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Does this mean that Martin Greenfield is going to have some excess capacity some time soon?
I was always suspicious as some folks here on SF rabidly held them up as the best American tailoring but I’ve never actually seen their stuff. Maybe they were on top of their game back in the day when the founder was still making bespoke suits for Colin Powell and such?
I seem to recall reading that they make stuff for Brooklyn Tailors? I do remember they used to make Golden Fleece for Brooks Brothers but got fired. Remember when a pile of relabeled BBGFs hit the secondary markets about a decade ago? Apparently customers were starting to complain about quality and Brooks pulled them all out of the stores, put new labels in the had the GF removed, and sent them to Marshall’s and such.
If I remember correctly they switched labels and put in new ones of the same size but with “Golden Fleece” removed. It still said Brooks Brothers but had an empty space where the GF used to be.I have one BBGF suit. I purchased it about 12-13 years ago; a 3 to 2 roll with dual vents. I lost some weight a few years Later and so took it in for a tune up (this is still when they employed actual tailors in their shops).
A few weeks later the garment was ready. I went and picked it up, tried it on and BOOM! It fit well.
into the closet it went. About 6 months later I took it out to wear and notice the GF label had been removed from the jacket. I didn’t know what to make of it. For a while I thought maybe it had never been there. It didn’t really matter as the jacket fit and that’s all that mattered.
Reading your post, I wonder if this was part of that transition.
No idea.Are they still the $1.5k MtM?
If I remember correctly they switched labels and put in new ones of the same size but with “Golden Fleece” removed. It still said Brooks Brothers but had an Emory space where the GF used to be.
I have one left. A staple mid-gray GF MTM that I wear constantly (or at least did before CV). Amazing VBC fabric and fits well in the Fitzgerald cut.It’s not a bad suit. OTR and got it for 50% off. This is when BBGF went for $1600. It’s nothing special, but not bad. Not sure I would have paid full fare.
BB had long fallen in the esteem of many picky buyers; that seems evident.
I think that if the new owners of the brand retreated to a handful of stores (perhaps just the main NYC one) as a sort of destination shop and supplemented that with healthy e-commerce they could make a go at reinstating, as a very niche brand, the 1960s “mass Ivy” style and just stick with that to an almost conservationist degree. I think there are enough hard core Ivy aficionados to keep that going. As to the demise of formal tailoring, there are plenty of less formal garments in the Ivy canon.
I doubt that will happen. I imagine there will be a sharp but not as severe retrenchment but that they will continue to try being versatile, IOW little USP.
the NYC store as a destination sounds like a tough sell. Paul Stuart is a block away and there are tons of other high end men’s store just up the street.