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Buying menswear on AliExpress? You're kidding, right?

BrownUrge

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DCdress Store has a lot of solid waistcoats. I've bought several from them. The poly or poly/cotton herringbone flannel(?) they use has varying degrees of quality, but it leaves a good enough impression. The buttons are often too cheap and need to be replaced. The cuts are good but the half-belts can always do with some post-market reinforcement where they meet the back, at least if you cinch aggressively like me. The XS sizes have been consistent so far. Can't say who actually makes each item listed, so I've only bought stuff that seems to be made by the same people. They also have a half-decent 4-exterior-pocket sportcoat listed. It's got only a single shallow internal pocket, loose buttons, and a cheap-looking lapel roll. I suspect that it wouldn't look so bad if it were held in place by an actual button with an actual shank. The fabric of mine matches 1 of 2 navy waistcoats I have from them, interestingly enough. Probably goes without saying, but their listings have terribly misleading fabrics and colors. The cuts are almost accurate to the listings.

Here's the stuff I've bought from them, some personal photos will eventually follow:

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804476238515.html (the aforementioned sportcoat)
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256801852949510.html (lapelled waistcoat)
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803465665042.html (stand collar waistcoat)
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804001097960.html (double-breasted shawl collar waistcoat)
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804767688979.html (corduroy waistcoat, not advised, honestly can't remember why, might be a bad reason)
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803601602892.html (actual tweed-weight fabric, slightly scratchy so there might be wool in it)
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804805878061.html (standard waistcoat, slightly higher bottom hem than the rest, very useful flap pockets)
 

DougDevious

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DCdress Store has a lot of solid waistcoats. I've bought several from them. The poly or poly/cotton herringbone flannel(?) they use has varying degrees of quality, but it leaves a good enough impression. The buttons are often too cheap and need to be replaced. The cuts are good but the half-belts can always do with some post-market reinforcement where they meet the back, at least if you cinch aggressively like me. The XS sizes have been consistent so far. Can't say who actually makes each item listed, so I've only bought stuff that seems to be made by the same people. They also have a half-decent 4-exterior-pocket sportcoat listed. It's got only a single shallow internal pocket, loose buttons, and a cheap-looking lapel roll. I suspect that it wouldn't look so bad if it were held in place by an actual button with an actual shank. The fabric of mine matches 1 of 2 navy waistcoats I have from them, interestingly enough. Probably goes without saying, but their listings have terribly misleading fabrics and colors. The cuts are almost accurate to the listings.

Here's the stuff I've bought from them, some personal photos will eventually follow:

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804476238515.html (the aforementioned sportcoat)
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256801852949510.html (lapelled waistcoat)
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803465665042.html (stand collar waistcoat)
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804001097960.html (double-breasted shawl collar waistcoat)
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804767688979.html (corduroy waistcoat, not advised, honestly can't remember why, might be a bad reason)
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803601602892.html (actual tweed-weight fabric, slightly scratchy so there might be wool in it)
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804805878061.html (standard waistcoat, slightly higher bottom hem than the rest, very useful flap pockets)
Surprised to see that this thread not only got posted to again, but that I'm not the only one!
have you done anything custom?
 

BrownUrge

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Surprised to see that this thread not only got posted to again, but that I'm not the only one!
have you done anything custom?
One of those "tweed" 3-piece suits, exactly like the one in your OP. Mine fit worse than yours, actually. The jacket was incredibly tight, the sleeves were off by a few inches, the waistcoat was baggy, and the pants just didn't fit. It was back before I'd figured out the sorts of cuts I liked, so no instructions were given to them besides my measurements.

I've plans to get something custom made by a reenactment reproduction company (Hikishop) in the future, and a few of those flap-pocket AliExpress waistcoats in different colors. The Hikishop plan is perhaps a long shot, since what I want is a suit built around a German M40 tunic with a ton of modifications. The waistcoat plan is imminent--I'm already talking to DCdress. Here's hoping they're merciful with pricing since it'll be an order of 3 with combined shipping.

Attached is an autistic little GIMP (that's right, not MS Paint because I'm special :^)) drawing of what I want from Hikishop. The jacket, anyway. They'll probably charge quite a bit for the armpit gussets and the pocket arrangement being completely changed, if they accept the order in the first place. Once we're in talks, I might propose a few more modifications like shooting pads for the shoulders, but that seems a bit major (e.g., pricey). The reason I mention all this Hikishop stuff is because I'm fairly certain that they're China-based. Close enough to AliExpress, right?
 

