1. Styleforum Gives - Holiday Charity Auction 11: Any Three (3) Customized Ties from Vanda Fine Clothing

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    The 11th auction of the year is for any three customized ties from Vanda Fine Clothing. Please bid often and generously here

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BrooksCool Update

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by johnnynorman3, Apr 13, 2005.

  1. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Distinguished Member

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    I stopped by Brooks Brothers today -- ended up picking up two tropical weight flat front trousers for $200 total by taking advantage of the Make a Wish sale and the stock up special on pants (side note: the $148 trousers I bought had Loro Piana Super 110s tags in them; the $198 trousers were Loro Piana Super 120s -- this does not warrant a $50 difference per pair IMO) (second side note: the Peal shoes are really nice).

    I checked out the BrooksCool suits finally. Same as last year, except they apparently don't have a mohair content (according to the Web): Made in China, but fully canvassed. Nice button stances -- the two button is about 1/2" above the navel, the three button isn't high, so it looks very nice when the top button is left undone. Very light weight -- not only the fabric, but also the guts. It still uses more padding than, say, a typical Isaia -- but it's not a lot. Narrower shoulders than typical BB, which is consistent with the lightness of the coat overall. At only $450 during a 25% sale (another Friends and Family is at the end of the month, BTW, I was told), it's a good deal if you need a summer suit.

    Now the bad part. I'm still not overly impressed with the patented fabric. Then again, I'm not a huge fan of tropical wool suiting to begin with. It's great outdoors for sure, but aren't we normally in an air conditioned building during the day? Basically, the major problem I have with the fabric is that it is "dull" at the same time that it's a bit shiny. Sort of a paradox. But the plain fabric just doesn't pop very much, and the patterned fabrics are just a bit lame. I guess my concern would be that it just looks like a cheap suit -- like something that Jones New York would put out. Then again, I feel this way about virtually all tropical wool.

    I have no experience wearing tropical wool, and indeed no experience dealing with humidity while wearing a suit. I'd love to know how a 9 oz. Italian fabric would compare in terms of summer performance to a tropical wool whose weave is significantly looser.
     


  2. Horace

    Horace Distinguished Member

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    I saw some of the really light weight suits at Brooks. Apparently they weren't the Brookscool because they had Made in USA/Union labels in them.

    I've had tropical weight (8oz) British wool suits made up by Southwick MTM. The (then?) full-canvas construction somewhat negated their usefulness in New England summers. I've also had tropical weight wool trousers made up in HK at Sam's.
     


  3. boston

    boston Senior Member

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    I had some trousers made of Loro Piano Tazmania wool. Charcoal grey with a white beaded pin-stripe.

    Tropical wool has a very very dry hand and usually a tight weave meaning that it is very "springy". a jacket made out of it would probably not sit still and jump all over the place. So, no drape to speak of, but I don't think the wool itself looks bad, just different.

    -boston
     


  4. Horace

    Horace Distinguished Member

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    Bean,

    what's "a dry hand" mean related to cloth?
     


  5. retronotmetro

    retronotmetro Distinguished Member

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    I finally got a look at the BrooksCool as well. I basically concur with Johnny's assessment. The suits are a wool/polyester/mohair/lycra blend per the label, and I think they are decently constructed. The fabric is very light (you can see light shining through the unlined portions when you hold it up) but it has no zing to it--it's kind of flat and uninteresting looking. I don't think it has an obvious "cheap suit" look, but you definitely won't confuse it with your higher end 130s.

    I need a wool summer suit so I may end up getting one in plain navy, which seemed to be the best looking of the fabrics.
     


  6. lisapop

    lisapop Senior Member

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    Joe Morgan showed me some amazing Summer-weight cloth from Scabal that impressed me: Ultra high-twist worsted wool that is 8 or 9 ounces and absolutely does not wrinkle, crinkle, or crumple no matter how hard one tries. Only "wrinkle" is I don't have the name of the cloth, though a Scabal representative would.
    Grayson
     


  7. Fritz

    Fritz Senior Member

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    Perhaps Scabal S 100 Performance?
     


  8. boston

    boston Senior Member

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    "a dry hand" means that when you touch the cloth it feels -- well, dry and hard. It's like the opposite of flannel, which has a very soft hand.

    -boston
     


  9. lisapop

    lisapop Senior Member

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    Just checked and the Scabal cloth alluded to is "Supertronic". Sounds like an advanced space craft, but it is super cloth.
    Grayson
     


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