Brogues

[cerneabbas]

I have the Hoggs veldtschoen shoe and I really like it. No issues with putting it on or taking it off as it is a shoe. The shoe is a G width.

That made me think about a boot. I did not like the look of speed lacing. So I took a gamble the 9 hole Cheaney on sale. I cannot see any clues on the codes which might identify a makers last for the shoe. I think I read somewhere that the Hoggs boot is also made by Cheaney but I don’t know if that is true. If it is the same last as the Pennine it would still not suit my high instep but might be easier to put on/take off.

In their latest catalogue they have a shoe called the Dornoch,its a grain leather quarter brogue Derby,it doesnt have a Commmando sole but it says wide fit,made in Britain,it looks like a Cheaney Tenterden.

I dont like speed hooks but if its just the top few they dont show under your trousers so it wouldnt be a deal breaker for me.

The Hoggs of Fife Rhannoch interests me as an outdoor boot (my last 2 pairs of walking boots have been Lowa).
I read a book recently about the Falklands war and it mentions the problems with the issue DMS boot,I remember for a few years after there was a lot of talk about which boots were best for the Army.
I wonder what the Rhannoch would be like as a walking boot ? it looks quite heavy,I know that its water resistant and I like the idea of a non Goretex lined leather boot.
Price is an issue too,for the price of one pair of Rhannochs I can get 3 pairs of Lowa.

btw Hoggs of Fife also have a Wooly Pully called the Falkland,it has the suede patches,only one colour Olive / Brown marl.

 

[cerneabbas]

I have Cheaney and C and J loafers in grain leather.
Then I got a pair of loafers from Morjas that were far and away the best fitting loafers I’ve ever tried. They were supposed to be burgundy grain and I was expecting them to be a similar colour to the boots above but when they arrived they were almost black so I sent ‘em back. Too bad. I got an email from them recently as they are doing grain loafers again in black and brown. Once again the brown is barely distinguishable from black so I guess they still haven’t learned.

A Fine pair of shoes has a good selection of Berwick 1707 shoes in grain leather, Apron Gibsons,Brogues and a plain shoe and cap toe boots,they also have some grain boots by Carlos Santos that I would like to see in the flesh.

 

[Thin White Duke]

Those leather short boots (with puttees!) nearly lost us the falklands war due to trench foot. Our lads were nicking the boots off dead argentinians as they had much better (and higher) boots than ours.
I was in college soon after and a load of lads joined the weekend warriors army OTC and they all got new tall black leather boots with rubber commando soles, so it didn’t take long for the changes to be made.
I’m not sure what the British Army use now. Here in America they use suede / goretex boots so I guess all the techniques of getting a spit shine in training are no longer relevant!

 

[mak1277]

A Fine pair of shoes has a good selection of Berwick 1707 shoes in grain leather, Apron Gibsons,Brogues and a plain shoe and cap toe boots,they also have some grain boots by Carlos Santos that I would like to see in the flesh.

These are high on my wish list.

Carlos Santos Brogue Boot in Guimaraes Grain

DISCONTINUED Stunning wingtip brogue boot by Carlos Santos. Produced in gorgeous guimaraes patina grain with goodyear welted dainite rubber sole. 333 last - soft, round toe country shape. Fits true to size, take one full size down from US size. Supplied in high quality box with black boot bags...

www.afinepairofshoes.co.uk

 

[cerneabbas]

Those leather short boots (with puttees!) nearly lost us the falklands war due to trench foot. Our lads were nicking the boots off dead argentinians as they had much better (and higher) boots than ours.
I was in college soon after and a load of lads joined the weekend warriors army OTC and they all got new tall black leather boots with rubber commando soles, so it didn’t take long for the changes to be made.
I’m not sure what the British Army use now. Here in America they use suede / goretex boots so I guess all the techniques of getting a spit shine in training are no longer relevant!