Attachments

  • jacket.png
    jacket.png
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DougDevious

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One of those "tweed" 3-piece suits, exactly like the one in your OP. Mine fit worse than yours, actually. The jacket was incredibly tight, the sleeves were off by a few inches, the waistcoat was baggy, and the pants just didn't fit. It was back before I'd figured out the sorts of cuts I liked, so no instructions were given to them besides my measurements.

I've plans to get something custom made by a reenactment reproduction company (Hikishop) in the future, and a few of those flap-pocket AliExpress waistcoats in different colors. The Hikishop plan is perhaps a long shot, since what I want is a suit built around a German M40 tunic with a ton of modifications. The waistcoat plan is imminent--I'm already talking to DCdress. Here's hoping they're merciful with pricing since it'll be an order of 3 with combined shipping.

Attached is an autistic little GIMP (that's right, not MS Paint because I'm special :^)) drawing of what I want from Hikishop. The jacket, anyway. They'll probably charge quite a bit for the armpit gussets and the pocket arrangement being completely changed, if they accept the order in the first place. Once we're in talks, I might propose a few more modifications like shooting pads for the shoulders, but that seems a bit major (e.g., pricey). The reason I mention all this Hikishop stuff is because I'm fairly certain that they're China-based. Close enough to AliExpress, right?
you wouldn't happen to be the anon who posted his outfit idea drawings in that one /fa/ thread i made, would you? i remember someone posted something pretty similar to that
 

BrownUrge

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you wouldn't happen to be the anon who posted his outfit idea drawings in that one /fa/ thread i made, would you? i remember someone posted something pretty similar to that
Yeah, that was me. I'm sick of /fa/ and decided to come over here. This place is a bit boring to me so far, but it beats that 'hole; often less interesting, but far less upsetting. Maybe it'll be more fun to me after being aged another 10 years.

The iteration of the drawing from this thread is more for actual communication, where the ones in the thread back there were more for fun.
 

DougDevious

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Yeah, that was me. I'm sick of /fa/ and decided to come over here. This place is a bit boring to me so far, but it beats that 'hole; often less interesting, but far less upsetting. Maybe it'll be more fun to me after being aged another 10 years.

The iteration of the drawing from this thread is more for actual communication, where the ones in the thread back there were more for fun.
That's pretty cool to hear.

If you want some advice: I'd maybe drop the gussets and back jacket pockets. Gussets are probably not gonna be the kind of thing you can ask for on Aliexpress and the back jacket pockets are gonna be pretty awkward and kind of unnecessary with all the other pockets you already have.
Other than that seems like a pretty cool design, i might suggest an action back or pleated back for the jacket as is common on this type of norfolk-style jacket. that's probably gonna give you the same benefits as what you want from a gusseted sleeve

also a funny thing is that sometimes looking on aliexpress i have seen listings that use images stolen from here, i can remember seeing one of An Acute Style's pics show up there
 

BrownUrge

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That's pretty cool to hear.

If you want some advice: I'd maybe drop the gussets and back jacket pockets. Gussets are probably not gonna be the kind of thing you can ask for on Aliexpress and the back jacket pockets are gonna be pretty awkward and kind of unnecessary with all the other pockets you already have.
Other than that seems like a pretty cool design, i might suggest an action back or pleated back for the jacket as is common on this type of norfolk-style jacket. that's probably gonna give you the same benefits as what you want from a gusseted sleeve

also a funny thing is that sometimes looking on aliexpress i have seen listings that use images stolen from here, i can remember seeing one of An Acute Style's pics show up there
Hikishop (not exactly Aliexpress, just Chinese-based) specializes in militaria, especially tunics. They don't make anything with armpit gussets, but I figure they'll have an easier time doing it than just about anyone else. I'll ask about action shoulders if they say armpit gussets won't work. Think action shoulders are easier or harder to do than gussets? I'm unsure. You're right about the back pockets being terribly bulky, and I know firsthand from my Swedish M39. They're stupid, but I love them. It'd make a lot of sense to have them made smaller (chest pocket size?). It shouldn't be an issue with a belt, anyway. I'll be doing that instead of having them make the belt in hopes of saving a few dollars and simplifying the order.

Now, the vest (sick of "waistcoat", I'm American dammit) stuff...

