Button stance, gorge height, lapel width

[Jovan]

I consider myself pretty knowledgable about suits but I'm getting a bit confused with these terms. I've seen button stance and gorge height used almost interchangably, when I thought gorge height referred to how high the notches (or peaks) sit. And how are they measured, anywho? Lapel width... I have no idea where to measure. Or what the term is for the amount of space in the notches. Or for how long the peaks are if that's the case.

"Sharon! I'm so confused!"

 

[Matt]

youre right about gorge height - it is where the notch sits on your shoulder/chest.

Button height pretty obvious. Buttoning point refers to the mid button on a 3b or top button on a 2b.

measuring lapel width im not sure....

 

[Jovan]

Thanks for clarifying. I just want to know all this for when I talk to Raj Bista at Baron Boutique again. I'm thinking of putting away some money to get a summer suit in linen or cotton.

 

[whoopee]

Measure the lapel width at the widest point.

As for the shape of the peaks/notches, I've never heard of them being quantified in measurements. Certain Neapolitan suits have what is termed fish mouth notches. Some suits have a noticeably wider lapel than collar, others less so. Peak lapels, depending on house styles, are also shaped differently. At that point, it is usually up to the tailor's proclivities, but if you were to specify how you like it, use photographic examples. You could also note how upturned, sharp/rounded, etc. you would like them.

 

[Jovan]

Will do, thanks.

 

[Stone]

Slightly short, high gorge, very low button stance jacket. I need to get the sleeves shortened. What do you think of the fit? I like it - seems narrow without being tight or overly shaped - but I need a second opinion.

 

[alliswell]

Lapels are maybe too wide, the skirt is surely too wide and the waist is too. You can fix the waist.

The stance is a deal-breaker. Is the armhole big? Perhaps you can take up the whole thing from the shoulder seam.