THe odd thing is that the Army had been wearing the DMS boot for 20 years before the Falklands war.
Training on Dartmoor,Bodmin Moor,Brecon Beacons and in Germany wet and muddy conditions meant that the faults of the DMS boot must have been well known, of course when the press got to witness the problems in the Falklands it became an issue.
I suppose that choosing a boot for thousands of people is going to be largely down to cost,I think that some soldiers or Marines wore walking boots that they had bought themselves.

 

[cerneabbas]

These are high on my wish list.

Carlos Santos Brogue Boot in Guimaraes Grain

DISCONTINUED Stunning wingtip brogue boot by Carlos Santos. Produced in gorgeous guimaraes patina grain with goodyear welted dainite rubber sole. 333 last - soft, round toe country shape. Fits true to size, take one full size down from US size. Supplied in high quality box with black boot bags...

www.afinepairofshoes.co.uk

Thats them,they do look nice ,more streamlined than my Barkers.

 

[Thin White Duke]

THe odd thing is that the Army had been wearing the DMS boot for 20 years before the Falklands war.
Training on Dartmoor,Bodmin Moor,Brecon Beacons and in Germany wet and muddy conditions meant that the faults of the DMS boot must have been well known, of course when the press got to witness the problems in the Falklands it became an issue.
I suppose that choosing a boot for thousands of people is going to be largely down to cost,I think that some soldiers or Marines wore walking boots that they had bought themselves.

Yeah I remember being out camping in the lakes once and there were some lads camped not far from us. They were army lads on a break. I asked how come they weren’t using any of their issue gear as I would have though that military kit was designed with outdoor living in mind and they all laughed and said the craphats were still designing gear with the parade ground in mind and it was all inferior to civilian gear when used ‘on the hill’.
Same way the US was sending lads out to fight the gulf war wearing jungle green camo as if they were still in Vietnam!
In Bravo Two Zero McNabb notes that they usually kitted themselves out in their own gear rather than regulation kit, and usually had the freedom to do so. They called it ‘Gucci’ and admired Chris Ryan (‘The One That Got Away’) for his Gucci boots which ironically caused him such discomfort on his run for freedom that he could barely walk for weeks!

 

[cerneabbas]

These are Berwick 1707,they both have Dainite soles,the more I look at them I fancy the plain version...
I do like the Brogues (of course) a Commando soled version would be good imo.

 

[cerneabbas]

Grenson Archie,grain leather and Commando sole, I like these but imo the Berwick 1707 black grain would look better.

 

[Swampster]

Truckers Ilkley - Zug with leather sole. Finally starting to break in. Built not like a Sherman tank - more like a Sturmtiger.

 

[cerneabbas]

View attachment 1467910 Truckers Ilkley - Zug with leather sole. Finally starting to break in. Built not like a Sherman tank - more like a Sturmtiger.

Just the thing for an Autumn day and the Commando sole is surprisingly comfortable.

 

[Luigi_M]

Excellent thread! Subscribed of course.

 

[cerneabbas]

I have contacted 'A fine pair of shoes' asking if the Berwick 1707 black grain Brogues were available with a Commando sole, the reply was that Berwick would need a minimum order of sixpairs.
I would have thought that was worth a try for AFPOS, I would definitely have one pair,surely they would sell another five pairs ?...still they know their business best.

 

[Luigi_M]

Fratelli Rossetti, black bookbinder, blake stitched, with Vibram commando sole.

Not sure if SF approved, but I like their chunkiness and, besides, in the last ten years they have been my go-to shoes for rainy days when a black shoe is required.

 

[cerneabbas]

Fratelli Rossetti, black bookbinder, blake stitched, with Vibram commando sole.
View attachment 1469509
Not sure if SF approved, but I like their chunkiness and, besides, in the last ten years they have been my go-to shoes for rainy days when a black shoe is required.

Although I prefer a Derby to Oxfords I really find the shape of these excellent.
Fratelli Rossetti are very rare here and expensive.