C&J shoes for the 125th anniversary

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Duke_of_Windsor, Nov 23, 2004.

  1. Duke_of_Windsor

    Duke_of_Windsor Active Member

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    CROCKETT AND JONES: HIS 125 YEARS.. To celebrate its 125 years, the house Crockett and Jones launches three special in limited edition and numbered models: These shoes on sale as from December 1, 2004 and its are delivered with one to "embauchoir" origin way bootmaker on form the 337 ..All the photographs are finally there........ http://www.souliers.net/php/index.php [​IMG] Â [​IMG]
     


  2. dorian

    dorian Senior member

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    um.... that's interesting, because those boots have been on the sales rack at Barney's for months. hmmmm
     


  3. Duke_of_Windsor

    Duke_of_Windsor Active Member

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  4. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I've always been very impressed by the design contribution Dimitri Gomez (of C&J, Paris) has made to the handgrade line of C&J. They are some of the classiest shoes around.

    Leaving aside the very smart "Trafalgar" crocodile blucher (although some mineral water springs to mind), the other two designs "Regent" and "Clarence" are really hideous. Combining brown leather with grey suede and a raspberry pink lining is a bit OTT. The two models looked as if they had come straight from the wardrobe of "Bugsy Malone". What a shame. (Alas, the "embauchoirs" -shoe trees in English- are really nice. Maybe they sell them separate.)

    I realize it is very difficult to design anything new or different in shoes, as the basic styles have been around for over 100 years. John Lobb usually gets it right in their annual special model dedicated to Saint Crispin (the patron saint of cobblers).
     


  5. jcusey

    jcusey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I can't defend the use of gray suede and gray snakeskin (or whatever that is on the shoe) because it is, as you say, hideous. However, both shoes would be very attractive if they had been made from one color leather -- the brown on the boot is gorgeous, and tobacco suede would be, as well.
     


  6. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I agree with you entirely. The shape and the line of the two shoes in question is wonderful. But, why oh why, not make the galoshes/balmoral boot all over in that really nice, brown leather? Same thing for the Adelaide - one color only. What about turning the grey suede into separate spats? As Miss Jean Brody might have said: "For those who like that sort of thing, it's the thing they like". Everyone else can bury the spats on the bottom of the wardrobe, or make them part of their Halloween costume. Tries a little too hard.
     


  7. jcusey

    jcusey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Indeed. Those boots would look like something Tom Wolfe would wear if they had white buck instead of gray suede. This is yet another reason to be frustrated with C&J's special order policy. I'm not about to order 12 pairs of those boots so that I can avoid the unreasonable special order charge, but how I would like those boots in that brown.
     


  8. naturlaut

    naturlaut Senior member

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    I will second that.

    I am not in favour of the Perrier-like blucher in brown croco either.  Maybe in black...
     


  9. Rabbi Mark

    Rabbi Mark Well-Known Member

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    way, way over the top.

    but I'll second bengal-stripe's comment on the shoe-trees. Wow.
     


  10. Gatsby

    Gatsby Senior member

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    I remember running across this thread a while back and I finally got to see these shoes in person last weekend at Men's Isetan in Toyko. I have to admit that in person they looked a lot better than in the pictures on the web. The brown/grey Clarence boot wasn't available, but the black/grey combination actually looked very fashion-forward. No one will actually see the pink lining so maybe that can be a little secret just between you and C&J. That said, none of the three models would really be suitable for everyday wear, but more to make a 'shoe statement' at special events or what not. You can't blame C&J for being in celebratory mood. A somewhat related question: does C&J make Handgrades on anything other than last 337? I tried on a pair of Belgraves which were on last 338, which the salesman told me was special ordered with the 125th anniversary shoes. Compared to the regular Belgraves the styling, construction is exactly the same, but the 338 had a rounded toe that wasn't as elongated as the 337. Personally I believe the 337 looks far better. I also noticed that on the sole the C&J 'handgrade' seal was stamped on in silver on the 338, and it was completely missing on the 337. And yes, those anniversary 'embauchoir' look delicious... For those who can't find the article: Souliers C&J 125th
     


  11. lionel

    lionel Well-Known Member

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  12. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    There are a few "Handgrade" models that come on the last 330. At one time all handgrades came on that last; then last 337 was designed by Dimitri Gomez, now this is the standard for the new handgrade models (also designed by Gomez).

    I have never seen the last 338, it's not featured in the catalogue in front of me. I guess, taking my clue from the consecutive number, that the 338 is a (new) variation on the 337 with a rounder toe. Maybe the forthcoming spring/summer collection features that last extensively.
     


  13. jcusey

    jcusey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    What do C&J Handgrades go for at the Paris store? I see both the Tavistock (austerity brogue) and the Villiers (high cap-toe derby boot) on the French C&J website, and I don't believe that those shoes are available from the London store.
     


  14. Alexis

    Alexis Senior member

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  15. RJman

    RJman Posse Member Dubiously Honored

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    475 euros or so for shoes, likely more for boots.
     


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