Butchering a really expensive suit...need critique and advise

[brooklyncam]

Morning gents,

I have a dilemma which I hope--nay, know you guys can help me with.

I was recently given a fine suit (a charcoal Zenga Su Misura in a Super 120's) that, unfortunately, was not misura-ed for me. It was originally ordered for my slightly larger brother who, thanks to the dissolution of Lehman, no longer wants or needs.

The suit needs to be cut down to fit me, and that's where I'm at an impasse. Is it worth taking to a tailor? Or is the fit so bad that I should just not even bother?

As an experiment, I pinned the back of the suit with clips to get an idea of what the altered suit might look on me. I don't think it looks half bad, but I really need the opinion of a different (and unbiased) set of eyes.

Specifically, I'm most concerned about the shoulders looking too 80's power suit-y and whether the proportions look at all weird. Please disregard the cheap shirt and tie.

Here's a shot with my arms lifted slightly to give you an idea of the current suit shape:

Here's the current suit with my arms at my sides:

Here, I pinned the back of the suit as best as I could--this is leaves me about an inch or so of room if I pull the jacket away from my body. I also "tucked" the sleeves to where it looks correct to me:

Here's a shot with my arms slightly up:

I would really appreciate a critique. If it's unsalvageable, I'm going to post it in the buy and sell forum.

Thanks!

 

[Zenny]

The extreme waist supression makes the shoulders look too wide.

 

[trex]

it is completely possible to get it altered to your fit without much trouble

 

[fcuknu]

whats the over/under before somebody says "its not wort it, its black" or "my condolences for your loss"

 

[Despos]

You need the collar shortened. That is where I would start.

 

[brooklyncam]

Despos, forgive my ignorance, but what would shortening the collar do? I'm assuming it would make the suit fit snugger on my neck, but is there some other flaw that would fix? You said that's where you would start--any other suggestions?

As to the color, the suit is mid to dark gray, but I guess it's reading darker in the photos.

I didn't think the waist suppression was that extreme, but I do have a fairly small waist (29) for my height (5'10). As the jacket is right now, there's enough room to where I could probably wedge in a small melon.

Appreciate the responses so far guys. Please keep them coming.

 

[Despos]

Yes the collar will hug your neck better and it help narrow the shoulder some to keep the proportion better with the tapering of the waist. It will bring the coat "up" on you so it looks more you size.

 

[brooklyncam]

Thank you, Despos. That's not an alteration I would have considered (since I didn't know it was possible).

To your experienced eyes, does the suit look, well, too much like a hand-me-down?

 

[Despos]

Viewing a picture on the internet is not accurate. Take it to a tailor you trust and get his opinions.

 

[brooklyncam]

The tailor I usually go to (for minor things like jean hems) only recommended cinching the waist.

Since I'm not in the habit of having suits altered, I don't yet have a tailor I trust yet.

Anyway, I realize it's impossible to make determinations on fit and whatnot through pictures, but perhaps you have a thought on the silhouette? Too much shoulder, etc.

 

[antirabbit]

A competent tailor can do so much more than you would think.
An amazing tailor, like Mr. Despos, can do miracles....
go find a good tailor.

 

[chorse123]

Originally Posted by brooklyncam

The tailor I usually go to (for minor things like jean hems) only recommended cinching the waist.

Since I'm not in the habit of having suits altered, I don't yet have a tailor I trust yet.

Anyway, I realize it's impossible to make determinations on fit and whatnot through pictures, but perhaps you have a thought on the silhouette? Too much shoulder, etc.

Take it to a better tailor. Did yours not suggest shortening the sleeves?

There is a very long thread somewhere here on alterations tailors in New York. I think it's probably worth the expense if you can afford it. At the very least, you'd have a funeral suit, however macabre that may sound.

 

[SkinnyGoomba]

the shoulders look a hair too big to me, there is a tailor in my area that will do right by that suit, she's not inexpensive, and she's about an hour drive from you.

I'm sure theres a few in NYC that can handle shoulder alterations.

the jacket also looks a hair long, along with the sleeves.

And the waist looks much better after being pinned.

 

[brooklyncam]

Finding a good tailor is the next order of business, guys.

Chorse123, I read through the thread you mentioned--Wilfred seems to be highly regarded on this forum, although I'd see Despos if he were in NYC.

Skinny, an hour outside the city is, alas, out of the question since, like most New Yorkers, I don't have a car.

Oh, and Chorse123, I promise you, it may not look like it on your screen, but the suit is most definitely gray!

 

[brooklyncam]

Forgot to mention that my usual tailor is a nice older Asian gentleman. He does good work, but his idea of what a suit should look like is completely Korean (ie, oversized suit, shiny fabric, much too long sleeves, etc).