DISCLAIMERS:
>Today, I ran out for about an hour with the navy shirt, brown tie, these pants, and a raincoat. It was raining.
>The pants are bulky with a nominal 32" waist (mine is 27") and probably aren't meant to be worn high-rise, which is what is being done with suspenders.
>I know everything that is wrong with these pants. I didn't feel like unbuttoning my suspenders to put on another pair of pants. It is what it is.
>The purpose of the fit pics is to show the vests, I know how bad the fits are. That is, excepting the gray one. I think the gray one is acceptable and may wear it tomorrow.
>The nail polish is because of my gf, and is something I am not particularly happy with.
>I only have 3 vests with me, more to follow in a month or so.

fits.png

closeups and lineup.png


The blue vest is interesting; very long, jacket-sized buttons, cheviot/tweed/something wool (blend?). It's probably not made by the same people as the other ones shown. I say that because of how different it is. The only thing that could suggest that it was made by the same people is that they use the same sizing. I've worn it a moderate amount and it's held up.

The red ("burgundy") vest is my dressiest; something I used to wear often. The belt started tearing on one side so I just zig-zag reinforced it through the lining. Looks like the other side will need jury-rigging soon. The original buttons were disgustingly cheap, shiny, red plastic with obvious seams. The new ones are the cuff buttons from a butchered sportcoat (which will be spats, one day), and the originals were shunted into the role of suspender buttons. Conveniently, the burgundy XS option was what they use to make the listing look cheaper to get clicks (e.g., it was $12.50 before shipping and the rest were $17.50 iirc).

The gray vest seems to be made by the same people as the red. I got the same deal on it, too. The buttons are cheap upon close inspection (debatably, so is the fabric) but inoffensive. In the picture, The pockets are fully packed (lighter, floss, keys, car key, bandaids, etc.) and it hardly shows. Often, when it's hot out, I'll wear it open without a tie. I've worn it most days for the past month. The damage shows on the belt but nowhere else. This time, I plan to open the lining up, add a piece of thick fabric behind the belt, and do a similar reinforcement to the red vest's; possibly in a cross or x.

I finished talking with DCdress and ordered 3 more vests like the gray one in different colors (burgundy, navy, "orange"). Hopefully it'll be done before too much of summer passes. They told me to just order 3 of the size I wanted, and they'd make them in the colors as per my request. That meant $12.50 each before shipping. Here's the fabric lineup they sent me:

fabrics.png
 

DougDevious

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Hikishop (not exactly Aliexpress, just Chinese-based) specializes in militaria, especially tunics. They don't make anything with armpit gussets, but I figure they'll have an easier time doing it than just about anyone else. I'll ask about action shoulders if they say armpit gussets won't work. Think action shoulders are easier or harder to do than gussets? I'm unsure. You're right about the back pockets being terribly bulky, and I know firsthand from my Swedish M39. They're stupid, but I love them. It'd make a lot of sense to have them made smaller (chest pocket size?). It shouldn't be an issue with a belt, anyway. I'll be doing that instead of having them make the belt in hopes of saving a few dollars and simplifying the order.

Now, the vest (sick of "waistcoat", I'm American dammit) stuff...

DISCLAIMERS:
>Today, I ran out for about an hour with the navy shirt, brown tie, these pants, and a raincoat. It was raining.
>The pants are bulky with a nominal 32" waist (mine is 27") and probably aren't meant to be worn high-rise, which is what is being done with suspenders.
>I know everything that is wrong with these pants. I didn't feel like unbuttoning my suspenders to put on another pair of pants. It is what it is.
>The purpose of the fit pics is to show the vests, I know how bad the fits are. That is, excepting the gray one. I think the gray one is acceptable and may wear it tomorrow.
>The nail polish is because of my gf, and is something I am not particularly happy with.
>I only have 3 vests with me, more to follow in a month or so.

View attachment 2200425
View attachment 2200453

The blue vest is interesting; very long, jacket-sized buttons, cheviot/tweed/something wool (blend?). It's probably not made by the same people as the other ones shown. I say that because of how different it is. The only thing that could suggest that it was made by the same people is that they use the same sizing. I've worn it a moderate amount and it's held up.

The red ("burgundy") vest is my dressiest; something I used to wear often. The belt started tearing on one side so I just zig-zag reinforced it through the lining. Looks like the other side will need jury-rigging soon. The original buttons were disgustingly cheap, shiny, red plastic with obvious seams. The new ones are the cuff buttons from a butchered sportcoat (which will be spats, one day), and the originals were shunted into the role of suspender buttons. Conveniently, the burgundy XS option was what they use to make the listing look cheaper to get clicks (e.g., it was $12.50 before shipping and the rest were $17.50 iirc).

