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Buying a new suit. help me out

big balla

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Now that college is almost over for me, I must go through the painful process of finding a job. What that means is that i must trade my usual wardrobe with the likes of a dsquared leather jacket, rogan jeans, adidas sneakers for a suit, oxfords, and a nice haircut.

However, i have no clue about choosing a suit. The only criterias im aware of is that a first suit must be navy or charcoal gray. Also, i made up my mind that i would only buy a canvassed suit.

The other problem lies in choosing a suit that will not compromise my current style at my young age. no offense, but I dont want to look like an investment banker even though i probably will be working in the finance sector.

what im trying to say is that i need to find a suit with modern styling that will not stand out in the office, but not allow me to look like a corporate stiff as well. A suit that i will not look old in (unless I'm able look and dress like clooney, then i dont care). A suit where as soon as i leave the office, im able to remove the tie, remove the top collar button, and hit on women in a nice bar without looking sloppy. A suit where it would look alright if i pair the jacket with a tshirt and jeans (It seems to me that some suits can't really pull off that look).

The labels im considering at the moment are castangia, attolini, barbera, and borelli. They look pretty nice but I have no clue about the styling and drape becasue i havent tried on any of those labels. If you guys have any input on labels and such, feel free to give some advice. i need it.
 

mano

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The suits you mentioned are all extremely high end and expensive. The best bet is to go to different stores and try them, and other suits on. See what looks and feels good and continue to learn about quality on this BB, as salespeople may not be as informed. You may end up spending a fraction of what those suits cost, as you may find you don't need a suit of that calibur at this point in your career. I can almost guarantee that if you wear castangia, attolini, barbera, or borelli, that you will stand out in your office, and as a newbie there, it may actually work against you.

Set your sights at a reasonable level in accordance with your goal: to look good enough to get a job in the financial field while at the same time being satisfied with the style of the suit. If you end up with one of the suits you mentioned, fine, but be realistic about what it is you're trying to accomplish. That kind of focus will also bode well at job interviews.
 

brescd01

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I cannot aggree with Mano's recommendation: those choices are excellent. Go to the stores and try on those brands to determine your size in each and assess the fit. When you have figured it out, you can order a suit from one of those brands from Yoox or Ebay (preferably from either World Class Consignment (Andrew Harris) or World's Finest (Ian Daniels) at very low prices. Go to the best tailor in your city (preferably someone who makes suits custom) and get the suit altered properly, usually the sleeves. Looking well-dressed in a place where you have to wear a suit will not hurt you in any way. Most people's taste is not that that refined so as to notice, except that you are wearing a nice suit that fits.
 

mano

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To ignore how the perceptions of others might affect you is to ignore your own future. Please do yourself a favor and get a clear idea about the dress, values and expectations of those people you intend to work with. If those suits fit in, as I said, fine, if not, you are doing yourself a disservice at the expense of you fashion desires. A wrong-headed choice, IMO.

I have been in a few important situations in which I was regarded negatively for dressing far better than those I was depending upon. For example, while I wear Brioni, Kiton, et. al. when I testify as an expert witness in Federal Court or the Court of Common Pleas, in District Court I'm overdressed and it can be off-putting to a judge at that level. In that setting I dress well, but the high end stuff works against me.

I can give other examples, but you should get the picture.

Fact is, exceptionally well made garments often look exceptional, even to the average person. Believe it or not, the average person may be put off by that. Each work setting has its own culture, and it's your duty to fit in. Once you're hired and established, you can then start to express more individuality.

My taste or that of Dr. Bresch is not what will get you hired, nor will it get you laid after work. You're the one who has to present yourself in the most appropriate manner possible both sartorially and as a person.
 

Thracozaag

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I never play down, talk down, or dress down to the public. Wear what makes you most comfortable in your own skin; be it Borrelli or Banana Republic.

koji
 

STYLESTUDENT

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IWhen you have figured it out, you can order a suit from one of those brands from Yoox or Ebay (preferably from either World Class Consignment (Andrew Harris) or World's Finest (Ian Daniels) at very low prices. Go to the best tailor in your city (preferably someone who makes suits custom) and get the suit altered properly, usually the sleeves. Looking well-dressed in a place where you have to wear a suit will not hurt you in any way. Most people's taste is not that that refined so as to notice, except that you are wearing a nice suit that fits.
I agree with Dr. Bresch on brands, particularly Barbera, and also on the EBay sources with which I have experience and represent excellent values. I also agree with Thracozaag. You and not I have to feel comfortable-it is an intuitive process. No-one else really knows or cares what labels you wear and, from my own experience, a judge does not care either.
 

