Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Bryan101, Nov 23, 2011.
Have you tried Paul Stuart
I'm not from NY, but I can imagine that a good bespoke would be a bit more expensive there than for those of us living between NY and LA. Here in the Mid-West $2K will fetch you a very nice bespoke, which will always trump anything you can get from a store, as far as fit is concerned and even materials in most cases (for the same price, of course).
Quote: That's pretty much the most important part. With you being 5`9 and healthy weight - you will have to do alterations no matter if you go with 42 or 44, especially in the waist
I agree Paul Stuart, I always wish they have a store in UK
also I does seems you do not need a new suit now, so why not save more until you can afford a excellent bespoke e.g. David Reese's 600 stitches
I doubt people will lack of knowledge in clothes if they lurk here once per day
That's how I start, I don't think it is Impossible to get the good fit first time, it is rather whether you like the house style or not
from your own description of your build and also in consideration of your budget I would encourage you to look into a Canali.
The fit is friendly for a barrel chested or athletic build and their suits are very flattering in general.
I would be interested in what you would have to say about Brioni after you try one on. I know its a name that is known and respected but I would go out on a limb and say that of the bunch a Brioni would be the worst fit for your frame.
Those would be my top 3
I am 5'9" 170lbs and somewhat top heavy. I wear 44R in Isaia, Belvest, etc.
I actually have a 46 R suit that fits. When I was younger and ran 20-30 miles/week
I was still a 42R.
Have you tried Paul Stuart?
Thank you everyone for the input. Being that it was a slow day at the office before the holiday break, I cut out early to check out some of the suggestions posted here.
Walked into Paul Stuart and was directed into the Phineas Cole section. I explained to the helpful salesman what I was looking for, style & color wise, and that the Ermenegildo Zegna “cut” was my favorite thus far. He produced a 2 button 42R Phineas Cole suit as well as a 1 button Phineas Cole jacket so I could try on a different look. The 2 button was cut very similar to the Ermenegildo Zegna, in an almost identical color. The only obvious difference was the addition of a “train ticket” pocket. Not sure if this is too trendy of a look that will be out of style in a year or so.
Overall the suit was a great fit in that was very close to Zegna. Oh, and at $1,000 less!
Only thing I didn’t like was the claim that they only had 1 suit in stock in this size, style and color at any time. Once sold they had to “order” a new one, and it might not be available next week when…thanks to AMEX… I can make a purchase. I found this hard to swallow. It came off like a used car salesman pushing to get a car off the lot. But maybe I’m wrong and just don’t know how the suit biz works.
Saks 5th Ave for Canali and others:
Went into Saks and explained what I was looking for to the salesman in the Canali section. Not the greatest service… I wouldn’t say he had a “bad” attitude but he didn’t seem into helping me unless I prodded him with questions. Also the suit “sales” at Saks seemed more limited than what I had seen in other stores.
He didn’t have a solid Navy Canali to show me in a “trim” cut. He only had a Navy or Black w/ pinstripes. As predicted here, the fit was fantastic, and priced far more competitively than the Zegna. However I have my heart set on a solid Navy suit, and the salesman stated he would have to “order it”, which would take 7 – 8 weeks to get in stock.
He did have a slightly different Navy Canali suit with a more generous cut, along with pants that had a single pleat. He was pushing this suit, saying they could alter it to look like the trimmer cut as well as take the pleat out of the pants. I wasn’t in love with the idea of doing any tailoring beyond basic alterations, so I passed.
He also showed me a few others:
An Armani Collezioni suit which fit well, just not as well as Zegna, Paul Stuart or Canali. I also had to switch to a “Short”.
Next was Ralph Lauren Black Label, which didn’t work at all. Fit was totally off, having to go up two sizes in the jacket as well as switch to a “Short”. Half my wardrobe is RL, so I was surprised the fit was so off.
I walked into the Brioni and Isaia sections, but looking at the prices ( $3K to $5K) I didn’t even bother to try them on.
