Buffalo cobbler - Brian Gavigan - Sole Man

[suitforcourt]

Sending a pair of shell Florsheim to Brian from Sole Man in Buffalo NY.

The soles are in ok condition, but the leather heels are rotting away. Will be getting JR soles, cat paw heels, and a topy set.

 

[WildeMan]

You don't say whether you're picking them up in Buffalo or having them sent back by courier.

If it's the latter, make sure he makes it clear on the customs form that they are used shoes after repair. I was charged duty (on shoes I already owned!) from CRA when Alden sent them back via UPS after recrafting. I thought about fighting it but frankly didn't think I could justify the time it would take to take explain it to CRA. (And who knows? Maybe there is duty assessed on shoe repairs.)

Good luck.

WM

 

[suitforcourt]

You don't say whether you're picking them up in Buffalo or having them sent back by courier.

If it's the latter, make sure he makes it clear on the customs form that they are used shoes after repair. I was charged duty (on shoes I already owned!) from CRA when Alden sent them back via UPS after recrafting. I thought about fighting it but frankly didn't think I could justify the time it would take to take explain it to CRA. (And who knows? Maybe there is duty assessed on shoe repairs.)

Good luck.

WM

Thanks so much for the heads up!

I use a service called Cross Border Pick Up. My stuff is mailed to a US address and then taken across border. I always pay taxes.

For this pair, I provided a mailing label, indicating they are used shoes that are now repaired. Hopefully it won't be an issue!

 

[suitforcourt]

You don't say whether you're picking them up in Buffalo or having them sent back by courier.

If it's the latter, make sure he makes it clear on the customs form that they are used shoes after repair. I was charged duty (on shoes I already owned!) from CRA when Alden sent them back via UPS after recrafting. I thought about fighting it but frankly didn't think I could justify the time it would take to take explain it to CRA. (And who knows? Maybe there is duty assessed on shoe repairs.)

Good luck.

WM

I have only used one manufacturer recraft service - Church's. Never again. Expensive and not worth it.

Do you have a Canadian cobbler you like? I have several across the country - Sudbury, Vancouver, and Thunder Bay.

The Toronto area doesn't have any that can do the work I need.

 

[WildeMan]

The best work I ever saw was from someone you used --- in Montreal, I think?

But I get the sense that you really enjoy trying different cobblers, as a hobby in and of itself. Whereas for me, it's just drudgery to extend the life of the shoes. And my work takes me to factory floors, refineries, commercial laundries, etc.
So it's pretty difficult to get a case of the la-di-das about my shoes.

I've been very satisfied with Alden restoration, but the freight both ways, plus the US $175 cost, gets the total to almost $250. For $100-150 more, I can get new Alden Factory Seconds from The Shoe Mart, or Peal and Co shoes from the BB website (if there are extra discounts at checkout).

WM

 

[suitforcourt]

The best work I ever saw was from someone you used --- in Montreal, I think?

But I get the sense that you really enjoy trying different cobblers, as a hobby in and of itself. Whereas for me, it's just drudgery to extend the life of the shoes. And my work takes me to factory floors, refineries, commercial laundries, etc.
So it's pretty difficult to get a case of the la-di-das about my shoes.

I've been very satisfied with Alden restoration, but the freight both ways, plus the US $175 cost, gets the total to almost $250. For $100-150 more, I can get new Alden Factory Seconds from The Shoe Mart, or Peal and Co shoes from the BB website (if there are extra discounts at checkout).

WM

Laurent Halimi from Montreal. Great work, but expensive.

Yeah, I like trying different cobblers but have my favourites for sure.

I agree about seconds or even finding a decent used pair Vs price of recrafting. Most of my shoes are vintage and no longer made. So well worth the price of a rebuild.

 

[suitforcourt]

Just got off the phone with Brian. What a true artisan and gentleman. My initial thoughts:

1. JR sole;
2. Sole protector like a topy;
3. Completely new heel block and top lift.

Brian's view:

1. No need for JR soles as a topy would negate the durability issues. He recommended his house leather, which saves me $50;
2. He has a preferred brand called SVIG and uses it for most dress shoes;
3. The heel block made of leather, looks good. If it needs replacing, he will. If not, just new top lift. Saves me a bunch of money.

4. Brian also recommended a natural sole edge (cordovan in colour) to give the shoe a different look. The sole edge is black right now.

I look forward to finalizing my instructions and receiving the final product. Brian had every opportunity to up sell or agree to do the original requests and make more money off me. But a true artist wouldn't do that.

 

[suitforcourt]

Update: I asked for a purple welt, just to shake things up. Repair should be completed this week!

Too bad I can't attach the video. The final result looks really good.

 

[M635Guy]

That guy is super-skilled.

 

[suitforcourt]

That guy is super-skilled.

Have you used Brian before?

 

[suitforcourt]

That guy is super-skilled.

 

[M635Guy]

Have you used Brian before?

No - that's just clearly nice work

 

[SonnyUte]

Update: I asked for a purple welt, just to shake things up. Repair should be completed this week!

Too bad I can't attach the video. The final result looks really good.

View attachment 1146367

View attachment 1146368

View attachment 1146369

View attachment 1146370

View attachment 1146371

View attachment 1146372

So how does one keep the welting stitching purple, i.e. keep black polish of the welt stitching?

 

[suitforcourt]

So how does one keep the welting stitching purple, i.e. keep black polish of the welt stitching?

I rarely use colour polish/cream.

But I know some gents put tape over the welt area before polishing.

I mostly apply conditioner which should not change the colour. If it does, @Thomas Crown has this great method of using an electric tooth brush to clean the welt area.

 

[suitforcourt]

The final product!

Everything flush. Purple stitching as requested. The colour is actually more of a dark brown.

Brian even threw in a set of vintage Florsheim shoe bags.