Brown suede shoes

[JohnMS]

Seems that most makers have a version of a chocolate or snuff suede shoe they sell in split toe, monk, etc.

Jun Kawana had commented once to me to look for cape buck suede. Is anyone aware of a maker that still uses cape buck? I see Church's offers some models, but I haven't heard glowing reports on Church's shoes lately (my pairs are several years old, pre-Prada).

Could someone comment on Allen Edmonds' and Alden quality of suede as well as some of the English makers?

Thanks.

 

[bengal-stripe]

Most suede today is "reversed calf"; calf leather that has been buffed on the flesh side to give that velvety suede look. Originally it is the leather from genuine game animals like red deer (stag), antelope (cape buck) or the chamois.

Church's still offer a few models in cape buck; Edward Green has small quantities of stag for special orders. Although I have (a rather old Church's pair in cape buck) I cannot see a difference between calf-suede and game-suede. Other people, who know more about leather, probably can.

Of course the terms for game leather are still used, although the actual skin might be sourced elsewhere. Your "white bucks" will not come from a cape buck, the "chamois" for washing the window will not be the leather of a chamois and in German the term "Wildleder" (game-leather) is used as a generic term for all suede.