Dismiss Notice

STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

C&J lasts

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Kaplan, Oct 7, 2008.

  1. beau nash

    beau nash Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    81
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Sep 13, 2008
    I have been holding off on buying a pair of C&Js through Plal since I have never owned a pair before and wasn't sure about the fit. I am going to be in NYC in a couple of weeks, so I may just bite the bullet and buy a pair at T&A. One pair at brick and mortar prices seems a good exchange for the opportunity to try them on and to make sure I like the fit. All future purchases would be online.
     


  2. Avebury

    Avebury Senior member

    Messages:
    314
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Jan 4, 2009
    What is a traditional, classic, English last? Does the 341 last fit into this category, or would something like the 337 be more the ticket? I'm thinking of 'city' shoes - Oxfords, semi-brogues or brogues. Business shoes, in other words. I do wish the quality shoe catalogues would have (as Barker and EG do) a guide to last shapes without a sentence or two about its origins (as EG do). Its difficult to tell from the images what the true last shape actually is. A line drawing is a better point of reference. The Westfield (341) is much narrower at the toe than in the C+J photo.

    Any thoughts?
     


  3. nordicstyle

    nordicstyle Senior member

    Messages:
    702
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Dec 25, 2008
    Location:
    Norway
    I have been holding off on buying a pair of C&Js through Plal since I have never owned a pair before and wasn't sure about the fit. I am going to be in NYC in a couple of weeks, so I may just bite the bullet and buy a pair at T&A. One pair at brick and mortar prices seems a good exchange for the opportunity to try them on and to make sure I like the fit. All future purchases would be online.

    That's what I did. Got my pair at 50% off on sale, but as it turns out the last (318) is quite rare. Thus this method only works if you buy the same last or if the sizes are same between different lasts. Seems the 337 (handgrade only), 341 and 348 are the most popular ones.
     


  4. Tarmac

    Tarmac Senior member

    Messages:
    7,219
    Likes Received:
    23
    Joined:
    Mar 19, 2006
    Location:
    Location: Location
    What is a traditional, classic, English last? Does the 341 last fit into this category, or would something like the 337 be more the ticket? I'm thinking of 'city' shoes - Oxfords, semi-brogues or brogues. Business shoes, in other words. I do wish the quality shoe catalogues would have (as Barker and EG do) a guide to last shapes without a sentence or two about its origins (as EG do). Its difficult to tell from the images what the true last shape actually is. A line drawing is a better point of reference. The Westfield (341) is much narrower at the toe than in the C+J photo.

    Any thoughts?


    In the end they are only subtle differences. Crockett and Jones doesn't make too many extravagant lasts. They are all pretty conservative.

    IMHO the non-elongated, rounded lasts are classic english (I may be very wrong in terms of history). The 325, 330, 236, etc all look very traditional, the 341 is pretty close but it is slightly elongated.

    337 is not old, I think it was invented in the 90s? Someone else knows better. It's both elongated and chiseled, a sure sign of the Noughties.
     


  5. Avebury

    Avebury Senior member

    Messages:
    314
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Jan 4, 2009
    In the end they are only subtle differences. Crockett and Jones doesn't make too many extravagant lasts. They are all pretty conservative.

    IMHO the non-elongated, rounded lasts are classic english (I may be very wrong in terms of history). The 325, 330, 236, etc all look very traditional, the 341 is pretty close but it is slightly elongated.

    337 is not old, I think it was invented in the 90s? Someone else knows better. It's both elongated and chiseled, a sure sign of the Noughties.


    Thanks for the info. I did wonder about the 337. I had a nagging doubt in the back of my mind that the Handgrade "Clifford" didn't look like an old fashioned brogues brogue, if you know what I mean. Undoubtably a great shoe though. It would be nice to see it made in a darker shade of brown - it would have a more studied, mature look. Personal view really, but I think Tan Scotch Country Grain, in fact any light coloured 'country grain', looks a tad bright, the grain picking up the light. Looks a little bit like snake skin, which puts me off. I noticed that Loake have made the "Badminton" in dark brown (used to be Tan) and other makers have followed suit. Fads and fashions? Possibly using the same leather; seasons; same suppliers? David Icke would know!
     