Phil

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When I graduated college, me and all my friends went through the ageless rite of passage of job interviews. Being 21, I knew very little about suits and the like, just like most of my friends. I had one friend (Chris), however, who was very wealthy, and decided that he would go out and buy a beautiful suit to interview in. I thought it a bit flashy (this was the early 90s, and he bought some armani monstrosity of the era - huge shoulders, etc.). This guy, and another one of our friends interviewed at the same company for a consulting job. The other friend (Jack) ended up getting the job and months later, once he knew the boss better he asked him why he got the job over the armani clad guy (Chris). the boss said simply that he was completely turned off by Chris's fancy suit and thought it was money badly spent. He also thought it was showy for a 21 year old to show up to an interview in a suit that was clearly more expensive than the guy conducting the interview.

I see both sides of the arguement. On one hand, you want to look your best. On the other, you dont want to offend anyone or have them think you are loaded beyond belief and come from a trust fund. Perhaps for the interviewing process you can wear a great suit, but keep it simple with your choice of tie and shirt, etc. That way you just come across as well dressed and subtle. Then once you have a job, you can spruce it up a bit and show off a bit more of your personal style. (on a side note, I have another friend who bought a pair of black shoes for the sole purpose of interviewing for banking positions, since he was told they frown on brown shoes). Once he got the job, he went back to his beloved brown shoes. Ive been in the same position a few times, where I knew I would be around some horrifically dressed people, at a wedding. I chose to simply dress as I always do. I got teased mercilessly by my friends, but didnt regret it one bit.
 

quill

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I think the middle road is indeed best ("all things in moderation").

Bear in mind what fashion is, after all: a chance for men to express themselves in a certain way through clothing. You have to decide what it is you want to express, and how it may be interpreted, or misinterpreted.

As Phil says so nicely, there may be pros and cons to either path you choose. I think any extreme, whether it be perceived as "too flashy" or "not adequate" will invite comments. You have to judge whether the comments will come from a source of power or influence that's important to you, of course.

(Boy, how's THAT for a wishy-washy answer?) Best of luck.
 

proxy1

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With all due respect to the sartorial minds here, we've hijacked this thread to be about the appropriateness of high end suits for a first time suit buyer. big balla did ask about labels and advice. If he's wearing dsquared and rogan, then he's likely comfortable with being flashy and has the cash for an attolini (Holla if I'm wrong, balla).

Anyway, if you have a large budget for a suit, and expect to be working in a place where you'll wear suits often, how bout getting two? That way, you can buy an OTR suit from somewhere more conservative, and maybe something slightly riskier off ebay. Where do you live? Sales and places like filene's basement can score you some pretty high-end stuff (Oxxford comes to mind) for good prices, if you take the time to look.

I second your thought on a navy suit. It's very versatile, and complements almost anything. Even brown shoes. Unless you want to look affected, I would stay away from double breasted, peak lapels, and severe waist suppression (basically rlpl). Maybe go for some subtle details, like a ticket pocket or pick stitched lapels. These all sound like Made-to-measure options, and maybe that's a good option for you, because you can be very specific about what you want, as soon as you figure that out.

I would recommned, if you want a nice OTR suit that won't make you look excessivley dandy: oxxford, zegna, canali, hmmm, I dunno. Go to Neiman Marcus or another high-end dept. store and ask someone there to recommend some pieces. Definitely find a good tailor who can alter the suit competently.

Ok, out of ideas. Should it be noted that this is coming from a 23-yr old who has bought both his suits at filene's?

Woops, I have to rid this computer of proxy1. -shoreman
 

sirgarnetwolseley

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Of the brands you list, my only personal experience is with Attolini. I have a linen and cashmere jacket and it is lovely. It is easily the best constructed and best styled piece of clothing I have ever owned. I think it is too elegant to pair with jeans though.

I have been wearing a suit jacket with jeans quite a bit lately (it was my spring 04 uniform) and I am of the opinion that the only 2 types of suit jackets that go with jeans are either the slim, modern, designer jackets or classic heavy-weight jackets. I've a nice vintage Savile Row 16oz navy chalk-stripe flannel 3-piece suit and the jacket works really well with jeans. I wear slim, untucked french-cuffed dress shirt and either my navy chuck taylors or some slim brown designer running shoes with thin soles (not designed for walking, only cafe-sitting). And to top it off I normally wear a skinny knit-wool tie and a really nice bridle leather skull cuff.
 

sirgarnetwolseley

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It is like a bracelet, but heavy and wide and for a man, with metal skulls on it. It is like, rock & roll meets English leather goods.
 

MilanoStyle

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if you do not care fused suit then i suggest hugo boss einstien or Zegna Z line .. they are affortable look real sharp in bordroom or at the club.
 

Mike C.

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Go with a solid navy Canali suit. It seems the best fit for all your criteria. It's not too flashy, yet not too mundane either.
 

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