Buying my first blazer

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Baked Potato, Dec 25, 2012.

  1. Baked Potato

    Baked Potato Senior member

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    I'm thinking about buying my first blazer soon, unfortunately I can't make up my mind so I need your help.


    As this is my first blazer, maybe a dark blue wool blazer with golden button would be good? As it would be easy to match and it is a normal "all around" blazer.


    The biggest problem i have is the brand and whether i should get a made to measure blazer or a RTW. I checked with (Polo) Ralph Lauren and they said that a MTM blazer with my specifications would cost around 9000 SEK (about €1000), the RTW cost 7000 SEK.


    What do you guys think I should do? Go with a RTW or a MTM? Should i choose PRL or another brand?


    As this is my first blazer, I would like to be full-canvased, my future blazers may be  "little" cheaper half-canvassed ones.
     
    Last edited: Dec 29, 2012


  2. saiyar1

    saiyar1 Senior member

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    I don't necessarily think you need to worry so much about half vs full canvas. For example, the polo RL jackets are half canvas and drape wonderfully (on me at least). My best advice is to try on many different brands whenever you get a chance and keep note of what fits best. "Slow and painful" but worth it in the long run. If you see a brand that fits well in the Buy/Sell section then you can confidently pull the trigger without trying it on again.

    That said, Polo should fit nicely as it is fairly unstructured and soft shouldered. As long as you're in decent shape, it molds to your shape and moves nicely. That price is quite steep though. I got my polo RL 40 regular navy blazer new with tags on the Buy/Sell section here for $280 shipped, but it took me 1.5 years of waiting. Decide what a good balance between waiting and price works for you and then go for it. Gold buttons are fine, as are regular buttons... the former being a little more flashy.

    Unless you are very difficult to fit, MtM is unnecessary.
     


  3. Steve Papas

    Steve Papas Well-Known Member

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    It depends on your body type. For some people MTM is the only option. My father was a short and stout man. There are athletic types with large shoulders and chest, with a thin waist. Only a MTM jacket would look good on them. I on the other hand compared the measurements of a RTW jacket with a MTM and there is little difference. It would be hard for me to justify the additional costs. Shortening of the sleeves and a little bit of waist suppression and I am fine.

    When making a price comparison, there are other factors that you should also take into account. Alteration costs. Do you need any? Are they included in the price? If you must pay, add them on to the OTR jacket price. Fabric. Is there a difference in fabric quality? Is it the same?

    As for the buttons, I also think gold buttons are a bit flashy. But that is a matter of taste.
     


  4. Baked Potato

    Baked Potato Senior member

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    Well, I am a little overweight, but i tried one of their blazers on and it fit pretty good. It was a little too long but that can be fixed by their tailor.

    I just thought that MTM is a little more luxurious than RTW, as I said I am a little overweight, but I normally do not have any problems with clothes not fitting me.

    By the way, their salesman told me that their "Made in Italy" blazers are fully canvassed.

    I also thought about a camel jacket, but maybe that's best saved for later?
     
    Last edited: Dec 26, 2012


  5. msulinski

    msulinski Senior member

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    It isn't all that easy to fix the length of the jacket. The sleeve length can be adjusted. Can you try on the same chest size but in Short?

    MTM is not necessarily more luxurious than RTW, though it can be. The main advantage about MTM is the fit. You can also usually select your fabric, so you can pick something "luxurious," though you will pay for it.

    There are probably 3 or more other jackets (including the navy one) you should get before a camel one.
     


  6. saiyar1

    saiyar1 Senior member

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    Agreed... Shortening sleeves is fine. Shortening the jacket itself, No, don 't do it. Try Brooks Brothers for a similar fit. Big sale now.
     


  7. GBR

    GBR Senior member

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  8. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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    I've never been able to buy anything off-the-rack ever since I sauntered down the bespoke lane. It's like dining on good steak and never being able to go back to crappy ones. If you want a good fit, custom at a decent tailor is probably the way to go (and possibly cheaper than a branded garment to boot).
     


  9. Baked Potato

    Baked Potato Senior member

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  10. saiyar1

    saiyar1 Senior member

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    You're recommending his FIRST blazer be MTM??? He probably doesn't know his exact tastes to make commissioning one worth it. Of course it's worth it if he's about to pay $1000 for a blazer, but then again, when have we ever recommended a scenrio such as that?

    Op, shop a little and find a great fit at a good price.
     


  11. Baked Potato

    Baked Potato Senior member

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    How are Boss Black's, Boss Selection's and Tiger of Sweden's blazers? Are they comparable to PRL?

    How much more does MTM from Black and Purple Label cost compared to Polo?
     


  12. Jhors2

    Jhors2 Senior member

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    If I were you I'd sit around on the Buying and Selling forum, there are quite a few navy blue blazers that go through there of amazing quality. I'd stick with RLBL, Caruso, Coreliani, etc, somewhere right around there. Only really need to fork out the extra cash for MTM if your body proportions are quite odd.
     


  13. Baked Potato

    Baked Potato Senior member

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    I remember reading a thread here about MTM from PRL. I read that MTM PRL costs more than MTM from Corneliani, which is quite odd because I checked it out and a MTM blazer from Corneliani would cost around 11-12 000 SEK, compared to the 9 000 SEK for PRL.

    I also know a place here in town which does MTM from Belvest and Caruso. I don't know their prices, but would that be more worth than MTM from PRL?

    I also would an answer to the question i asked above, how much does a MTM blazer from Black and Purple Label cost?
     


  14. Baked Potato

    Baked Potato Senior member

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    I would be really happy if i could get more answers because I'll be going to check some blazers on Sunday.

    Which brands would you guys recommend for RTW/MTM for 9 000 SEK (€1000)? We got most brands as Mabro, Corneliani, Ralph Lauren and many others here.
     


  15. GBR

    GBR Senior member

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    Yes

    My first 'adult' suit was bespoken at my late Father's tailor when I was 17. That experience was sufficient to convince me of the merits of bespoke/MTM and I have stayed resolute for over 40 years since. My demands and preferences have changed over the years but those influences have been good ones. Indeed some of the preferences of my Father which influenced that first suit have reappeared since and right they were too.
     
    Last edited: Dec 29, 2012


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