  6. grimslade

    grimslade Senior member

    Messages:
    10,876
    Likes Received:
    36
    Joined:
    Mar 31, 2006
    Location:
    Back in Black
    I own both but only US size conversions.

    In the same exact US size, the 341 runs slightly roomier in width. Slightly. Surprising because it doesn't look like this on the exterior.



    Unrelated to the above, I have since acquired a suede 236 Connaught, it's a great medium round last. I wear it a lot. I also got one of the Peal wholecuts on a 317, its nice but a little stubby. Its like a 337 "stopped short"


    I agree with all of this.
     


  7. william

    william Senior member

    Messages:
    1,554
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Aug 12, 2006
    Location:
    Atlanta, GA
    I own both but only US size conversions.

    In the same exact US size, the 341 runs slightly roomier in width. Slightly. Surprising because it doesn't look like this on the exterior.


    I own the finsbury and the clifford.

    the 341 is slightly shorter in length than the 337. Might be a stretch (pardon the pun) to say a half size smaller, but it is for sure shorter.


    Thanks.

    I'm thinking that I'm gonna go with the same size on the 341 that I wear in the 337.

    It's not a huge deal if you have to exchange with Plal either.
     


  8. nordicstyle

    nordicstyle Senior member

    Messages:
    702
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Dec 25, 2008
    Location:
    Norway
    I just got an e-mail from the C&J mail order people, and they said the 10E size would be the same on all lasts. I'm not sure if this applies to other sizes too though.
     


  9. TKDKid

    TKDKid Senior member

    Messages:
    680
    Likes Received:
    6
    Joined:
    Feb 1, 2004
    Location:
    London, UK
    Handgrade Hanover (337) vs Benchgrade Radstock (341), both UK 6E:

    [​IMG]

    The 341 is a little bit shorter and a little bit wider than the 337.

    My favourite C&J last at the moment is the 324:

    [​IMG]

    Very few models available on it though. [​IMG]
     


  10. Keroberos

    Keroberos Senior member

    Messages:
    193
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Sep 16, 2008
    Location:
    Orlando, FL
    337 is not old, I think it was invented in the 90s? Someone else knows better. It's both elongated and chiseled, a sure sign of the Noughties.
    In ten years, will shoes based on the 337 be viewed as unfashionable, or is it close enough to a classic design that the shoes will likely still fall under the curve of acceptability? I have a feeling that time may be less kind to the 348.
     


  11. sf_esq

    sf_esq Senior member

    Messages:
    748
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Sep 9, 2008
    Location:
    San Francisco, CA
    I think the 337 will stand the test of time better than the 348. I wish I could wear it. The 348 is the only thing that fits my long, narrow feet.
     


  12. Tarmac

    Tarmac Senior member

    Messages:
    7,219
    Likes Received:
    23
    Joined:
    Mar 19, 2006
    Location:
    Location: Location
    Almost all the popular CJ lasts are very conservative. I think they will be fine in 10 or 20 years, but then again only time will tell.
     


  13. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    16,118
    Likes Received:
    1,091
    Joined:
    Apr 21, 2005
    Location:
    Tombstone
    I have a pair of brown suede monks on the 348 I've never worn because they just seem so long.
     


  14. grimslade

    grimslade Senior member

    Messages:
    10,876
    Likes Received:
    36
    Joined:
    Mar 31, 2006
    Location:
    Back in Black
    I have a pair of brown suede monks on the 348 I've never worn because they just seem so long.

    You should see the 348 in a 12. [​IMG]

    I need to go up to T&A again one of these days.
     


  15. sf_esq

    sf_esq Senior member

    Messages:
    748
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Sep 9, 2008
    Location:
    San Francisco, CA
    I'm lucky that I wear a smaller size, the 348 would definitely look even more elongated on medium to larger feet. I have the opposite issue in that some of the more classic lasts, like the EG 202 or even the 337, make my feet look even smaller than they actually are.
     


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by