Calzado Pepay, Bespoke Shoemaker in Santiago, Chile Thead

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by musicguy, Aug 27, 2011.

  1. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    the first step is the hardest. don't push up your expectations too high. the custom made route is a route of learning and development. i've come a rather long way until now and i'm still learning a lot. rome hasn't been built on one day.
     
  2. musicguy

    musicguy Senior member

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    Thank you for the advice... it's my first foray into bespoke anything. I understand it can be a long process, but it'll be something I enjoy. Thanks to member Alexander, who also lives in Chile, I know of a few good bespoke tailors here. Next will be my commission of a navy blazer. I figure that's a good start of a relationship with a tailor and will also give me an idea of what his work is like.
     
    Last edited: Oct 15, 2011
  3. musicguy

    musicguy Senior member

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    Alright, finally I was able to go and get a pair of shoes commissioned!

    My Spanish is a lot better now and I was able to manage just fine working with them and choosing what I wanted.

    A bit of background about Pepay. The store has been around for over 100 years. It is a family owned and run business. They sell some RTW shoes but also do a good amount of bespoke work. From what the store owners told me, they are quite popular.

    Bespoke in my size foot (around 44 euro) costs $130.000 CLP, or roughly 260 USD. It's more pricey for larger feet.

    The man in charge of measuring took outlines of my feet and measured around the widest part at the toes and the instep.

    I'm ordering a pair of suede cap toe balmorals. No brogueing or medallion. Shoes are entirely handmade, although I can't imagine the uppers being hand stitched. Soles will be hand stitched with leather covering the stitiching (what's that called again?). Also, I'll have a combination leather/rubber heel, 4cm tall.

    My trial fitting will be in about two weeks. They'll be on vacation in February (as will I), so the fitting will be before then.

    Here are some pics! I didn't take any of the process of measuring, but when I come in for the fitting, they told me I'll be able to take some pics of the workshop.

    Walking to the shop, across the street from my loft is the National Library:
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    Paseo where shop is located:
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    Walking down paseo:
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    Choosing leather from the store room.
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    Example of the welt:
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    My choice in suede is the one the man in holding. The colors are off, but it's pretty nice suede.
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    Last edited: Jan 9, 2012
  4. james_timothy

    james_timothy Senior member

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    Interesting. I gather it works a lot better if one can communicate.

    P.S.: that yellow shoe, there, in the center? hide it!
     
  5. musicguy

    musicguy Senior member

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    Haha, I have a feeling it's a womens shoe. Heck, Chileans also have weird taste... or it could be a costume or dancing shoe.

    Yes, it worked a lot better than it would have a few months ago. They were still quite patient with me since shoe terminology in spanish is a new thing for me. Also, I asked if they would add a piece of metal on the tip of the sole and they said they wouldn't do it. It's worth a try to ask for it!

    Anyway forgot to post a few things. They'll be fully lined in leather and have a point toe (no chisel).
     
    Last edited: Jan 9, 2012
  6. narcissism

    narcissism Senior member

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  7. musicguy

    musicguy Senior member

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    Interestingly enough, it's in Santiago Centro, a block from the Teatro Municipal and the Biblioteca Nacional, right off the Alameda. It's a 3 minute walk from my place. One would expect a place like this to be in Providencia, Las Condes or Vitacura. The reason for this is probably because they've been around for so long.

    Didn't know you were in Chile at some time. Como stai weon?
     
  8. musicguy

    musicguy Senior member

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    ..
     
    Last edited: Jan 18, 2012
  9. plei89

    plei89 Senior member

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    Wow, I'm looking forward to seeing how the finished shoe, as well as the in-betweens!

    Thanks for posting!
     
  10. james_timothy

    james_timothy Senior member

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    That thing is the death of my browser! This is the third time I've tried to respond. The Chilean Shoe of Death.

    Did they really have a supply of suede on hand? Somehow I imagined they would make an appointment with you, and arrange for suede to be in the store when you showed up.

    It's a little hard to tell, but the store looks like a small shop, not a long cavernous place where they might have a supply of leathers stored.
     
    Last edited: Jan 10, 2012
  11. sspp

    sspp Active Member

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    So good to have found this thread! I also live in Chile, and ran into this shop once while downtown... I was looking for it last week, and couldn't find it (not even in google as I couldn't remember the name!)
    Thanks for the tip musicguy, hope you enjoy your stay in Chile!
     
  12. musicguy

    musicguy Senior member

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    Yes, they really did have it all in stock. The room isn't that big, but it is packed to the brim with different leathers. I actually had a chance to go in the room and browse. They have quite a selection... even blue suede, although they mentioned it is for womens shoes, whatever that means. The other suede in the pic is actually nicer than the one I chose, but I prefer the shade of the other one.

    If you have a shop for a long time, you begin to know what peopletend to want. The suede I picked is really quite standard.


    You're welcome! Happy to help. I had passed it many times before I realized what the store actually is. I don't think they do any advertising either, so one would just have to stumble on the store or hear from friends. Nice to see another person in Chile here. Welcome! Viva chile mierda jaja
     
  13. musicguy

    musicguy Senior member

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    Okay, had my first trial fitting.

    Went really well. So far I'm very happy with the way things are going. I may never go back to OTR shoes though... I'm starting to realize how uncomfortable my other shoes are. This may be a slippery slope haha.

    With a few adjustments, I think they're going to be great. They first were much too small, but he went to the shop and adjusted them. Now I just have to make the area where my left small toe is bigger and where my right big toe is bigger.

    Here are some pics of the fitting. Click on the pics for larger versions. Yes, the right shoe laces are uneven, which I mentioned to the man making my shoes. Obviously, he said that they're going to look much nicer once finished, but this will give you an idea of what I'm working with.

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    Incidentally, the yellow shoe from the store window is gone!
     
    Last edited: Jan 18, 2012
  14. james_timothy

    james_timothy Senior member

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    Nice progress. I wonder if they sold the yellow shoe?

    The shoes are looking very sleek and rounded, but that's probably because they aren't balanced off by a sole.

    Looks like he is gluing the suede to the thing that will be above the sole (and whose name I don't know). I can see what I think is glue in the third photo, just in front of the heel.

    How does he add room? Stretching the suede?
     
  15. musicguy

    musicguy Senior member

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    What you see above the heel is part of the lining of the shoe. But yes, it seems to be glued on right now. I don't really know how he made the shoe larger between fittings, but he could be reaffixing the uppers with glue right now.

    You're right, the shoes are very sleek. At first I thought they were too sleek, but they have grown on me and my foot shape is playing a huge role.

    With regards to the yellow shoe, I have a feeling they may have seen this thread and removed it!
     

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