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Button stance moving up this season

Cary Grant

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So I was at Saks yesterday and tried on the new Spring sportcoats from Kiton, Brioni, Oxxford, the Isaiah's made for Saks etc.

Pretty much all of them have moved the button stance up 1/2" or more, the AE says "that's the thing" this year.

Now on long-torso'd me, most RTW is already too high in terms of stance.
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That said, I admit some of the pieces looked "fine" on me...

Anybody else noticing this? Thoughts on how it may date pieces?
 

Nicola

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Pant rise going up to? That was the story I was hearing a few months back. Rises going up.
 

holymadness

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Buttoning point and pant rise tend to mirror the fluctuations of the Dow and the S&P.
 

patrickBOOTH

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Originally Posted by holymadness
Buttoning point and pant rise tend to mirror the fluctuations of the Dow and the S&P.

Haha, there actually is a correlation between the S&P and Dow and how short girl's skirts are. I would have to say correlation does imply causation for that one.
 

Matt S

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Button stances have been going up for the past decade. The 2-button jackets now are pretty much 3-button jackets without the bottom button. And jackets have been getting shorter. Trouser rises have been going down. I'm sure these smaller styles are saving manufacturers a bit of money. I'm 5'9" and I need a 42 L instead of a 40 R in these modern styles. Then I would need a lot of alterations. I've been buying older suits on eBay because these modern suits won't fit me. I'm sure these suits don't fit very many people.
 

Cary Grant

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Coat length was fine on what I tried and fit on 42L's was pretty good considering my monkey arms...

It's an issue of visual balance for me; one that seems accentuated to my eye by my long arms, especially wearing darker colors.
 

yarnsforth

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Originally Posted by Cary Grant
... on long-torso'd me, most RTW is already too high in terms of stance.
+1 though I can deal with a 2-button jacket's lower button being max 1.25" above belt.
 

Matt S

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Originally Posted by yarnsforth
+1 though I can deal with a 2-button jacket's lower button being max 1.25" above belt.

For me, the lower button on a 2-button jacket needs to be below the belt. The top button should be about an inch above the belt. The shirt should not show below the top button.
 

jason.wu.05.09

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Originally Posted by Matt S
For me, the lower button on a 2-button jacket needs to be below the belt. The top button should be about an inch above the belt. The shirt should not show below the top button.

Is this the standard view on button stances? I'm fairly young, just graduated from college, and most of the jackets I've purchased or seen in the last 3-4 years seem to be higher than this. For a 2-button jacket, the first button is probably right over my belly button and about two inches above my belt. I'm not sure whether this is me growing up with this higher-stance trend or whether this is fairly normal.
 

Master-Classter

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^^^ that sounds about right. I like my top (of 2) buttons to be just above my belly button, within say 2 inches, then the bottom button should be around or just above the belt buckle.





I've noticed this trend too of higher button stances and higher rises on pants. It's a retro fashion thing. Not that recent though, at least I've seen it in mainstream stores over the past year at minimum
 

Matt S

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Originally Posted by Master-Classter
^^^ that sounds about right. I like my top (of 2) buttons to be just above my belly button, within say 2 inches, then the bottom button should be around or just above the belt buckle.

It sounds like your trousers are too low or you have a very high belly button. The top button (of 2) should be just above the belt, which should be around the navel.


Originally Posted by Master-Classter
I've noticed this trend too of higher button stances and higher rises on pants. It's a retro fashion thing. Not that recent though, at least I've seen it in mainstream stores over the past year at minimum

I see higher button stances everywhere, but I only see the rise on trousers getting lower. Where have you seen high rise trousers? On most modern suits I see the top button 3 inches above the navel and the bottom 2 inches below. The trousers are low-rise and only reach the bottom button. This results in a disconnect between the jacket and trousers and breaks the flowing lines of a suit.
 

Nicola

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Well the buttoned button (top on a 2 button. Middle on a three) should be at your waist. The same point a normal rise pant should sit. I've had no trouble lately finding jackets that fit that way. OTOH with RTW it depends on how close you match the pattern.
 

Master-Classter

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Originally Posted by Matt S
It sounds like your trousers are too low or you have a very high belly button. The top button (of 2) should be just above the belt, which should be around the navel.

I see higher button stances everywhere, but I only see the rise on trousers getting lower. Where have you seen high rise trousers? On most modern suits I see the top button 3 inches above the navel and the bottom 2 inches below. The trousers are low-rise and only reach the bottom button. This results in a disconnect between the jacket and trousers and breaks the flowing lines of a suit.


I wear my pants probably 1-2 inches below my navel, regular rise, perhaps a little low but not ganster low. I also have a short torso proportionately i guess, but still, you're saying the top button should be at the belt? I don't think so... for me my navels a little higher then between the two buttons, with the bottom button hitting my belt, maybe.

At least in the past year at Club Monaco, which Tom Brown does some design work for so that might explain it, their pants have started getting really really high rises with high button stances as well. Almost unwearably high IMO, very yfyf or mao, I forget which one.
 

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