But WHY the large armholes??

[The Louche]

This one is for the tailor- and JeffD-types.

We all know that one of the key drawbacks to many OTR coats is large armholes; its universally agreed around here that smaller armholes offer a superior fit and range of motion. So why do many OTR makers cut their armholes large, then? If a smaller armhole is superior, why not employ it? It doesn't seem that there is any obvious cost savings or other corner-cutting associated with the larger armhole. Am I missing something - does it somehow reduce the amount of cloth needed? Is a small armhole only possible via handwork? What gives?

I've been getting MTM for a few years now and no longer have an issue with big armholes, but I've found that they are often the factor that precludes me from buying coats that I find sometimes at bargain prices. Its a bit confusing.

 

[jrd617]

Obesity.

 

[Manton]

Because 99% of guys who try on a RTW coat can fit into a big armhole. The smaller you make it, the more people you exclude.

Also, it's not a common thing, hence men are not used to how it feels. They tend to think it's constricting and uncomfortable and a flaw.

 

[Harold falcon]

I don't think it's just obesity, since any larger suit is going to have proportionally larger armholes anyway. I think the extra large armholes is a comfort thing, as many people find them more comfortable than narrow armholes. As the desire to put comfort first before all other considerations has pretty much invaded every segment of clothing this is the result.

 

[jrd617]

Originally Posted by harvey_birdman

I don't think it's just obesity, since any larger suit is going to have proportionally larger armholes anyway. I think the extra large armholes is a comfort thing, as many people find them more comfortable than narrow armholes. As the desire to put comfort first before all other considerations has pretty much invaded every segment of clothing this is the result.
American sack suit style + obesity

 

[bellyhungry]

Can someone please produce pictures/illustrations of a jacket with large armholes vs. one with small armholes?

Some of the suits I have seen/tried on/own are supposed to have small armholes but I couldn't tell if they are any different OTR suits that are supposed to have 'regular' or large armholes.

Thank you.

 

[Manton]

High armholes:

 

[TRINI]

Originally Posted by Manton

High armholes:

Oh hai, comparable fabric references please.

 

[Manton]

Originally Posted by TRINI

Oh hai, comparable fabric references please.

Argento on Via Filangieri in Naples has two lengths of this fabric. 100 E each.

 

[TRINI]

Originally Posted by Manton

Argento on Via Filangieri in Naples has two lengths of this fabric. 100 E each.
Thanks! Ok, now who's gonna proxy these for me?

 

[jefferyd]

Originally Posted by Manton

Because 99% of guys who try on a RTW coat can fit into a big armhole. The smaller you make it, the more people you exclude.

Also, it's not a common thing, hence men are not used to how it feels. They tend to think it's constricting and uncomfortable and a flaw.

This.

And this

Originally Posted by Romualdo

... In addition to the hand work, I have a true testimonial to back up the fit. The first two coats I sold this past weekend were size 46 and 48. They fit perfect! If you can fit the big boys, you can fit anyone.

Read that again, as it is indicative of American retailing

Originally Posted by Romualdo

If you can fit the big boys, you can fit anyone.

If those coats (which were made by Crittenden) had small armholes, he would have likely lost the sale and placed an angry call to the manufacturer. If I try to raise the armhole by so much as 1/2" I get calls right away complaining about it. I have NEVER had a call from a retailer complaining about low armholes. I have to do what the retailer wants me to.

 

[cptjeff]

Easier for people to put on, even if it's more restrictive when wearing. And yes, fat people. Everything in the US is cut to fit the largest members of our society. Even things in size small are cut like tents these days.

 

[jefferyd]

Originally Posted by Manton

Argento on Via Filangieri in Naples has two lengths of this fabric. 100 E each.

So are you going to have your sleeves recut?

 

[jefferyd]

Originally Posted by The Louche

... its universally agreed around here that smaller armholes offer a superior fit and range of motion. So why do many OTR makers cut their armholes large, then?

Oh, and since when does that which is universally agreed upon on SF have anything to do with the real world? The top suit brand is Hugo Boss and the top-selling colour is black. Just sayin.

 

[Manton]

Originally Posted by jefferyd

So are you going to have your sleeves recut?

I was tempted. Passed. I could still have Mina buy it for me I guess.

I laughed out loud when I saw that cloth in the shop window.