake. This means that the MID-SOLE is Blake stitched and the OUTSOLE is Rapid stitched - a seperate stitch on the outside of the upper that goes thru the midsole...looks just like a welted shoe. This is the EASIEST construction to repair, as all you have to do is cut off the outsole and lay a new one onto the existing mid-sole and stitch again. No sanding down to a uniform thickness, no replacing dried up cork/glue mixture...easy job. And, it's repairable more than many welted shoes as, since there is no welt, you can run stitches thru the midsole at more places where on a welted shoe, after two or three outsole jobs, you have to replace the welt as it's been stitched out. Most of my customers simply bring my shoes (or send them) back to me for repair work.

Well, this is great info, as are all of Mr. Rider's posts. I'm so glad to hear that my Blake-stitched Lav. Orig. Bonds can be resoled! Even though I always provide a 48-hour resting period, I'm starting to wear down these old favorites. Does anyone happen to have a favorite Boston-area cobbler they'd recommend for this? Preferably in town, but I'll drive out to the suburbs if need be.

Can a shoe be "re-heeled" more easily? I have a pair of casual Barney's co-op shoes, among my favorite beat-arounds. The sole has some Topy like material and is barely worn, but the heel must have been made of old wine bottle corks - it's down to a bare nubby nothing! Really all that's needed is a nice new heel.
 

philosophe

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New heels are not a big deal at all. Just go to a cobbler who uses high-quality materials.
 

Cobblestone

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The difference in most shoe repair shops is the craftsmanship of the person doing the repairs, material quality, and the service they provide. Price is determined by material choice and overhead costs link any other business. You should discuss your expectations with the person who is doing the work. Also, ask to see samples of their work on the finished shelf. This will give you a good idea of their craft.
 

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