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Buying a Tux

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by ginghamphatts, Feb 15, 2011.

  1. Master Squirrel

    Master Squirrel Well-Known Member

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    I personally like like wing collars, it's a break away from the norm of turndown collars. A chance to do something different for neckwear and it is not weird with black tie.

    However nobody here will probably do it.


    Wings are correct. I prefer turndown myself.
     
  2. Kent Wang

    Kent Wang Well-Known Member

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    Still trying to figure out where to find a pique turndown collar shirt that uses 3 studs rather than 4.
    I sell such a pique tuxedo shirt for $125. I think the history behind it is that shirts used to have only three studs but stud sets were sold in sets of four with the extra as a spare, but then some fools thought that meant shirts should have four stud holes.
     
  3. phoenixrecon

    phoenixrecon Well-Known Member

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    yes you need french cuffs.... imo
     
  4. Sotiris

    Sotiris Well-Known Member

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    I sell such a pique tuxedo shirt for $125.

    I think the history behind it is that shirts used to have only three studs but stud sets were sold in sets of four with the extra as a spare, but then some fools thought that meant shirts should have four stud holes.


    That's great! Thank you.

    Nice to hear the possible history behind the change too. I have two stud sets inherited from my grandfather, so I am very grateful for your response.
     
  5. naatkins

    naatkins Active Member

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    Feb 9, 2011
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    North Carolina
    I've started looking into getting a tux for my wedding, it's still over a year away so I have time to look around, but I've grown fond of this slim shawl collar one from J. Crew. I wanted shawl to begin with, not that I don't like peak, but to me the shawl is a nice take on it IMO.

    http://www.jcrew.com/mens_feature/we...cr8YpIIPcXS32w


    Anyone have experience with J. Crew tuxes? One of the reasons I was considering it aside form the fit and style was the fact that pants are purchased separately, which helps considering I usually take a 38 jacket because of my shoulders, but I'm a 28-29 in the waist, depending on the brand.
     
  6. pvrhye

    pvrhye Well-Known Member

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    Look for the little loop under the back of the collar on the shirt. It stops your bowtie from sagging. Also, notch lapels are an abomination on tuxedos. Peak or shawl. I cut a deal with my pseudo-fiance that when we get married I can get a really nice tux. On that note, I'm curious to see how yours looks. Websites are always under perfect conditions with dudes who look nothing like real people.
     
  7. andrew96

    andrew96 Well-Known Member

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    Jan 24, 2011
    I am normally a notch lapel guy, but the reason is that most peak lapels suck. I highly recommend a good peak lapel double breasted, just watch out for ones that are too wide.
     
  8. autospy

    autospy Member

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    Long time lurker, but I had to post this.

    Go buy the JAB signature peak lapel tux in-store NOW. I picked it up today for $238.50. There is some corporate event going on today (15th) and tomorrow (16th) that has tuxedo's priced 70% off. I'm not a corporate member, but they gave me the price anyway. Even if you end up returning it...lock in the price.
     
  9. Bounder

    Bounder Well-Known Member

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    Mar 14, 2009
    Well, JAB is always having some sort of sale. The problem is that they can hardly do their "Buy 3 get 8" sale (or whatever it is) with formal wear. Gingham, Mark is completely correct about the peak lapel. It's great you decided to go that way. Wherever you get your tux from, save $100 or so for the single most important accessory you can possible get: proper tailoring. If you want your tux to look really great, make sure to take your tux to an independent tailor for proper fitting. Under no circumstances should you let the house tailor do anything whatsoever or take any of his advice. The tailors who work in-house at JAB or anywhere else are not there to make sure your tux fits you properly. They are there to help the sales person close the sale with as little trouble and expense as possible. Do not listen to a single word they say about anything. Instead, find a good alterations tailor who will give you unbiased advice about proper fit. He will make sure your new DJ is altered to actually fit you and you will, consequently, look excellent and will be within the top 5% of tuxedo-wearers even at serious black-tie events.
     
  10. TimelesStyle

    TimelesStyle Well-Known Member

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    Dec 25, 2010
    I've started looking into getting a tux for my wedding, it's still over a year away so I have time to look around, but I've grown fond of this slim shawl collar one from J. Crew. I wanted shawl to begin with, not that I don't like peak, but to me the shawl is a nice take on it IMO.

    http://www.jcrew.com/mens_feature/we...cr8YpIIPcXS32w


    Anyone have experience with J. Crew tuxes? One of the reasons I was considering it aside form the fit and style was the fact that pants are purchased separately, which helps considering I usually take a 38 jacket because of my shoulders, but I'm a 28-29 in the waist, depending on the brand.


    It may be an OK tux, but I'd never pay $730 for it! That's only about $250 less than I spent to get one at the Zegna outlet store last month. You can most certainly do better for that money.

    It is a nice looking tux, though, and were it 50-60% off, I'd say go for it.

    Walking through an H&M recently, I did see some slim shawls there, though I did not check to see if all details were correct. The price, however, was under $200 for pants and jacket.
     