The gray vest seems to be made by the same people as the red. I got the same deal on it, too. The buttons are cheap upon close inspection (debatably, so is the fabric) but inoffensive. In the picture, The pockets are fully packed (lighter, floss, keys, car key, bandaids, etc.) and it hardly shows. Often, when it's hot out, I'll wear it open without a tie. I've worn it most days for the past month. The damage shows on the belt but nowhere else. This time, I plan to open the lining up, add a piece of thick fabric behind the belt, and do a similar reinforcement to the red vest's; possibly in a cross or x.

I finished talking with DCdress and ordered 3 more vests like the gray one in different colors (burgundy, navy, "orange"). Hopefully it'll be done before too much of summer passes. They told me to just order 3 of the size I wanted, and they'd make them in the colors as per my request. That meant $12.50 each before shipping. Here's the fabric lineup they sent me:

View attachment 2200457
Pretty neat. I applaud your DIY fixer-upper ethic. Your modern-workwear meets western style is pretty neat too.
But dang, If my vests needed to be cinched that hard I probably would just get them tailored. They look a little long too
Also, cool bowtie in the first pic, where'd you find that?


EDIT: oh and btw, its spelt "jerry-rigged", not "jury-rigged"
Also, that burgundy tweed looks good, I might have to get a suit in that fabric
 
Last edited:

BrownUrge

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Pretty neat. I applaud your DIY fixer-upper ethic. Your modern-workwear meets western style is pretty neat too.
But dang, If my vests needed to be cinched that hard I probably would just get them tailored. They look a little long too
Also, cool bowtie in the first pic, where'd you find that?


EDIT: oh and btw, its spelt "jerry-rigged", not "jury-rigged"
Also, that burgundy tweed looks good, I might have to get a suit in that fabric
This is the first time I've seen what the backs look like while worn. They are a bit unsightly, aren't they? Next time, I might try for the custom size option. It'd hurt me to pay a western tailor full price just to take in a <$15 vest, and I don't have the time to do it myself. So hey, maybe when I have money.

The ties are homemade. They're made like the cravat in this video, but just as a long rectangle with no pleats: . I find that folding it behind the neck works better than having any amount of pleats, and it's easier to do. The pair shown in my pics are actually made from Aliexpress ties (it takes 2 to make 1). The viscose/cotton jersey(?) is near perfect.

ties.png



https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803961612142.html (brown)
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803120654714.html (burgundy)

Guess I'll sperg out about these things, why not.

Notes:
>Fabric is cut to 2 pieces of 2¾-3" x X rectangles. The seam allowance is ~¼" and they tend to come out around ~2-2⅜".
>I'm 5'6", my collar size is 15". All lengths are based on myself.
>X = 24.5" is the minimum to make a barrel knot that looks like a bow tie. A single tie can usually be converted into this.
>X = 32" is the minimum to make a short bow knot, no tails. A single tie with an additional insert of ≥8" behind the neck can usually be converted into this. Such an insert should not be much longer, or it risks getting caught in the knot. If it were appropriately off-center, this could be longer.
>X = 36" allows a moderately large bow knot, no tails. It also allows for a barrel knot, short tails.
>X = 40-50" is for general use, and allows a symmetric 4-in-hand that ends just above the natural waist. The ties shown are somewhere around 45", iirc.
>X = 60" is about the same as the 1st Doctor's.

I found a Townsend's ripoff today (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806434248542.html):
funny townsends.png

They're supposedly making it in some sort of fake polyester-spandex suede instead of linen. Weird. "Material: 97% Terylene, 3% Spandex (Imitation Cowhide) This Men's Cowhide Suede Vest, high quality fabric blend made". Needless to say, I have no interest. It's just funny.

This fair-isle sweater intrigues me. The reviews look pretty good, they're not doing anything weird like printing the pattern. (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806071457228.html):
sweatervest.png


One last thing, my suspenders. They've undergone a few modifications and repairs. They were initially clip-ons that I slapped button hooks from a pair of Aliexpress suspenders into.
suspenders.png


I lied. One more thing. Maybe it's just "jerry-rig" in your backwards, upside-down, neo-angloidal world. Here, we have "jury-rig" and "jerry-rig".
 

