Brooks Golden Fleece vs. Spier & Mackay?

[Enox]

Anybody have any insight into the quality of a Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece suit? I have the option to pick up any I want for $432.

I don't have a gray suit currently and was debating between a traditional charcoal https://www.brooksbrothers.com/Golden-Fleece®-Regent-Fit-Two-Button-Suit/MK01011,default,pd.html?dwvar_MK01011_Color=DGRY&contentpos=1&cgid=0216
or something from Spier & Mackay: https://www.spierandmackay.com/guabello-gray-shadow-check-120-s.html?fee=8&fep=30153 for about $280 on sale.

I like the pattern of the S&M more, as I find the standard navy and charcoal suits quite boring, but my only other suit is a navy prince of wales, and I feel as though I'd be remiss in not having at least one very conservative suit. This is also the only gray BBGF suit they offer with double vents.

The BB will also require more alterations as I'm a 9" drop so will need to get the pants taken in 3" (waist, seat, and leg taper, which my tailor has no trouble doing, but will also cost more). Anyone have any thoughts as to whether the quality and full-canvassing is worth the price jump?

The shoulders and chest fit fine, S&M is definitely the better OTR fit. All I need is to take in the sides, shorten the sleeves and hem the pants. For the BBGF I’ll need to make the same alterations to the jacket plus shorten the jacket slightly, and BB said the pants will likely require a recut as the waist, seat, thigh, and leg taper will all need to be redone.

 

[Phileas Fogg]

BB Golden Fleece is their top of the line. Fully canvassed and typically with more premium fabrics.
These range around $2k to $2.5k depending on fabrics, so for that price a good value. If you’re buying from BB they will do the alterations but for a fee.

I cannot speak to Spier & MacKay as I don’t own any.

 

[Sfroide3]

Quality is night and day. BB is expensive but very often on sale. Golden Fleece is either italian made or us made. Top quality fabric. Spier n Mackay is entry level suit imported with basic fabrics.

The BB suit you linked is not charcoal. It's a very sad grey and pattern. If you have the choice I d pick something more interesting in terms of fabric. If you can have a BB golden fleece suit for 432 usd I wouldn't hesitate a second.

 

[Sfroide3]

Golden Fleece® Regent Fit Micro-Plaid Suit - Brooks Brothers

100% wool woven in Italy. Regent fit. Two-button with center vent and flat-front trouser. This suit has full canvas construction and features hand sewn armholes for added comfort and movement. Fully lined. Dry clean. Made at our own factory in the USA from imported materials.

www.brooksbrothers.com

Business proof and a little more interesting pattern.

Way nicer:

Golden Fleece® BrooksCloud™ Medium Grey Plaid Suit

Brooks Brothers

www.brooksbrothers.com

A little less formal

It depends on where you work and if you already have a very formal suit if you need to wear one for some meetings or other events.

 

[compuccesory]

Anybody have any insight into the quality of a Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece suit? I have the option to pick up any I want for $432.

I don't have a gray suit currently and was debating between a traditional charcoal https://www.brooksbrothers.com/Golden-Fleece®-Regent-Fit-Two-Button-Suit/MK01011,default,pd.html?dwvar_MK01011_Color=DGRY&contentpos=1&cgid=0216
or something from Spier & Mackay: https://www.spierandmackay.com/guabello-gray-shadow-check-120-s.html?fee=8&fep=30153 for about $280 on sale.

I like the pattern of the S&M more, as I find the standard navy and charcoal suits quite boring, but my only other suit is a navy prince of wales, and I feel as though I'd be remiss in not having at least one very conservative suit.

The BB will also require more alterations as I'm a 9" drop so will need to get the pants taken in 3" (waist, seat, and leg taper, which my tailor has no trouble doing, but will also cost more). Anyone have any thoughts as to whether the quality and full-canvassing is worth the price jump?

It's obviously going to depend on fit. If you are a 9" drop then I suspect that BB will not be a good fit. Aside from the huge drop difference BB suits are IMO styled for people with slim to average shoulders. Wide or bulky shoulders don't look good in any BB cut. BB is going to be generally more expensive for the quality offered because they have a lot of brick and mortar stores they have to keep up. If there is a store near you then you can go and try out the fit, so if that's worth it to you then pay the premium.

I don't own any SM so I can't comment on quality but they do offer full canvas now too for around the $500-$600 price point before discounts.

 

[breakaway01]

I have both BBGF (when it was made by Martin Greenfield, no longer) and Spier and Mackay. The BBGF suit is very well made. That being said, I would put fit above construction. If the BBGF fits you well then I’d go for it. I would stay pretty conservative personally (solid medium grey or navy). Not sure about the “Brookscloud” BBGF suit that was posted above—the statement that internal structural components were removed seems suspicious to me.

