Calf vs cordovan: which stretches more?

[kolecho]

Does anyone have experience with similar shoes in calf and cordovan to compare which stretches more with use?

 

[billiebob]

It depends on the make and type of calf. Double-soles also stretch less than single for some reason, though I can't imagine the actual sole stretching at all.

Some examples:

Alden for Brooks plaintoe cordovan bluchers-stretched and molded to my feet really well. They've loosened up a bit too much in the heel, however.

Polo Darlton cordovan-as near as I can tell, no stretch at all. These wear like iron.
Polo Darlton calfskin-very little stretch, these much be really thick calf

Ed green calf-stretch a lot, quickly. (I can see why they suggest fitting them snug)

Polo Holland chelsea boots-they stretch, but it takes a long time.
My grenson masterpiece stretched a little, not as much as EG, but more than Polo.
I guess it depends on the initial fit.

 

[kolecho]

Interesting observation. I hear conflicting reports about calf and cordovan in terms of stretch. I guess your experience confirms it.

Interesting to note that EG calf molds well after the initial break-in period.

 

[Teacher]

They've seemed to be about the same to me, though shell seems to stretch more slowly.

 

[janne melkersson]

If a shoe stretch or not is a question of many elements! It has not only to do with the skin but also, from which part of the skin the upper is cut.

In Vass book page 98 there is a photo that shows how to click an upper. The vamp stretch is going crosswise and the stretch on the quarter/counter is lenghtwise. If the clicker cut the parts different because he want to get as many pairs as possible from a skin it will end up with the stretch going not where it should but any where else! Kind of awkward if you get a pair of shoe where the vamp on the right foot is cut with the stretch lengthwise and the left vamp is cut crosswise!

 

[Roger]

Judging from Alden's little instruction card that comes with their shell cordovan shoes, one might suspect that cordovan is more susceptible to stretching than calf. In Point 5 of their 9-point "Maintaining your Alden Cordovan shoes" instructions, we have: "Use a shoe tree that fits the shoes gently. Avoid pressure in width or length as this could make the fitting change considerably in the vegetable tanned cordovan leather...." (Italics mine).

As a result of these instructions, I don't use spring-loaded shoe trees in my Alden cordovans, but rather the cheaper plastic ones that can be set to exert very little tension on the shoes.

 

[AlonzoMosely]

I am thoroughly confused now. Today I bought a pair of shell cordovans from The Shoemart and they told me that shell cordovan takes much longer to break in than calfskin so it is even more important that it fit right. They didn't say anything about not using spring loaded shoe trees and the all the Alden shoe trees they sell are spring loaded. Should I be concerned about what kind of shoe trees I use in my new (expensive) cordovan shoes?!?!?

 

[NoVaguy]

Originally Posted by AlonzoMosely

I am thoroughly confused now. Today I bought a pair of shell cordovans from The Shoemart and they told me that shell cordovan takes much longer to break in than calfskin so it is even more important that it fit right. They didn't say anything about not using spring loaded shoe trees and the all the Alden shoe trees they sell are spring loaded. Should I be concerned about what kind of shoe trees I use in my new (expensive) cordovan shoes?!?!?

maybe. maybe not. i don't think it's a big deal either way.

 

[Manton]

Wow, my experience is that shell does not stretch at all and does not break in in any meaningful way. I buy shell in one width larger, when I can.

 

[kolecho]

My Alden cordovan with oxford lacing closed up after a couple of months of use. They have a small gap in the lacing initially. Does that mean that the cordovan uppers did stretch?

 

[Teacher]

Yes.

 

[The Devil's Hands]

I sure hope cordovan stretches.

I just bought a pair of new Alden 986 in shell, color #8, and I bought them slightly too small, but I walked a few miles through Boston in them. They're still pretty tight.

I have a high arch, so for the first treeing, i threw a AA battery under where my arch was hurting, and it helped a little. I'm hoping I can break them in soon by wearing them every day.

I still haven't polished them either. I must suck at taking care of shoes.

 

[Sator]

Originally Posted by Teacher

They've seemed to be about the same to me, though shell seems to stretch more slowly.

This too is my experience.

 

[kolecho]

I have an unlined Alden cordovan key pouch. In the beginning, I could fit few keys. I added one key at a time and over time, it softened and conformed.

Shoes are a little different as they are calf lined in most cases, but after wearing my Aldens for a year plus, they have indeed gotten roomier, so much that I ended up using some tongue pads.

 

[The Devil's Hands]

I'm glad.

I've taken to putting duct tape over my arches to keep them from blistering while I break these puppies in. I know it will be worth it eventually, when I have really awesome looking shoes that fit like gloves.

But right now, it sucks pretty hard.