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Buttons on big chest

bvbellomo

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Every man wants a big chest, but how do you deal with this button issue? Do I need MTM? This shirt is pretty baggy at the bottom, going up a size looks bad. All my button up shirts have this problem.


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Testudo_Aubreii

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Your chest is too big for that shirt. Look around for RTW cuts with a more generous chest and the same waist measure.

Or, better yet: yes, go MTM. Divij is very good if you're in US and can get to a fitting.
 

bvbellomo

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Yes, I have a closet full just like that, including Natty MTM. I am not a big fan of Natty, but they did much better than anyone else I tried. I can probably fit into my Natty shirts if I diet, but shirts like this one are no good. Most off the rack look really bad at the bottom if the top is big enough.

I never heard of divj, half their locations say "coming soon ". I will check them out if they open.
 

Testudo_Aubreii

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Divij Hemrajani (see MyTailor/Hemrajani Bros. thread) is maybe the MTM shirtmaker most used by SF members in the US. They generally visit most of their named locations four times a year, updating several months out from the visit. They draft your own shirt pattern, so it's higher-end MTM.

A step down from them is self-measuring MTM from Proper Cloth, Luxire, or some of Hemrajani's non-traveling competitors in Hong Kong, like Jantzen Tailor. Though Jantzen's website seems down. You could do a search for Hong Kong shirtmakers.

A step up would be more bespoke makers, who use a test shirt. Like CEGO or Geneva or Ascot Chang in NYC. Or Simone Abbarchi traveling.

You should be able to get a well-fitting, well-made shirt from any of these. Or from a local haberdasher, who uses an MTM service like Individualized Shirts. With the cheaper ones, you do more of the work and usually order more to get the fit right (see the Proper Cloth or Luxire threads for examples). With the more bespoke makers, you pay them to get it right on the first (or, more often, second) try.
 

bvbellomo

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I don't regularly read the forums, but I would have guessed Proper Cloth was the most used. I tried Luxire, Proper Cloth and Natty 5 years ago. Natty is the only one who actually sent me wearable shirts, although I have few left and need to update measurements if I reorder. Luxire sent me 2 shirts that didn't fit, refused to send more or give a refund. Proper Cloth never sent anything but never charged me. Some of this is my fault - I am not a tailor, and measuring yourself is not easy.

I would absolutely use a MTM that measures in person if one were available. I am somewhat suspicious of Divij Hemrajani as more than half their locations say "coming soon".

For casual shirts like the picture, I might get away with a real loose RTW cut, but can probably just wear a t-shirt or henley or sweater in those situations. Thankfully, I am not planning job interviews for 2024 and hopefully won't have any funerals, but if I need to wear a suit, I am counting on my jacket hiding a lot. I do have a nice jacket that fits well.
 

Testudo_Aubreii

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I have about 20 shirts from Hemrajani, based on an in-person fitting. Happy with them. They'll come around to their locations. You can e-mail to inquire about their schedule. Yes, Luxire's system is that you gradually dial in the fit over several orders.

If you want something sooner, you can go to a local haberdasher/clothier, get measured, and order an outside MTM from them. I've had good luck with that. I've even provided my own shirtings. And if you live in or near a big city, there's probably at least one shop that actually makes their own custom shirts.
 

maxalex

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If you’re ever in NYC you can be measured in person at Proper Cloth.
 

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