 

[Enox]

I have both BBGF (when it was made by Martin Greenfield, no longer) and Spier and Mackay. The BBGF suit is very well made. That being said, I would put fit above construction. If the BBGF fits you well then I’d go for it. I would stay pretty conservative personally (solid medium grey or navy). Not sure about the “Brookscloud” BBGF suit that was posted above—the statement that internal structural components were removed seems suspicious to me.

The shoulders and chest fit fine, S&M is definitely the better OTR fit. All I need is to take in the sides, shorten the sleeves and hem the pants. For the BBGF I’ll need to make the same alterations to the jacket plus shorten the jacket slightly, and BB said the pants will likely require a recut as the waist, seat, thigh, and leg taper will all need to be redone.

 

[Enox]

I have both BBGF (when it was made by Martin Greenfield, no longer) and Spier and Mackay. The BBGF suit is very well made. That being said, I would put fit above construction. If the BBGF fits you well then I’d go for it. I would stay pretty conservative personally (solid medium grey or navy). Not sure about the “Brookscloud” BBGF suit that was posted above—the statement that internal structural components were removed seems suspicious to me.

The shoulders and chest fit fine, S&M is definitely the better OTR fit. All I need is to take in the sides, shorten the sleeves and hem the pants. For the BBGF I’ll need to make the same alterations to the jacket plus shorten the jacket slightly, and BB said the pants will likely require a recut as the waist, seat, thigh, and leg taper will all need to be redone.

 

[Enox]

Quality is night and day. BB is expensive but very often on sale. Golden Fleece is either italian made or us made. Top quality fabric. Spier n Mackay is entry level suit imported with basic fabrics.

The BB suit you linked is not charcoal. It's a very sad grey and pattern. If you have the choice I d pick something more interesting in terms of fabric. If you can have a BB golden fleece suit for 432 usd I wouldn't hesitate a second.

Thanks for the reply. I agree with the fabric comment. Unfortunately it’s the only BBGF suit in a gray fabric they offer with side vents

 

[Sfroide3]

Thanks for the reply. I agree with the fabric comment. Unfortunately it’s the only BBGF suit in a gray fabric they offer with side vents

I didn't notice that first when I linked the suit.

 

[composite]

I have both BBGF (when it was made by Martin Greenfield, no longer) and Spier and Mackay. The BBGF suit is very well made. That being said, I would put fit above construction. If the BBGF fits you well then I’d go for it. I would stay pretty conservative personally (solid medium grey or navy). Not sure about the “Brookscloud” BBGF suit that was posted above—the statement that internal structural components were removed seems suspicious to me.

What on Earth does "internal structural components were removed" mean? I guess when "fused" is equated with "cheap" while "canvassed" suits are associated with nicer suits, why would Brooks Brothers imply that their top end suits are fused?

Could the phrase mean something else?

 

[Sfroide3]

It means it's a jacket without canvas. Probably very little or no padding on the shoulders.

 

[Phileas Fogg]

It means it's a jacket without canvas. Probably very little or no padding on the shoulders.

I cannot believe that such a suit from BB would retail for that much. Let alone even the sale price.

I wouldn’t put it past an enthusiastic copy writer who thought inserting “internal structural components” sounded sexier than unlined. Perhaps they get paid by the word. It wouldn’t be the first time BB has made an error in their online representation.

I have a few Paul Stuart / Phineas Cole suits that are unlined but otherwise canvassed.

 

[Sfroide3]

I cannot believe that such a suit from BB would retail for that much. Let alone even the sale price.

I wouldn’t put it past an enthusiastic copy writer who thought inserting “internal structural components” sounded sexier than unlined. Perhaps they get paid by the word. It wouldn’t be the first time BB has made an error in their online representation.

I have a few Paul Stuart / Phineas Cole suits that are unlined but otherwise canvassed.

Unlined doesn't mean there is no canvas. That's why they don't say that ... It's wrong to think that price is linked with canvas, padding, etc. Price is usually linked to fabric quality - rarity, quality of manufacture, handmade operations, etc.

 

[breakaway01]

Entirely possible that the Brookscloud suit is unstructured. But ask yourself what the internal components of a suit are for -- there is a reason why most tailored jackets have structure (chest and lapel padding, canvas, etc). Structure is necessary to make the lapel roll on a tailored jacket, for example, and to support the jacket fronts. Most unstructured jackets are on the casual end of the spectrum because the lack of structure in a jacket makes it look more slouchy and casual. I have not run into an unstructured business suit -- have to wonder whether any fusing is used to give the fabric at least some support.