  11. stubloom

    stubloom Well-Known Member

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    Jun 18, 2010
    If your'e going to buy a tux, you'll probably clean it before you put it away for the season. If you do clean it, a word of caution: Most dry cleaners haven't got a clue how to press a tuxedo jacket after cleaning. Almost every tuxedo brought in, picked up or sent in by a NEW client is "damaged" to some degree or another. I see tuxedo jackets with shine, seam impressions, hard pressing and, most of all, satin or polyester lapels that have been melted or burnt by an iron. Never allow a dry cleaner to machine press your tuxedo. And when they do hand press the jacket, make sure that they adjust the iron temperature when transitioning from the wool to the satin or polyester. Blog post: So your cleaner ruined your tuxedo http://ravefabricare.com/true-qualit...ur-tuxedo.aspx
     
  12. delavegatailors

    delavegatailors Member

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    Jan 25, 2011
    I would recommend the classic and timeless tuxedo style. You will always be right with this combination:

    • TUXEDO JACKET: -Single breasted / -One button / -Peaked lapel / -No back vents

    • TUXEDO PANTS: -No front pleats / -Straight pockets (more formal than slanted) / No cuffs (of course!!!)

    Regarding the shirt, I also suggest turndown collar, and YES, you need to go with French cuffs. You will need a black silk bowtie and a cummerbund. Black oxford shoes will complete the outfit.
     
  13. TimelesStyle

    TimelesStyle Well-Known Member

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    Dec 25, 2010
    I would recommend the classic and timeless tuxedo style. You will always be right with this combination:

    • TUXEDO JACKET: -Single breasted / -One button / -Peaked lapel / -No back vents

    • TUXEDO PANTS: -No front pleats / -Straight pockets (more formal than slanted) / No cuffs (of course!!!)

    Regarding the shirt, I also suggest turndown collar, and YES, you need to go with French cuffs. You will need a black silk bowtie and a cummerbund. Black oxford shoes will complete the outfit.


    Only thing to add is make sure the tie matches the lapel/trouser facings.
     
  14. pvrhye

    pvrhye Well-Known Member

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    Dec 23, 2010
    Location:
    화곡동 - Seoul
    I would recommend the classic and timeless tuxedo style. You will always be right with this combination:

    • TUXEDO JACKET: -Single breasted / -One button / -Peaked lapel / -No back vents

    • TUXEDO PANTS: -No front pleats / -Straight pockets (more formal than slanted) / No cuffs (of course!!!)

    Regarding the shirt, I also suggest turndown collar, and YES, you need to go with French cuffs. You will need a black silk bowtie and a cummerbund. Black oxford shoes will complete the outfit.


    There's a good argument for no pockets on the trousers, so if you see them that way don't worry about it. Ideally they're the kind of trousers that are cut for braces and not one of the velted things that a certain James Bond has been sporting lately.
     
  15. tgt465

    tgt465 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    379
    Joined:
    Dec 6, 2010
    I would recommend the classic and timeless tuxedo style. You will always be right with this combination:

    • TUXEDO JACKET: -Single breasted / -One button / -Peaked lapel / -No back vents

    • TUXEDO PANTS: -No front pleats / -Straight pockets (more formal than slanted) / No cuffs (of course!!!)

    Regarding the shirt, I also suggest turndown collar, and YES, you need to go with French cuffs. You will need a black silk bowtie and a cummerbund. Black oxford shoes will complete the outfit.


    Pleated pants are more classic than non-pleated.
     
  16. Sanguis Mortuum

    Sanguis Mortuum Well-Known Member

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    Location:
    Cambridge, England
    Pleated pants are more classic than non-pleated.

    I don't think they're more classic. Black Tie Guide says they are 'the dressiest option', but that's not quite the same thing. Personally I'd avoid double pleats on tuxedo trousers but a small single pleat can look nice.
     
  17. autospy

    autospy Member

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    Feb 15, 2011
    Well, JAB is always having some sort of sale.

    During the JAB sales, this tux usually goes for 60% off -- $318.
     
  18. TimelesStyle

    TimelesStyle Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,007
    Joined:
    Dec 25, 2010
    If your'e going to buy a tux, you'll probably clean it before you put it away for the season.

    If you do clean it, a word of caution: Most dry cleaners haven't got a clue how to press a tuxedo jacket after cleaning. Almost every tuxedo brought in, picked up or sent in by a NEW client is "damaged" to some degree or another. I see tuxedo jackets with shine, seam impressions, hard pressing and, most of all, satin or polyester lapels that have been melted or burnt by an iron.

    Never allow a dry cleaner to machine press your tuxedo. And when they do hand press the jacket, make sure that they adjust the iron temperature when transitioning from the wool to the satin or polyester.

    Blog post: So your cleaner ruined your tuxedo
    http://ravefabricare.com/true-qualit...ur-tuxedo.aspx


    Is there something else besides the lapel facings/trouser stripes that makes pressing a tux different?

    Also, as an aside, how do you iron/press the peaks on peak lapel jackets so they don't curl over a bit (almost like rabbit ears, lol)? Is the best solution just to have a tailor add an extra thread to secure it to the collar?
     
  19. pvrhye

    pvrhye Well-Known Member

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    Flat front brace-cut trousers sound odd to me.
     
  20. TimelesStyle

    TimelesStyle Well-Known Member

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    Flat front brace-cut trousers sound odd to me.

    Well, not all tuxedo-wearing men like their trousers as high-waisted as brace-specific trousers would likely be. I, for one, fall into that category. Besides, what does it matter, braces are seen less on your tux than on any other garment, and in fact great effort is often made to hide them (like wearing white ones or using a waistcoat instead of a cummerbund.

    Also, let's be honest: unless one is going truly bespoke, a tux maker is going to base their tuxes on the same silhouettes as their suits and the vast majority of OTR/MTM suits aren't designed specifically for braces.

    Perhaps for those men preferring lower trousers there should be more of a movement by tux makers to incorporate side tabs instead of braces.
     

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