Corneliani also fit well, but the jacket seemed to be 2 inches too long. It was a more traditional look.
So as it stands now, I’m probably going to go with the Phineas Cole from Paul Stuart unless I can find a Canali in the right color and cut. I still think the Zegna looks best, but honestly it’s just too much money… and that’s before you factor in all the things that go along with it (new shirt, ties, shoes, belt, and sales tax)
RLBL is a very fashion forward cut with a high roped shoulder and narrow chest... I could tell you that if you are the slightest bit barrel chested it wont work. also a single pleat is not necessarily a bad thing. I have some and they are just as slim as my flat front pants. Lastly a ticket pocket is on trend yes, but not trendy.
I'm surprised the Phineas Cole worked and not the RL Black Label.
I would suggest you go to the RL Mansion and try on several of the Blue Label cuts.
He isn't lying. I've had the same thing happen to me. I tried a suit on and fit was nice and everything, but didn't have the color I was looking for. He gave me his card and said he would check and make an order. He called me about 1 hour later telling me he can order my color in and pick it up in a few days. But within an hour I blew my budget at RL, instead. I genuinely gave PS a try that time - hopefully I get a chance to try again, I really enjoyed their store and their suits but was too impatient to wait at the time being.
I am very surprised a RLBL didn't work on you, usually you go up a size and it fits well - and switching to S seems odd as well if you don't regularly wear a S. But I can see how having a big/extruding chest may cause it to fit improperly.
Are you talking by any chance about this suit here or something similar: http://www.paulstuart.com/product_i...MainCatId=14&HEADERMENUID=1&SUBPRODCATID=2152
If yes it would be a quite timeless design (a bit slimmed down from the standard PS cut, but nothing like the fashionable skinny stuff). And don't worry about a ticket pocket - They have been around a very long time and will be around in the future (they are a bit more popular now, but by no means a trendy feature). The one button, peak lapel jackets, on the other hand, are a rather extravagant choice which I would not make unless I already have all the basics covered. So, if this fit you well, I would strongly consider buying it - especially since Paul Stuart is of high quality.
BTW: Generally, I had a positive experience with PS sales people and felt that they push the sale less aggressive than their colleagues at Saks, BB, and other stores. So probably there was really only one left.
Take what Saks sales people tell you with a grain of salt. I always felt that they were trying to talk me into buying something no matter what. However, I am glad the trim Canali cut (this is their main European cut) worked for you. Maybe you should visit their own store at
25 Broad Street
New York, NY 10004
Tel. +1 212 842 8700
before making a decision. They might have a bigger selection than Saks. Oh, there is also a Canali section at Bloomingdales (at leasted there used to be one, but I think they carried mainly the more generous cuts)
Regarding RL: You could also try the blue label stuff, but be warned that at least some of the blue label suits are only half canvassed (meaning there is some fusing or "gluing" involved in the manufacturing process), which is not optimal at a $1000+ price level. The purple label will be beyond your price range.
I'd stay away from Armani (overpriced IMHO) and I guess Corneliani has been disqualified due to fit.
I think that may be it. I'm 100% sure the one in the store was not on sale, and the tagged price was about $1,500. However that one looks just like it.
Zegna suit is not online. I found one that looks like it has the same overall look but it has a single pleat in the pants and is not solid Navy:
$2,500 was what it was retailing for everywhere I've looked.
Yes, that looks like it's it. The price isn't the same, and I'm 100% sure the suit I was looking at was not on sale. However that looks just like it.
^ Well the Phineas Cole suit in the store might be a different fabric from the one on the website. Anyway, it seems to be a good choice, but I'd still have a look at the Canali Store in Downtown!
From my point of view as a Custom tailor why dont you send a picture of yourself, front side and back. You could go shopping and have a friend take pictures of an off the rack suit. This way I could see what fit issues you may have , if you care to look your best.
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