DougDevious

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They were initially clip-ons that I slapped button hooks from a pair of Aliexpress suspenders into.
Interesting, because I've also thought of doing that too. Theres also a lot of decent silk brocade suspenders on aliexpress that are just held back by being clip-ons instead of button tabs, and it helps that button tab suspender attachments are sold standalone for repairs and modifications.

While we're on the topic of making ties out of other ties, for a long time now I've had a special soft-spot for batwing clip-on bowties of the 50s and 60s. Not exactly a style choice that speaks to much refinement, but they appeal to me for unique qualities that are nigh impossible to find on any other modern or self-tie bow ties, like their shape, their art-deco designs, and their surprising but somehow yet unacknowledged prevalence in pop culture even long after the 60s.

Of course, the problem is that proper vintage ones tend to be expensive and it's not guaranteed that I'm gonna find the kind I want even if they weren't, so it's just as well that there are plenty of ties and bowties on aliexpress that can easily be cut apart and sewn into a batwing clip-on bowtie, with even the exact kind of clip they tended to use being available for pennies on the dollar.

It helps that for the more uncommon horizontal/vertical striped designs, all one has to do is take a diagonal striped necktie and cut it diagonally, since neckties are cut and sewn diagonally while bowties aren't.

And to get even MORE autistic about it, I've created a chart featuring all the unique designs I've seen these kind of bowties tend to have, so that I can track and direct my journey to a satisfactory collection of such
bow ties i want.png
 

BrownUrge

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Interesting, because I've also thought of doing that too. Theres also a lot of decent silk brocade suspenders on aliexpress that are just held back by being clip-ons instead of button tabs, and it helps that button tab suspender attachments are sold standalone for repairs and modifications.

While we're on the topic of making ties out of other ties, for a long time now I've had a special soft-spot for batwing clip-on bowties of the 50s and 60s. Not exactly a style choice that speaks to much refinement, but they appeal to me for unique qualities that are nigh impossible to find on any other modern or self-tie bow ties, like their shape, their art-deco designs, and their surprising but somehow yet unacknowledged prevalence in pop culture even long after the 60s.

Of course, the problem is that proper vintage ones tend to be expensive and it's not guaranteed that I'm gonna find the kind I want even if they weren't, so it's just as well that there are plenty of ties and bowties on aliexpress that can easily be cut apart and sewn into a batwing clip-on bowtie, with even the exact kind of clip they tended to use being available for pennies on the dollar.

It helps that for the more uncommon horizontal/vertical striped designs, all one has to do is take a diagonal striped necktie and cut it diagonally, since neckties are cut and sewn diagonally while bowties aren't.

And to get even MORE autistic about it, I've created a chart featuring all the unique designs I've seen these kind of bowties tend to have, so that I can track and direct my journey to a satisfactory collection of such
View attachment 2200813
B5 is offensive to me, but it--for lack of a better term--goes hard. I think about it a lot.

Have you had any luck with "silk" from Aliexpress? As I recall, the only convincing silk article I've ordered from them was a bow tie (listing after paragraph). Practically never wore it, so my memory of the thing isn't perfect. I took a look at some of those silk suspenders you mentioned and there are some interesting options. That said, I currently plan to wear mine until they're beyond repair. Bet I could keep them going indefinitely ship-of-Theseus style. A backup in another color can't hurt, but it can wait.

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803891294283.html (the bow tie)

I ended up ordering the sweatervest from my last post. It was down to ~$18 what with the summer sale and all. It's cotton, supposedly. I suspect that it's cotton/polyester, but there's always the chance that it's cotton/viscose or even cotton. If it turns out to be cotton/polyester, there's at least the advantage that I'll feel better about beating it up. Synthetics in sweaters isn't the worst thing, whatever. Hopefully it's the right size, too. I mostly wear oversized sweaters, but there's a reasonable limit that's often exceeded in Asia.

On pattern direction in neckwear: I like the asymmetric gesture of diagonal stripes. The aspect in which it contrasts checks/stripes is neat. That said, perpendicular/parallel patterns are underused and underrated. They also create a very interesting effect with alternative knots like barrels, bows, and cascades. Same goes for alternative orientations for certain patterns, like horizontal herringbone. I've had a thing for it ever since watching Blade Runner for the first time.

more ties.jpg


I'd like to sperg about a few characters now, but that'll be saved for another thread.
 
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