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Button stance

useless_username

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Is button stance really more of a bespoke consideration? My understanding is that jacket blocks for RTW and MTM are designed with the average man in mind (roughly 180 cm in Europe and North America?). So if you're shorter you'll end up with lower buttoning, and if you're taller, you'll have a higher button stance.

At 188 cm I'm taller than average, with long legs and a proportionate torso. I've bought RTW and MTM suits and jackets from at least five manufacturers (British, American, Italian, Canadian) during the past 10+ years, and all of the jackets have a button stance about 2" above my natural waist. It seems that variables such as brand/design, person doing the measurements, RTW vs MTM, or even the decade when the item was purchased have had no discernible effect on button stance. In the end, I always have roughly the same button stance, that is, slightly above natural waist.

My experience makes me think that unless one opts for bespoke, one will - in practice - have little influence over button stance. I'd be interested to know if this is impression is correct. It would be one less thing to think about!
 

Captain Waffles

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For the top button, sure. I have found that the top button in Samuelsohn suits is 2 inches above my navel (whereas most guides say that it should be at your navel). I am more curious about the bottom button and much higher that should be relative to your trouser line.
 

useless_username

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For the top button, sure. I have found that the top button in Samuelsohn suits is 2 inches above my navel (whereas most guides say that it should be at your navel). I am more curious about the bottom button and much higher that should be relative to your trouser line.

I just re-read your original message and realised that you're mainly talking about the bottom button. But I'm not sure I follow your logic. You'd never close the bottom button, so why would its position matter?

Out of curiosity, might I ask how tall you are?
 

Captain Waffles

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Ahhh...I see, I haven't thought about it like that. Well I guess you are right, it doesn't seem to matter so much now. I can't comment on your experiences with button stances in general.
 

useless_username

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I'm sure there are plenty of people on this forum who feel that the positioning of the bottom button is of absolutely vital importance... But in terms of fit and silhouette, the button you close matters most (i.e. in a 2-button jacket, the top button).
 

Captain Waffles

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Just ordered my first three piece suit from Samuelsohn (first suit ever) through made-to-measure. So nervous about whether it will fit right...

I made the following decisions:

Jacket
-Jacket length is about 3-quarters of an inch or so higher than the standard (though I don't think it is unreasonably short)
-230g (7.5 oz) wool
-110s
-Suede undercollar
-darker lining than suit colour
-imitation surgeon cuffs with overlapping buttons (non-functional); I was told that if you want overlapping buttons that functional cuffs would not be possible
-notch lapel
-double vent
-single chest pocket
-flap pockets

Waistcoat
-V-shape collar area
-no lapels
-5 buttons
-4 welts/pockets (no flap pockets)
 
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