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Can Chan Make A Truly Soft Suit

Mr. Pink

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I'm getting ready to order my second suit from Chan--as well as having some substantial adjustments made to my first. In thinking about what I want, I've realized that my favorite suits are those with the softest structure, i.e., Oxxford, some Cornelianis, Isaia, etc. Does anyone out there know whether Chan can do this? Has anyone had Chan make a truly soft suit?
 

whoopee

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Ask them for little padding, a natural shoulder, and very light canvassing. If you ask, they will take out the horsehair (except from over the shoulder), which I personally prefer, especially with cloths that can hold their own.
 

Mr. Pink

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Originally Posted by whoopee
Ask them for little padding, a natural shoulder, and very light canvassing. If you ask, they will take out the horsehair (except from over the shoulder), which I personally prefer, especially with cloths that can hold their own.

Thanks. Is the removal of horsehair from the chestpiece something that can be accomplished with a suit already made?
 

Manton

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Originally Posted by reubencahn
Thanks. Is the removal of horsehair from the chestpiece something that can be accomplished with a suit already made?
No.
 

cbrokaw

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Originally Posted by Manton
No.

The horsehair canvas always makes the suit stiff. I asked my HK tailor for a soft sillouette, but no matter how hard he tried, it's doesn't feel like the Kiton's, Oxxfords, etc. I wonder why this is so hard to emmulate...
 

Cantabrigian

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Originally Posted by cbrokaw
The horsehair canvas always makes the suit stiff. I asked my HK tailor for a soft sillouette, but no matter how hard he tried, it's doesn't feel like the Kiton's, Oxxfords, etc. I wonder why this is so hard to emmulate...

I've also wondered why that is. It seems as though softness - even in the sleeves - is hard for mid-priced tailors/makers to copy and I don't know why that is.
 

Charley

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Originally Posted by Manton
"I see the river Tiber foaming with much blood."

Yes.

But is it Enoch Powell:
"The supreme function of statesmanship," Powell began, "is to provide
against preventable evils. ...
"At all events, the discussion of future grave but, with effort now, avoidable evils is the most unpopular and at the same time the most necessary occupation for the politician. Those who knowingly shirk it, deserve, and not infrequently receive, the curses of those who come after. ...
"It is like watching a nation busily engaged in heaping up its own funeral pyre. ...
"As I look ahead, I am filled with foreboding. Like the Roman, I seem to see 'the River Tiber foaming with much blood'”. ...


Or Sybil?
The coast, so long desir'd (nor doubt th' event),
Thy troops shall reach, but, having reach'd, repent.
Wars, horrid wars, I view- a field of blood,
And Tiber rolling with a purple flood.
Simois nor Xanthus shall be wanting there:
A new Achilles shall in arms appear,
And he, too, goddess-born. Fierce Juno's hate,
Added to hostile force, shall urge thy fate.
To what strange nations shalt not thou resort,
Driv'n to solicit aid at ev'ry court!
The cause the same which Ilium once oppress'd;
A foreign mistress, and a foreign guest.
 

Manton

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Aeneid, VI 1.
 

Luc-Emmanuel

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Originally Posted by Cantabrigian
I've also wondered why that is. It seems as though softness - even in the sleeves - is hard for mid-priced tailors/makers to copy and I don't know why that is.
I guess there is a reason some things cost more than others. It's harder to work with lighter fabrics, lighter canvasses and still keep a clean cut and flawless shape.

!luc
 

tricket

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Originally Posted by Cantabrigian
I've also wondered why that is. It seems as though softness - even in the sleeves - is hard for mid-priced tailors/makers to copy and I don't know why that is.


Your tailor simply uses a single grade of camel hair canvas for suits for all seasons. There are different grades of camel hair canvas of different thickness and texture for different seasons.
 

zjpj83

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IMHO, no, they can't.

They are a cheaper MTM/bespoke provider. I really like my WW Chans. But it is what it is. You are paying $1,200. You aren't going to get a $5,000 Neapolitan jacket.
 

Mr. Pink

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Originally Posted by zjpj83
IMHO, no, they can't.

They are a cheaper MTM/bespoke provider. I really like my WW Chans. But it is what it is. You are paying $1,200. You aren't going to get a $5,000 Neapolitan jacket.


While I'd love that level of softness, I'm not looking for it. I'm just looking to match my softer RTW suits. I wore my Chan the other day and I think I was being somewhat unfair. It is as soft as any Corneliani that I have. However, I have an Oxxford and a Zegna that are both softer. I assume the quality of the Oxxford is higher, but the Zegna? I don't think their quality is all that great.

I'm going to emphasize my desire for softness on the next order and see what happens. And someday, when the kid's out of private schools and college and the wife stops spending money on the house, maybe I'll be able to fly to London for fittings of a Rubinacci.
 

TIEALIGN

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Originally Posted by zjpj83
IMHO, no, they can't.

They are a cheaper MTM/bespoke provider. I really like my WW Chans. But it is what it is. You are paying $1,200. You aren't going to get a $5,000 Neapolitan jacket.


Oh so true
 

LabelKing

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Originally Posted by Manton
Aeneid, VI 1.
"Nam Sibyllam quidem Cumis ego ipse oculis meis vidi in ampulla pendere, et cum illi pueri dicerunt: Sebulla pe theleis; respondebat illa: apothanein thelo."
 

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